Tiguan :: Error Codes P1946, 006470 Diagnosed
Jun 10, 2014
I have a '10 tiguan awd wolfs. The other day I was stuck in traffic and the temp started to run away. Got home and a few checks. No coolant leaks and the 40A fan fuse is ok.
I did a scan and vcds found this:
006470 - Control Module 1 for Coolant Fan
P1946 - 000 - Defective
From what I've found the new(er) style control module is no longer a small brick; it's located within the main fan motor. I dropped the rad assembly, installed the new one and cleared the dtc code in the engine control module. Immediately the code comes back and the fans never kick on.
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I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side.
So I had them perform the coolant flushes. After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again.
SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues !
The check engine light came back on the next day. The service person invited me back and did not charge me this time because it was the same issue. I told them that I am not in the business of randomly changing parts on my car unless I am absolutely sure I know exactly what the problem is. HOWEVER, this time they kept my vehicle for a good week or two. Running it through various diagnostics tests overnight here and there.
They finally came out and said that they feel that I have a coolant system leak coming from my engine and that I need to replace my head gasket which is responsible for sealing the engine.
During my 1st visit, the codes were P0117 and P1150
During the 2nd and 3rd visits , in addition to those, there was one additional one that came up that I will post as soon as I find it !
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So my car has been running a little rough for a while(about 6-8 months now) and the CEL has been going off sporadically. The clutch went out last week and has been replaced fixing a large part of the issue, however the car still feels kind of rough in the 3k rpm range and up. I feel a strong vibration when I step on the throttle and the car hesitates to build power. On cold starts the car also has a rough idle where the rpms are hovering above 1k for a few minutes.
I recently took the car over to AU Tuning where they gave me a free diagnostic(Pacific German was charging me $100 just for a diagnostic!?). They told me the throttle body might need a cleaning but I was better off replacing the whole unit. They also discovered my air intake hose torn near the diverter valve and a 5 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator that was pressed in for added pressure.
Given that I just replaced the clutch, funds are tight and I don't have the money to replace everything right away
I should mention VAG-Com reported the following codes:
P1137 Fuel Trim: Bank 1 - System too Rich,
P1297 Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1171 Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator(G188) Implausible Signal
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My driver side bi-xenon bulb was out, so I go to replace the bulb and it still doesn't turn on. I scanned my car with my vagcom, and I get this error.
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-30-H.lbl
Part No SW: 3C8 937 049 E HW: 3C8 937 049 E
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2602
Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000008706034
Coding: E78C8FA300041C004719000014000000002AF7475C40012539 0000000000
[Code] .....
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Just used Carista to switch to a single beep when reversing. Whilst I was in the app, just out of curiosity, I checked for error codes. B1423 appeared. I didn't expect to see anything as the car is brand new.
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2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
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Car was perfectly fine. Parked it in a parking spot, turned it off for a minute, started it back up, and BAM, Master Indicator Light is illuminated(not blinking), along with check engine light. (yellow, not blinking)
Code reader gives me these two codes: P0ac0 and P0afa
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A few months back, my wife (2007 Prius) was telling me that she had some stuff going on with it. I found the diagnostic test for the 12 v battery and it failed. So I replaced the 12v and everything was fine until about two weeks ago. Two weeks ago, she got a check engine light. Then she stopped the car and when she fired back up again, the light was extinguished. So, I figured no big deal. Yesterday, she went to leave and the car was lit up like a Christmas tree. So she took my truck to work and left me a note about this. She figured I would drive my garage queen Vette... but I chose to drive the Prius to see if I could figure out some things, which I did.
Here is everything that I noticed thus far:
First, I will start with lights. Brake System Warning light is on, Check engine malfunction indicator is on, Red triangle with exclamation point Master warning light is on, VSC Vehicle stability control system warning light is on. Then on the tv screen panel, the Hybrid system warning light is on. I ran down to O'Reilly's to see what codes it pulled, and this is what I have: C0200 Right VSS, C0205 Left VSS, C1259 Regenerative Malfunction, C1310 Malfunction H/V System, P1121 Coolant flow control, X2 Valve Sensor Circuit stack, P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack, P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak, P3016 Battery Block 6 becomes weak, and then a few more repeats.
What I have looked at and what I have noticed/experienced thus far; At the beginning of the day yesterday, when stopped at a light, the engine would turn on and then shut off frequently (approx every 20 seconds). A lot more than normal. As of today, the engine just stays on constantly... even after the battery indicator shows full, it stays running. The battery cooling fan stays running. Sometimes the car lacks power at start out, When slowing down, I tried selecting the "B" as I know that it would normally work as a trans brake and regenerate power, it doesn't seem to be doing that and it seems as though the tranny doesn't know exactly what to do. I checked the 12v battery again through the diagnostic and it says it was at 12.2v so that should be good. I noticed that the battery indicator will show full and then just drop down to one bar and then go back up to full and stay at full for a while. Lastly, I saw the inverter check and I did that by turning the car on (ready on) and I can see the fluid moving around and I can feel it in the tube and the fluid level is good.
It sounds to me as if the ECM/ECU may be bad. Or maybe the HV battery. I was leaning towards the ECM/ECU just because of all of the different fluctuations, but with electrical stuff, it could very well be the battery.
