Tiguan :: Coolant Light Flashing In Cold Weather (-10˚C)
Dec 1, 2012
Today was the worst weather ever since the Tiguan left the factory, it was -10˚C and it was parked outside.
When I turned the car on, the coolant light was flashing with a beeping sound. The indicator was acting normally and it stopped in the middle as usual when I drove about 8KM.
I then stopped and turned the car OFF and then ON after a few minutes and it was gone.
I searched and many people said something about topping up the coolant fluid. To me, this doesn't make sense because it only happened to them and I when the weather was cold.
Is there anything to worry about? the car is still new with 12,xxxKM.
Here is an image ...
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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I have a 96 MK3 as well that would run badly in the rain until I changed out the Electronic Coil. Got so I would carry spares with me.
Is it the same fix for the MK4 2.0? I've also read about using epoxy or JB Weld to coat the coils and keep the water out. Does that work for the MK4 Ignition coil?
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Removed all the bulbs and replaced them with the OEM incandescent ones and still the same issue. The bulbs in the map lights would flicker on an off. How I can fix?
Already took the Tiguan to the dealer and they scanned it for codes and nothing. Of course when I was there the lights worked perfectly fine.
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Went on a trip up to MI in cold and snow, and the engine light comes on. Great, I'm thinking, figuring me, the wife and our two babies stranded in another quality VW product. We pull over and call the closest dealer on the cell, and they say to just ignore it unless its flashing. When I got home, I vagged it and it says the cats were below their operational limit - I'm guessing too cold?
Whats the deal here? Can I look forward to engine lights everytime I go out in the cold? (this car is slowly driving me nuts. How can it be so bad and my Audi so good?)
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2010 Tiguan S FWD
My coolant temp light comes on randomly. It blinks and a sound beeps three times. After it stops beeping, the light continues to blink.
It doesn't come on all the time. It is very random. I connected the VAG-COM to see if there were any stored faults, but there were none.
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1999.5 Jetta 2.0 Lit, engine 186000 miles, bough it few months ago and this issue is driving me crazy.
Engine Light "ON" and "OFF" depending on weather conditions.
On my , No Engine Light in Cold and humid weather. When weather is hot the light goes ON.
I was thinking on changing the O2 sensor(the one after the catalytic) I do not know if this will solve my problem,
I will like to change the oil, it is using regular 10/30 SAE what grade and kind will be suggested?.
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i have a 2002 camry le .. my door ajar dash light comes on when the car has been sitting for 2-3 plus hours in cold weather 30 degrees or below ... its draining my battery .. tried lubricating door latches on all 4 doors and has not worked, came back 3 hrs later and door warning light on dash came back on ..
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The past two days when I went to warm up my car, when I got back in it to leave I noticed the engine coolant light flashing. I checked the book and it just says if its flashing to contact the dealer. I have already done so for my next maintenance anyway. It has been around 10 degrees out both times when i started it. 2012 GTI with 9300 miles. Also, if you turn the car off, and start it back up, it does not come back on..
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I have a question regarding my 06 Passat 2.0.
This morning I started up the car and immediately the car has a coolant light on in the top row of the MFD (thermometer in a few little waves, I assume coolant.)
Temperatures dropped below -10F last night and were about -4F when the car was started. My thought was a freeze plug, but no AF puddle when I parked the car and the AF level in the overflow tank was where it was the last time I checked. It's cold enough the car never reached the normal operating temp during 20 mins or so of city driving.
Am I correct in assuming this is a coolant level warning? I can't imagine I'd be getting a temperature warning when the block is 0F.
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I don't want to check my psi in the tires with a tire gauge because I was told a valve stem can freeze open in extreme cold letting the tire to go completely flat.
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Whenever the temperature is below 20 degrees F and am idling at a stop light, if I have the heater fan running I get a horrible exhaust smell inside my car. I have discovered that I can lessen the bad smell by turning off the fans when the car is idling and then turning it back on when I start to drive.
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I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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I was driving home from work on Tuesday and I saw a message flash across the MFD saying that I needed to check coolant and consult owner's manual. Also the coolant light was constantly flashing. I was quarter mile from my house so I just drove home, checking the temp to make sure it was ok. I got home and opened the hood to see no coolant in the reservoir, but there was some in the hose. I was like "ok cool I just bought this car 3 months ago but not a big deal." I also looked on the ground under my car quickly and there wasn't a leak. I happen to live about 500' from a VW dealership so called them up and they said bring it over.
When I got there the SA came out and took a look and said to give him 5 to fill it up and I'd be on my way. As I'm waiting in the lounge, I notice a puddle on the ground under my car. I told him about it and he confirmed coolant leak. But because I didn't buy the car from them, they wouldn't give me a loaner, so I had them fill it up and I took a ride to where I bought the car (30 mins away). Now I'm driving a new Jetta. I got the call from Balise yesterday (the dealership I bought it from) and they said my radiator core was defective internally, they overnighted a part and they started fixing it yesterday morning. Since it's such an involved job, only a master tech can do it and there might not be one there today (which I have to check on around noon) so I might not get it back until Tuesday. But I really can't complain (other than the fact that it's a brand new car), I have a car to drive and it's being fixed properly.
It probably was that damn lowerthanzimmy sticker. I realize defective parts are made, they can't catch all of them before they're installed.
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My Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
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I have a 99 Chevy Lumina. The car periodically flashes the low coolant light. I check it and its fine. I don't know if its related to my recent problem. A couple of days ago, my car wouldn't start. All the lights and stuff come on, but there is no clicking or even trying to start. I kept trying. It wouldn't work. I left it alone to make some phone calls. I messed with it again after a little while and it started. It has been running until today. It started, I got my son to daycare. Then when I tried to start the car to leave, it did the same thing again. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and it started again.
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Well, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
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For months now, my 99 Grand Am,just over 100k, has been flashing "low coolant" light and chiming - only when stopped at red lights (idling), and then as soon as I put my foot back on the accelerator it stops and turns off. This doesnt happen at every red light, or everytime I drive the car - but often enough that its concerned me. At first I immediately checked the coolant & took it to be checked for a leak...apparently everything looked fine and it wasnt low on coolant.
The second time (took in for tune up) I mentioned it again and they claim nothing is wrong but said they cleaned/checked electric connectors in case it was due to faulty misfiring. Seemed okay for awhile, but now light has been flashing again. Im also not sure if its related, but Ive been noticing a tendency for the car to sometimes idle very rough as well. At one red light the car starting rocking/jerking - only to stop once I started driving again. Other than these problems when idling, the car runs like a dream. Where to look for this problem or what I should be watching for?
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S4. The a/c light on the dashboard switch (2002 V6) started flashing when the light should be solid steady light plus No Cold Air. I Google it and it directs me to several sites, people are saying just change the cabin filter and that often fixes it and if not change the a/c relay (disconnect the battery first they pointed out).
I got a new cabin air filter from O'Reilly for $14. (The PurolaterC35479 "breathe easy" fits 2002-2007 camry) To change it just empty your glove box and leave the door down. On the right side of the glove box hinge there's one philips screw. Remove that and wobble down the right side then pull out the glove box door.
Look straight in at the firewall behind that now you can see the slot the filter goes in its about 1" high by 8" wide. Yank out the old filter and carefully note the orientation of it as it comes out. Shove in your new filter. Replace glove box.
The light did not go out at first. It took about ten minutes running the fan turning the a/c switch off and on while driving but the a/c light finally stopped flashing and changed to a solid green light again, and the cold air came back.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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