I have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Oldsmobile 98 sedan with engine braking problems. It has the 3800 engine (complete with a slight intake manifold leak, as per the GM custom) and low miles. I recently moved from the midwest to the west coast, where this battleship encountered real mountains for the first time on the road trip west. Driving into Yellowstone NP from Cody, Wyoming I encountered a particularly hilly stretch of US highway that had a steep grade and plenty of curves down the hill.
I took the car out of overdrive and put it down a gear to let the engine braking assist. Nothing happened. The car continued to speed up with no assistance from the engine, even in 2nd, which should have held me at around 45-50. To test this on the next big drop, I started at the top from a full stop, and in first gear. I should have been walking down the mountain, but instead the car kept speeding up to around 40 and 4000 rpms before I relented and shifted up.
Is this a transmission problem? Or would the lack of engine braking downhill but no transmission problems when tooling around town elsewhere indicate something else? Maybe a vacuum leak?
Got my Tiguan SE at the end of July and had a transmission failure this weekend. Was turning left at a light and transmission failed. Engine was revving, but no traction. Finally got to a safe location and D, S and R gears were no responsive. Catalytic converter light came on as well as the Wrench icon at the top left of the information panel.
Waited two hours for VW roadside assistance and Tiguan is sitting at the dealership to be looked at tomorrow morning.
Needless to say, very distressed. Haven't even made my first payment yet and got stranded in the middle of a busy street.
I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
Right now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 RepliesSo my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
View 5 RepliesI've been mostly content with my Prius Plug-in for nearly a year now. But, as a driver very consciously aware of what my car is doing, I have many complaints concerning the internal combustion engine igniting when not needed, or remaining on for far too long. I do my best to work around them, but I feel the need to enumerate my complaints and vent about them. Note I live in southern California where cold weather is extremely rare, and I consciously don't use the heater or AC.
ICE ignites when braking downhill on a full charge. I've heard users say this is necessary because if the battery is full, regenerative braking will overcharge the battery.
ICE ignites if I step on the accelerator ever so slightly too hard. I understand that Toyota claims it needs to use ICE to deliver the extra power to the wheels asked for by the driver, but I just don't believe that. The engine usually simply idles and does not power the wheels at all when this happens, meanwhile the wheels are still running on 100% EV power. I know this because I've become in tune to exactly when the ICE powers the wheels and when it's not. The easiest sign of ICE actually powering wheels is when the accelerator begins to vibrate and I hear the ICE rev up. The second sign is by watching the MPG meter. If you're cruising at something like 50 MPH, and the ICE is idling, you'll see it getting about 80-90 MPG. When it actually supplies useful power, it suddenly drops down to 50 or below.
ICE ignites if the car moves faster than 65 MPH. This seems totally arbitrary to me. For example, it does not matter if you're accelerating steep downhill in neutral, or on a level highway just very slowly accelerating past 65. You can watch the power meter the whole time, and even if it doesn't get anywhere near the (power) section to the far right, the ICE still ignites as soon as you hit 66. In those situations, why does it even think it needs any extra power? And to top it all off, all it really does is idle for at least a minute anyway.
The ICE runs only momentarily, but here's the kicker: If you immediately let go of the accelerator, decelerate to below 65 MPH, or even come to a full stop at a red light, the ICE still continues to run for at least a minute or two. Worse still, it idles for about a minute regardless of speed or power, then suddenly decides that it should power the wheels for a few seconds even if no variables have changed, and it does this for about 30 seconds more before finally deciding to suddenly pop back into pure EV mode. How you work around all of this? Stop at a red light, shut off the car, and restart it. As it powers on, it stays in EV mode, proving to you that it never needed to be sitting there idling in the first place.
Have a 2011 Toyota Sienna with about 50k. Ive been having this problem for over a year but was not very noticeable. But in the last several months, the shudder has increased and the car shakes a good deal when I brake downhill.
The problem does not happen on a flat surface or downhill.
I did some online search and some seem to point to warped brake rotors. Is that likely? Also more importantly, how dangerous is it to drive more in this condition? From where we live we need to negotiate steep downhill every day.
My 2002 v6 camry is shaking while braking on a downhill at highway speed 60mph. This started yesterday. Afterwards on level surface and lower speed no shaking. Late yesterday, again on highway downhill, more shaking.
I live on a mountain and do not notice the shaking coming down at 30mph, including yesterday.
A couple of months ago the pads were 75% and the rotors were resurfaced approx 4000 miles ago. And the rotors are the third pair if i remember correctly.
I bought the car new and it has 121000 miles on it.
I have 2011 RX AWD and noticed when driving downhill and braking, car will shake. It feels like the wheels are shaking but the steering wheel does not. Is it rotors or something else?
Also RX is certified pre owned warranty for another 30k miles and I want to do alignment on it but not sure if warranty will cover that ?
Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
I'm a new owner to my first 4x4 vehicle. My vehicle is a 2007 f150 xlt. Today while I was driving into work I had my vehicle in 4wd high. As I was going down hill I let off the gas and started braking. When all of a sudden my 4wd drive switched into neutral. I am wondering what could cause this to happen and whether it's an issue or not? It is snowing which was my purpose for being in 4wd.
View 9 Replies2016 tiguan sel. To make a long story short I drove a '14 r line and was told the '16 SEL would drive the same because they changed the trim lineup. The Sel has a noticeably more loose steering, braking, and suspension. It also doesn't hold revs the same. My sales person was an idiot and I couldn't drive model I bought because they had lost the keys and it was the only one they had.
View 2 RepliesI just picked up my new Tiguan Wolfsburg yesterday. Beautiful! Drives wonderfully! But an odd thing, I noticed that as I brake, there is this thud, thud, thud noise around the back tires; almost like something is hitting the tire because the thud interval slows as the car slows. Then, when I got out after a 10 mile drive home, I noticed the heavy scent of burning rubber. Does this sound at all like a new car settling in, or possible issues already?
View 3 RepliesTraveling downhill, with no throttle input. The car is regenerating power as I coast down the hill. I hear the engine turn on and rev up. I glance at the Scangauge and see RPM is at 3045 or so. MPG is still 9999 and SOC is 77.
View 13 RepliesHow the synergy drive is working. Why when coming down on a long down hill (mountain pass for example) the car stays at high RPM ? That usually happens when battery is charge to its MAX of 80%.
View 19 Replies2005 Ford Escape, 4-cylinder with ~75,000 miles. I experience engine misfire when driving on the highway after 1+ hours that only occurs when I'm going DOWNHILL. The misfire will last between 36-41 seconds and then goes back to operating fine. Doesn't occur on every downhill and doesn't occur on steep downhills during in-town driving. The diagnostics always show the error for cylinders 1 and 4. The following repairs have been made:
Replaced all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils, replaced fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned and tested showing no concerns.
Misfires reoccur during next long drive 6 months later, compression test performed and failed. All four fuel injectors replaced and one connector replaced.
Misfires reoccurred again during next long drive 4 months later.
I am stumped as to why the problem keeps happening, why it only occurs when going downhill, and why it seems to last for a fairly consistent length of time.
V10 - When you shift into tiptronic to brake going downhill, the engine first revs up and then the transmission engages. Sort of an automatic double clutch!
View 2 RepliesI have a 1987 ramcharger with a 318 and auto tranny. I just put a new carburetor on it. The previous owner partially deleted the lean burn system but didn't change out the carb. I put a Carter 2bbl on it. The truck will start fine and drive fine until I try to go down hill, it then stalls. It doesn't do it as much going up hill, but is still a problem then. If I keep on the accelerator it stays running. I cant figure out what the deal is and is absolutely driving me nuts.
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