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Upon turning on my car and driving a few feet I had the Red Triangle of Death, Yellow VSC, Yellow (!) Indicator, and check engine light and I'm trying to figure out where I should start working on the issue.
The Codes were as Follows:
P3000 (subcode 123)
C0200
C1241
C1300
C1310
C1259
A little history:
About 3 months ago I had an issue with the hybrid battery and replaced a battery cell which stopped all issues. About 2 weeks ago I replaced the coolant inverter pump and until today there has been no errors, CELs, or any negative performance.
This is a Gen II, 2007 prius with almost 200k miles.
Unfortunately I had plans that I could not reschedule and made the drive to the location and drove back. I had serious battery drain and it was almost always at 1 bar of battery, sometime reaching up to 2 bars. There is also the sound of a fan coming from the back seat, which I assume is the HV Battery fan, but it is on regardless of if I have air conditioning or not. A/C is working fine. When I returned home the battery charged almost up to full bars, but when I came to a stop the battery drained in about 10 seconds leaving me with very low power to keep moving. After that whenever I slowed down the teal arrows showing a recharge of the battery were gone and the battery seemed to refuse to recharge.
Steps taken so far:
I topped off my engine coolant in the front reservoir as it seemed a little low, but I didn't add much before it was full. The other reservoir near the engine was just about full and taking off the other cap showed coolant filled to the top.
I tested the 12v battery with my voltmeter which came back reading 12.7.
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Here is my situation- back in 2014 I had a local mechanic replace my HV battery and 12V battery after the Red Triangle of Death. Well yesterday that triangle reared its ugly head again! (and cruise control stopped working) Since this mechanic has 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty on all parts and labor, I figured this should be covered. I drove my wife's car to work today, then after work drove the Prius over there to find them closed until Friday!
So I had the guys at Advanced Auto read the codes for me and got P3006, C1213, and C1259. I have done extensive reading and researching, much of it on this site on these codes, but my main question is this:
I commute about 20 miles one way, and on certain days my wife commutes 10 to 22 miles the opposite direction. There are 3 days we go opposite ways this week, and at least one that is completely unmanageable without 2 cars.
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I recently had the rear pads replaced on my 2010 Tig after about 39k miles by my local mechanic (won't do that again). Not soon after I received the warning light that indicated a parking brake error but had no issue using the brake. Took it to the dealer for the 40k service and they checked the brake. Couldn't find anything wrong with it after diagnostics but they did reset it. Service Mgr said I may get the error again and they would have to look into it further (possibly the switch??). Received the error again today.
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So have my first code and its the P0088 error. Seems to be a reading that fuel pressure is high. I feel no loss of power or any issues when it throws this. HAs Happened 2 times in the fast 3 months and the last one seemed to clear itself after a couple hours. VW is saying its APR stage 1 even through APR tunes (stage 1) don't change the fuel pressure. Not sure if its a sensor issue, the start of a bad HPFP or simply a weird effect from the tune. Again I have no power loss or any other notable issues.
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My boss has an 08 Tiguan and he got an error light on his dash coming to work today. It's yellow with an exclamation mark in the centre. On both side's there's a solid line and on the bottom it's got a "squiggly" line.
What it might be or if this is something known about them? He states there's no performance loss or anything acting up at all. Short of bringing it to a dealer which will be closed by the time we're both off work I thought I would start here.
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Installed recirculating cc with PVC plate fills up with eng. oil 60mls. Rosstech shows no codes. Performance is An-ok. no oil consumption, boost gauge shows no vac. leak. We are at a loss. I noticed from the PVC system explanation that there is a check valve in the honeycomb insert in the oil pan to prevent eng. oil intake under high vac. If that valve fails could that cause my problem? With or without the cc there are no performance issues.
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I have a 2010 Tiguan and the check engine light has come on. When I use my ODB scan tool it doesn't find any codes and the check engine light won't go on. What might be the problem?
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Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
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I'm getting codes P0441, P0446, P0456, P0420 and P0430.
My fuel consumption in town is around 12 mpg, so a bit higher than what others report. The cats were removed because they were in bad condition. I suspect excess fuel was sent to the cats. That would also explain the bad mpg ?
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P0302
P0301
P1545
P1300 X2
I have no clue what is wrong but I have an exhaust leak and when I am accelerating I can hear the loud shhh sound like the turbo is leaking but I still have power like normal.
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I'm reaching out to see if any other MQB platform owners who had DCC/Magride are experiencing suspension errors after upgrading to coilovers while employing a delete kit. Some of us S3 owners have been running into this issue after such an upgrade and using this kit by KW. I can throw a suspension error on demand in my S3 by taking a turn/curve at 40mph+ (highway on/off ramps work perfectly for this). A bumpy road or hard braking can also cause an error to be thrown.
Aside from the error being annoying sounding and looking it also re-enabled traction control. You cannot turn traction control back off until you've power cycled the car. This is a pretty annoying side effect that could also be pretty dangerous under the right circumstances. KW seems to think their kit is operating correctly and that the height sensors are out of range due to lowering the car. Currently there's no way to adjust where the height sensors sit so in my personal opinion this seems like a massive oversight on KWs part and their product is not working correctly.
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