Tiguan :: Few Drops Of Oil Leaking?
Mar 23, 2016
Recently found a few drops of oil leaking from my tiguan, I look under there and there is this screw that was very loose *picture below*. I tried to tighten it, but it doesn't... you turn and turn and it just resets its self, not allowing me to fully tighten it down. It gets loose again when I drive to work. What can I do to fix it.
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I purchased a CPO 2013 Tiguan about 5 weeks ago with just under 29k miles. I now have about 30.5k miles. I have noticed this occur a couple of times. After the car is warmed up, and I am sitting idle for a little bit, I notice the RPMS bounce down to about 600, but then quickly correct itself and get back up to 750-800. When I purchased the car, they said they did the 30k mile maintenance. I have done 1 oil change withe the Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 euro blend. I do not feel like the oil change is the issue at all as I have changed oil plenty of times with numerous cars. Maybe I just need the ECU re-flashed?
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My 2009 managed to lose 4 quarts of oil over 200 miles today.
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So I'm about 10 mins from home today when the coolant low/overheating dash light (the key light) came on and started flashing. I got off the next exit and pulled into a Wal-Mart and notice I had no coolant when I lifted the hood. There was a strong coolant smell so I looked under the car and it was pouring out.
I got some more put in to get me home. I was 5 mins away and by the time I got home it was completely empty again. I can't see the leak looking from the top of the engine. When I look up it's coming out on the passenger side at the back of the firewall.
I filled it back up and just pulled the car into the garage. 7 hours later and the coolant is still full so it only happens when I'm driving. There was no oil present in the coolant leak. I pulled the oil dipstick and it looks normal, no milky color.
I'm having it towed to the local VW dealership tomorrow morning but just wanted to see what everyone's opinion on the issue might be.
Only 33K miles on the Tiguan The engine never ran hot. The needle was right in the middle the entire time. No engine mods other than a Chip, Intake, and Catch Can. I've yet to hear about either of those three mods causing this issue.
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Just found valve cover of my Tiguan is leaking out oil this morning. Will go to dealer tmr for gasket replacement. My car is just over 50k miles. What happened to VW's car quality control???
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My water pump housing is leaking. My 09 is well out of warranty but that's not really my question. I would like to know what you did when you replaced your water pump. did you upgrade to a metal impeller pump such as the GEBA brand?
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I have a 2009 Tiguan and after my car sat out overnight in a heavy rain I noticed a very odd thing today. Like normal the car smelled a little musty, something I've gotten used to after a rain. But I think I've found the cause. I hit my brakes hard to try to stop the squeakiness (another normal quirk after the rain) and I heard water running in the back seat. I looked back and saw water running on the floor beneath the passenger back seat. I hit the brakes hard again while looking back and watched it pour out of the other side beneath the plastic strip beneath the seat. I pulled over and looked and there are these little black channels underneath there where I believe the water came from. What are those and where is that water originating from? Is this normal?!
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I found water in the floor in the front and rear passenger side of the car. I cleaned it up thinking the sunroof may not have been closed all the way at the dealership when they washed it. I drove it today in the rain and the front passenger side is wet again next to the console and near the seat. Where are the drains located at?
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I have a 2002 Kia Rio that I bought new in the summer of 2002. It did not have cruise control so I got one installed by a third party. Then I moved to St. Louis from Seattle in winter of 2003. About 3 - 4 years later the speedometer would not move from zero when I first drove the car. This seemed to happen only on real cold days, and after driving around for 10 minutes or so, the speedometer would suddenly start working again. Kia convinced me that my third party cruise control was installed incorrectly and was causing the problem (despite the fact that it had worked perfectly for years). They disconnected the cruise thingy and the speedometer worked just fine.
Then a couple of years later the problem started again, but in all temperatures, not just when it was cold. A different Kia dealer found the problem and fixed it (but they didn't tell me what they had done). Now just 3 months ago the problem started again, but then it appeared to be related to driving in the rain. I was on a 6 day trip to Seattle and it rained most of the time. As soon as I got back to dry Reno, the problem went away. But now the speedometer is always at zero. I don't know if it will start up after driving for a while because I rarely drive in Reno for more than 15 - 20 minutes.
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This has happened twice with my car - first time was end of Feb 2014 and just a few weeks ago.
