Tiguan :: Door Shutting With Extra Vibration Or Movement After Repair
Mar 18, 2012
Have body work and/or any type of repair that required their doors be removed? I got my car back from the body shop and I'm noticing that the two doors that needed to be replaced just don't sound the same when they close compared to the other (factory) side. It's difficult to describe in text, but the original doors have a solid, singular and non-vibrating sound. The new doors seem more hollow and have what I would describe as a double-sounding close instead of a singular one. They sound like there's one extra vibration or movement when closing. I realize that this is probably not immensely important.
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So I drove my wife's 2013 Tig SE (FWD) yesterday and heard a weird (extra) door chime noise when I got out of the car....just doesn't sound right.
And my 2013 Tig S obviously doesn't do it.
Planned on taking it to the dealer.
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Must preface this by saying I drive A LOT... about 600-1K per week for work, so unfortunately my Tiguan takes a beating. Bought it new (62 miles on it) in 8/2012. Had major misfire issues around 68-70K and had to get it towed. (AAA guy said Tiguan owners should know it is difficult to tow and required my husband to drive it up on the truck). Next day I replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, and got an oil change and dealership was nice enough to have it covered under part of a maintenance service package and only paid about 600 incl. labor which was nice. Been religious with oil changes and some big service items.
Car was working fine until about 95K, when the engine and the cooling fan started to sound extra loud. Then at 98K service and oil change (2 weeks ago), I had them check the tires anyways because I usually get new tires around 50-60K of driving. Dealership said the loud driving around 20-40 mph was due to the wear of the tires and I needed new brakes on both front and back. I understood that and needed new tires anyway. I set up an appointment to get them done at another place and the other place told me I only needed rear brakes and new tires.
Since last week it seems the turbo timer & cool down sounded a little strange (extra loud, extra fluttering sound near the front wheels, and yesterday was not making the cooling down sound after it was parked and turned off). Then Yesterday engine light turned on and VW couldn't take me for a week and a half!! Took it this morning to a repair shop I trust for years (but not VW specific) said the diagnostic showed it was a turbo issue so I will have to go back to the dealership next week anyways.
Getting all new tires with rear brakes today with transmission oil change. But very unhappy that this is happening. When I go back to the VW dealership? Hoping it is just the turbo timer which is a less expensive fix than the entire thing. Also any recommendations with service/maintenance for a Tiguan with climbing miles? Worst part is I just reached 100K miles from my last service 2 weeks ago. Just figured I'd list everything since most people don't have this many miles on their 2012 Tiguans SE 4Motion yet.
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I have been tackling my engines idle vibrations for a while now. Now that I noticed the engine also tilts when switching from N to D about 2 inches. Here are some specs and things I have done with little effect.2.4L engine, cleaned throttle body MAF sensor, checked and replaced spark plugs, PCV replaced, checked engine mount(visual inspection, no cracked rubber ) , idle at about 900rpm, and idle sometimes drops when no load is applied, that's when vibration gets worse, normal idle still gives vibration that can be felt on the seats...and you can see the seats vibrate...
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Is there a way to prevent the radio from shutting off when ignition is turned off? I would prefer if it shut off when the keys are removed. The book is not so friendly as far as finding this kind of information.
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30-40 seconds after shutting down the engine, i can hear a single "clack/click" noise coming from under the hood, near the right wheel. Is it normal? What's moving, some sort of electrovalve/actuator?
I hear it being out of the car, inside it's not so easy to listen. It's well after I turn off the key and it does it only once. It's not really near the wheel, with the hood open i located the CLACK behind the engine (on the side near the windscreen), could it be something related with fap / etc.?
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Just bought a 2012 limited Avalon and am trying to link smart key door unlock to seat memory. Have followed directions in manual (ignition off, door closed, seat set to desired position - press 2 and unlock at same time, hear beep). After doing this process, I move the drivers seat and close and lock drivers door and wait until lights go out. No seat movement upon door unlock. Have to press seat memory position button to move seat back.
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It sounds like something plastic above ish the rear driver side wheel.
Like a: fwap fwap fwap when I shut my door.
Really bothersome. Always had it.
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I recently fixed a hollow sounding door rattle that was coming from the outer door skin on my driver's side door. It turned out to be a stiffening rib that was not bonded to the door skin anymore, possibly because of an impact or just age of the vehicle.
After removing the door panel and peeling back the plastic dust guard, I used some adhesive caulk and tapered rubber wedges to brace the stiffener and reattach it to the door skin.
The picture shows the approximate location of the stiffener in between the outer skin and the inner panel support.
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I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited for one full year now and this is the first problem I've encountered, and its a strange one.
After parking and shutting off the vehicle (with the push button since I have the smart fob) if I exit the vehicle and shut the door the car will produce a loud BEEP for several seconds. If I look through the window, the screen on the instrument cluster will very briefly say "key not in vehicle" as if I had left the engine running, but actually the engine is off. The message goes away after a second or two, but the beep continues for a few more seconds.
