Tiguan :: Flashing Map Light Bulbs Flicker On And Off?
Nov 28, 2012
I have a 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg 4Motion. A few weeks ago I swapped all the interior + License bulbs to LEDs. They were suppose to be error free but found out they were not since the map lights would flicker on and off even in the off position.
Removed all the bulbs and replaced them with the OEM incandescent ones and still the same issue. The bulbs in the map lights would flicker on an off. How I can fix?
Already took the Tiguan to the dealer and they scanned it for codes and nothing. Of course when I was there the lights worked perfectly fine.
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I just put in my LED kit and no matter what polarity I try the front and rear domes are faint and flicker when turned on by a door opening. They work fine when turned on by the dome switches. I did the rear domes first and after some switching of bulbs they started to work. I went and did the front domes and again after some switching they seemed to work, but now they're acting up again when I open a door.
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Today was the worst weather ever since the Tiguan left the factory, it was -10˚C and it was parked outside.
When I turned the car on, the coolant light was flashing with a beeping sound. The indicator was acting normally and it stopped in the middle as usual when I drove about 8KM.
I then stopped and turned the car OFF and then ON after a few minutes and it was gone.
I searched and many people said something about topping up the coolant fluid. To me, this doesn't make sense because it only happened to them and I when the weather was cold.
Is there anything to worry about? the car is still new with 12,xxxKM.
Here is an image ...
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I have been reading threads all day. Noone seems to have exactly the same issue so I'm just looking for some clarification. Turn signals dont work but lights work as "parking lamps" and internal climate lights are not illuminating either. Also, my blinkers making the clicking noise but much faster when the turn signal bulbs are not flashing. I had a radio issue but that is resolved. Where do I start? Do I go right for the hazard relay? I read somewhere there was an ignition relay that could potentially be causing all of this?
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So I finally got to drive my Tig 4Mo in the snow for the first time and I had some really interesting experiences. On 4 separate occasions the rear end decided to just break loose on me!
The first time I was going downhill and I had the car in auto stick and kept it in 2nd so I wouldn't have to use the brakes and im rolling along the rear starts swinging left! I counter and recover and thought ok well maybe auto stick isn't good in the snow. So I keep it in "D" for the rest of the drive and I'm chugging along no faster than 25 mph on a flat and there she goes again to the right this time... I let off the gas and counter again this time I notice the TCS start flashing as I'm recovering...
Its weird cause I wasn't on the gas anymore unlike with my 01 jetta which would only flash if I was actually accelerating....so this happens 2 more times along the way. Every time it happend I wasn't on the gas hard and I was able to recover but I'm extremely confused as to why this would EVER happen. I've driven many awd cars before in the snow and NEVER has the rear just jumped out on me without me REALLY trying to break the rear loose and it usually required a sharp turn of the wheel to do so. I was driving straight as an arrow every time she broke loose and I was barely on the gas (and not even on the gas the first time). Am I going crazy or is the something wrong with my Tig?
On a side note my TPM light is on (but all tires are fine) maybe this is bugging the computer out or something?
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I tried to convert the bulbs in my dashboard with LED bulbs..and it worked for about a month and stop working..then about a week after not having any dash lights. They came back on...but like a strobe, but not all the time..... And then it'll be fine? I'm also looking Into doing a taillight conversion to LEDs.
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One of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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The charging system light has started to flicker on and off when it is wet outside. It does not come on and stay on. What to look for in the way of causes?
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The bulb in my dome light started to flicker all of a sudden and now it won't even turn on. It will not turn on whether the switch is in "Door" or "On" position. I put back the original bulb to see if the bulb burnt out but still nothing.
All other interior lights/exterior lights work except for the bulb in the middle of this picture. I'm thinking it may be a fuse....
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I have a 1987 Chevrolet Celebrity that on the exterior is in pretty rough shape but seems to run great overall. The car is only driven to and from work which is only about 4 miles each direction. So it is drive 8-10 miles a day 5 days a week. It starts great and doesn't seem to have any problems except for the flickering oil light. After about 10 minutes of driving the oil light will start to flicker whenever the car is stopped (i.e., a stop light or drive-through) As soon as I start to drive again it will stop flickering. This problem seems exacerbated on especially not days and it happens earlier than normal. It does have an oil leak so I check the oil often but this happens even when the oil is at a normal level. I don't really want to take the car in because it isn't worth anything and I don't really want to invest money into it. What might cause a flickering oil light?
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We got a 1990 celica gt with the 5sfe in it. first night driving it after about 30 minutes the oil light would flicker at idle. We checked the oil, it was nasty so we did a complete oil change. Didn't fix the issue. Well then we developed an oil leak at the oil pump seal so we replaced all those. We had heard the sending units were notorious for going bad so we took it out and put an aftermarket gage in it. Still an issue.