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I have a 62 Econoline Pickup with 72' C4 transmission behind a 200 i6 engine. A normal driving speed (shifts up ok - 1st, 2nd, 3rd) when you let off the gas, it down shifts into 2nd gear (shouldn't it coast? ). When you accelerate it shifts back into 3rd. As you decelerate towards a stop it shifts from 2nd to 1st as it should. Supposedly the transmission was rebuilt within the past several years and not many miles since then. I have now was to substantiate this. What's causing this? Or am I looking at a worm out tyranny (time for a rebuild?)?
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've had my R since last July and I love it so far (20,000 mi.). Recently I have run into a couple of problems.
1. When coming to a stop, my RPM drops to 600 and then as I release my foot off the brake, it dips down to 400 and back up again causing a "jerking" motion. This sounds a bit different then what most of you are talking about regarding the recall.
2. I am about to buy my 2nd new front tire due to a bubble in the sidewall. I have the Dunlop SP Sports.
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'01 A6 2.7T 95k....Not boosting as high as normal...the check engine light came on the other day, P1136 code said engine was running lean. I found a small vacuum hose leak near wastegate and fixed it today (CEL is still on though). Stock boost is normally around 8-9 psi, but I am only getting 6-7 psi. Also, the boost seems to climb more slowly than it has been, and it occasionally goes into limp mode (only 3-4 psi). The turbos were replaced about a year ago with all new blue hoses. There aren't any other symptoms, no weird noises.
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I have had several issues getting to where I am now. The Neutral safety switch (MLPS) is new. The tranny has been rebuilt with new TC installed as well. The truck shifts out fin 1-2-3-4 until I hit 57mph. At 57 the od drops out and will not reengage until I drop down below that speed. I ran a diagnostic test on the TPS with my multi-meter and it all was in range on the voltages and was smooth through throttle movement etc.
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I have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
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I have a 99 Suburban 5.7L that does not like to start when outside air temperature drops in the fall. This only effects initial morning start and once started it starts and runs fine all day! If i give it a very small shot of either in crankcase vent opening in intake bonnet it starts and runs fine after that! The pump cycles and seems to be fine! Once started all is fine untill the next morning after it sets 12 hours! Could it be the AIT switch?
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My car hasn't had the gps icon on for about a week. I've also had gps problems with my phone. I downloaded a utility on my phone that tells me how many gps satellites I'm connected to. When my car is off with the windows up and sunroof closed I'm connected to 10 to 15 antennas. When the car is on it drops to zero. I stick my phone out the window and it goes back up the 10 to 15. Also when I turn the car off it goes up to 10 to 15.
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1993 accord LX- Thought I had the problem solved by taking the 6 small port plugs out of the emissions system and cleaning up all the buildup plus opening the ports back up that were plugged.
When I put a vacuum gauge on the black rubber hose going from the control box to the EGR valve there is an initial buildup of vacuum upon acceleration but within seconds it drops off to zero. I switched control boxes and used one my brother had from his 91 accord he parted out and still had the same result.
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Whenever I touch the screen the volume drops down on the music playing. I know I have seen how to adjust that, cant find it
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I recently bought a 2004 Prius with 104,000 miles on it. When I try to go up into the mountains I only get a few miles or up to 1,000 to 2,000 ft. elevation (from 300 ft. starting) and the battery level gradually drops from 6 bars to 1 bar. The red triangle light and check engine light comes on and the car speed gradually begins to drop even if I continue to press on the gas pedal. I have only gotten down to about 35 MPH from 60-65 mph before stopping and turning around. Within a few miles of turning around the light goes off and the battery goes back up to 6 bars and works good going down hill.
The dealer I bought the car from has been working with me to figure out the problem but so far we have not figured it out. He has replaced the main battery as well as the inverter/converter. The mechanic was with me on a test drive to the mountains and had his car computer plugged in while we drove and experienced the same thing. It gave the code for the catalytic converter so we changed the entire CC/muffler (one long piece) and still got the same code. The battery indicator on this car has never shown more than 6 bars. I personally think it has a bad "Gas Engine" or something wrong with the gas engine.
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When I bought the car in 2009, if I had 4 bars on my traction battery at night, it would have them in the morning. Now I can leave the car for 2 hours in moderate weather. When I drive off, it will show 4 bars but driving in eco mode w/o ac, it will drop to 2 within a mile and stay there for several miles before it starts to charge again. My overall fuel economy has dropped 10%.
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