After the beep stops, I'm able to lock the doors normally by pushing the button on the door handle or using the remote. It seems to happen about every other time I park/get out of the car, but it is random. The only pattern I've found is it always happens if I am in a rush. If I turn off the car, open and close the door quickly, it almost always beeps at me. But if I turn off the car, sit inside for a few extra seconds and THEN get out, it seems to be fine. What could be causing this?
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Had this issue for a while, but it doesn't seem to cause a problem. It's more of a curiosity than anything... Most of the time, the dome light operates as usual- close the door and the light stays on for a bit before shutting off. But about a quarter of the time, the light goes off immediately after the door is shut. It's done this the entire time I've owned the truck (about 2-1/2 years). Why?
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Truck '02 F250 SuperCab - I was having an issue with the door ajar light staying on and the radio not shutting off upon exiting the truck. After having no luck with the WD-40 fix, I replaced the door switch sensor on the driver's side door and disconnected the negative battery cable for a few minutes (maybe 5-10).
Problem solved or so I thought...a few days later (approximately 5) the door ajar light came back on and the radio did not shut off. I disconnected the negative cable and sure enough that fixed it...again The problem is that every few days I have to go thru this. I'm not sure if it's related or not, but the CD player has started giving me "error reading disc" on even brand new CD's.
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I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
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So i have a 09 tiguan with 112000 kms. and lately i have been having problems with the transmission. i am getting a vibration upon acceleration and it acts up with its shifting like switching gears every once and a while like its hunting for a correct gear. this problem has been getting steadily worse. Is there anything i should know about these transmissions that is common to go on them that would cause this. the car is not beat on and i tried to get vw to do a filter and fluid change but they refused to stating it is a sealed unit and the do not touch it.
Is this a software issue (i highly doubt it) as i did a tb reset and it made it a bit better. i am at a loss with this car it is costing me a fortune. One last thing i had the prnd letters light up solid one time a while ago upon starting but it only did it once and never did it again. I am pretty sure this says there is a fault if i am not correct.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan SE FWD with just over 10k miles. It has been about 2 weeks since the 10k service, all the sudden today I noticed pretty strong vibration in the steering wheel when going over 70 mph on highway. What would cause this? I know the dealer did the tire rotation at 10k, would that have caused it?
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My 2010 Tiguan R-Line only experiences vibration in the steering wheel noticeably at 70mph plus. The tyres were brand new when i collected the car in July this year and the alloys have been balanced since having the existing alloy weights replaced with new ones in August. What the problem could be and how best to resolve this nagging issue.
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I currently drive a 2011 Comfortline 6M. I notice that when i drive over rough terrain (roads, curbs, speedbumps) that i feel a weird vibration in the brake pedal and don't have any braking control. I have also noticed this in heavy rain conditions.
(Note: I have taken the vehicle to have the brakes checked at the dealer and they cannot find an issue. It also feels different than the ABS)
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From time to time I get this high vibration on start-up of the car. It almost seems like more of the engine noise and vibration is coming through to the cabin. It only lasts about 5 seconds from initial start up and the rpm does not change and stays constant. This only happens maybe once every other week or once a month. What or why this could be happening?
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I can unlock my car and open all the doors except the drivers door but when I am inside I can open it. Seeing as its extremely annoying having to open my back door and reach inside to open my front...
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I'm not sure if this is just my unit, if so maybe I will talk to the dealer, but I noticed that the door 'rattles' when you close it while the windows are rolled down. This is true of all the doors.
I think basically the glass from the rolled down window shakes about when the door is slammed shut. You end up hearing the rattle and the general feeling is cheap. Other than that, the door feels solid if the windows are rolled up. I think maybe rolling it down, the window has less points of support on the free end. So it becomes looser and can rattle around. But when the window is rolled up, it has its free end fixed so it doesn't rattle.
So is it just my unit or does yours do that too? I noticed some cheaper cars I've either rented or test drove do this too. I believe the unit I test drove at the dealer did this too so maybe it is universal for all pre-2016 Tiguans?
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Here is what happens, lock the car with the remote, walk up and pull door handle(outside), the door opens like it was not locked and no alarm sounds. The other three doors are secured as normal and do not open when the car is locked.
Who knows how long this has been the case, I just tried the door by chance the other day and it opened. I was quite surprised. Other note, the car was parked at the airport for two weeks outside at the airport from about dec 20 to after the new year, it has also been very cold her recently.
First thought was that it could be frozen, but we had one day where it was in the 30s and the car was in the sun so if that was the case I thought it would have freed up. No go.
I took the car to the dealer on Wednesday, they call me today, Thursday, and say the tech could not replicate the issue, but that there have been several Passat and Golf in that had frozen locks from water intrusion. They say a field engineer was through the other day and said VW has developed a plastic cover for inside the door to prevent that and will be or has issued a TSB for those models but not the Tiguan yet.
I call the regular guy when I return to work to explain what happened and express my disbelief. He suggested maybe some water got in during the car wash and froze it up again? Maybe... Now I have to call them back on Monday to see if there are any updates on a fix.
What it is? Water intrusion, bad latch, lock module? Anything else I can try aside from waiting around for them to get a clue? We only have on street parking so it would be nice if the car locked.
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