Ok so then we checked the main bearings to make sure they were ok, they are fine. Normal wear. No clogged oil screen either. We then was told to try a little bit thicker oil so we did that. Still the issue. Here's what happens. start it up cold at idle is about 50-60psi. Let it warm completely up and it drops to 18-20psi. When you rev it up it rises.
Ok well after driving it for about 30 minutes after warm when I came to a stop it dropped to 0! Rev it up and it rises a lot. Held it at 2k rpms and it stays at about 30-35 psi. Ok as I'm driving it, it has good oil pressure. Motor is not making any noises other than the common Toyota valve chatter.
We have ran cleaner thru the engine thinking so gunked up ports and still no change. We are at a loss. Like I said cold it's fine, revving it up after being hot is fine. Driving it is fine. but boy when the engine is hot n u come to a stop or at idle it's nothing.
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Today I swapped in some OEM non led bixenons along with a new cecm. All seems to be good except my passenger side light. When I switch on the lights it flicks on for a second then turns back off. If I hold the stalk to activate the high beams the light will come completely on and function just fine from then on. Bad connection, bulb or ballasts?
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Converting DLR to yellow fog lights? What bulbs to use?
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So today i was pulling into traffic from a driveway. As i merged in I noticed my Traction Control light flashing for like 3 seconds then it went off.
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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
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Went to start changing out my door courtesy lights to LED's today, changed the first one and it just flickered for a second when I connected it. I thought maybe it wasn't making a good connection so i made sure it was and nothing, flipped the bulb & nothing.
I went to the back door and tried the same and it worked fine with the led.
Took the front door courtesy light and swapped it with the trunk one to see if it would work and now the trunk one will not work either. no matter if Im using the normal stock bulb or LED, No power with a test light either. Fuses are ok.
The other 3 doors have power but not the trunk and front pass door, its like the circuit is dead there.
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I have a 2002 Prius.
The other day out of nowhere the warning light came on 2 second later the GPS screen flicker and the car turned off on me. I waiting about 5 minutes and the car started up. Was told could be the main 12v battery but want more input on this. The warning light turn off on its own the next day.
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1991 Celica ST 4A-FE automatic, 238,000 miles, son's car, has been running great, until he says his oil light occasionally flickers on him. Car is in Wisconsin, driven maybe 2 miles one way to work every day, hasn't been on the highway is a couple months. Has synthetic 5W-30 oil with about 2,000 miles since last change.
Brought the car into the garage. Sure enough, after engine warmed up and idle got below 1,000 RPM, oil pressure warning lamp would come on. Engine sounded normal at idle and fast idle. Tough to put a mechanical pressure gauge on this engine (after to remove the alternator and A/C compressor and bracket, per the service manual, to access the oil pressure switch). I drove it on the highway, put about 40 miles on it, ran great, until I exited the highway. Anything below 1200 RPM, oil pressure warning light would come on.
Came home, removed the oil filter with intent to change it (to make sure it wasn't plugged). Smelled of gas. Oh-Oh. Drained the oil (oil level was at full mark, unusual for this vehicle, normally would be 1/2-quart low after 2,000 miles - 2 months of winter driving). Oil came out with consistency of water. Smelled of gas, and could see water droplets as I switch the drained oil from a collection pan into a jug. Thought was many short trips caused oil to never get hot enough to burn off unburned fuel blow-up or accumulated moisture, so oil was diluted, much too low viscosity.
Changed oil & filter with synthetic 5W-30 & Purolator PureOne oil filter. Took it back on the highway for 40 miles again. Highway drive was fine. Upon exiting, oil pressure warning light came on at 1,600 RPM or below. Oh-Oh. Had another 40 miles on the highway to get home. Highway drive was good again. Upon existing, oil pressure warning light came on again at 1,800 RPM or lower. Oh-Oh.
Worrying that the oil pump for pressure by-pass valve or of bearing spin-out or extreme wear (although engine sounded fine all the time), decided to order an OEM oil pressure switch. Had to take some of the bolt-ons off to access the oil pressure switch, but not all the service manual said had to come off. Took the old oil pressure switch out - looked just fine. Installed the new one, put everything back together. Checked to make sure the oil pressure warning light still came on with key in the ON position (it did), so I knew the wiring connections were good. Startup was fine (cold engine). Took it on the highway for 40 miles, after exiting highway, no more oil pressure warning light. Even tested the situation with the automatic in drive, brake applied, lights on high-beam, heater fan on high, rear window defroster on (got the engine down to 600 RPM), still not oil pressure warning light. Turned engine off, then turned ignition key to ON, oil pressure warning light comes on like it should.
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I noticed yesterday that my driver side xenon light flickers when driving... It's a bit annoying and i can notice it more now. Going to the dealer again on monday, I have my DRL Vagged, wonder if they are going to give me hell about this.
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I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.
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