Tiguan :: Clanking / Knocking Noise Going Through Right Turns
Jan 30, 2011
Just want to share a problem I recently noticed on my Tiguan. Its a 2010 4motion I bought March last year and currently has 19000km.
Lately I noticed it makes a clanking sound in the front area as I accelerate off a right turn. It always does it on right turns and on rare occasions on left turns as well.
It doesn't do it if I turn right coming from a complete stop and happens only when I slow down coming up to a right turn and it makes the sound as I accelerate.
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More times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
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So in the last few weeks I've been getting a hard knocking noise from the left front wheel-well, it's very repetitive if I turn the wheels to the left and drive.
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I've been hearing a clicking/knocking noise when i make turns recently and was wondering if it could just be hums in need of replacement... I have a 2002 Passat, so I think its a bit early for it to go but ya never know. If they are the hubs, what causes them to wear out so quick and around how much they'd be to replace (in parts...labor varies). The noise is only when I turn, no noise at all when driving straight.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
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I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
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--2003 Mountaineer 4.0/4WD 194,000 -- My mountaineer is making a loud, metallic, rapid "clanking" sound on slow max turns. It seems to be coming from the transfer case. Would that be possible? I recently changed the front wheel bearings and ball joints and the sway bars look good. There is no noise at idle and it will occasionally make a similar noise while going straight, then stop during the turn.
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My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
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The car is a 1997 pontiac sunfire 4 cyl 2.4L.When the car is turned on it makes a sound like the one in the mp3 file that I've attached. Some other symptoms I've noticed is a very slight loss of power while accelerating, and whenever I pull up to a stop and the engine gets into the idle rpm range (800-1000) the oil light comes on and the rpm dips to about 400 and sometimes the engine dies. The engine is also running very very hot, although I haven't driven the car in about 2 months and it's 100 degrees outside, not sure if that's related.
What I have tried so far is replacing the oil and filter, and adding 2/5 a pint of seafoam engine additive for 4 quarts of oil as per the instructions on the bottle. I did this because I suspected it was a stuck lifter, but after driving it for 30 miles with no improvement I'm starting to think otherwise.
As some of you may know I'm not entirely mechanically inclined and that's why I'm here, sometimes I get posts from people who insist I shouldn't be anywhere near an engine but let's try to keep those negative posts off my thread.
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My GTI knocks everytime i acceletate hard from a full stop. The car is chipped stage 1+ from unitronic, apr intake. Everything else is stock, 80.000 km. the sound comes from the front right wheel. I believe it is a top plate, but I'm not too sure.
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1994 grand cherokee when making tight turns as in parking lots or backing out of tight spots, knock knock knocks until wheels are straightened and only while in motion could this be u-joints, by the way this jeep is all time 4-wheel drive
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Just like the title says, I have a 2013 Tiguan. When I park and turn off the Tiguan, I will hear the the parking brake activate and then turn it back off immediately. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen.
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Ok I'm new here but I'll keep it simple. Driving around nyc (crazy winter weather lately) car started making a clanking noise every so often from the hood. (note it was getting harder to steer i have awd) Pulled over, it looked fine, kept driving, all of a sudden few blocks later a LOUD metal clashing noise came from under the hood. Pulled over turned the car off. Now the car starts fine, but the car makes that noise every time i shift to Forward/Reverse. Neutral is fine. Tranny went out? The car wont move....
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6 weeks ago my 2012 Tiguan, that I had only had for 7 months) was hit. I was sitting at a light and rear ended. Has been in shop getting the almost 10K damaged fixed while I drove a rental. Most of damage was to the rear drivers side and underneath as it messed up tire and all connected parts underneath. Body man was excellent and ordered all new parts and it looks perfect with no alignment issues, (which I was most worried about). I was so happy to get my Tiguan back home but it was short lived. Drove home, about 70 miles, then another 60 during the day and all was find except a little noise under the hood.
This noise is pretty normal as the Tiguan is somewhat loud going up hill and such. Later that evening we go in to leave and it wouldn't start. Just turns over and clicks/grinds somewhat, loudly then shuts down. Hasn't started in 2 days now. Right before we parked it the check engine light came on and the fuel was a bit low, but not empty. We added more gas, checked oil, etc. Three lights come one when you try to start it, battery, engine, and EPC. We have used a scanner and received codes for POO16 Crank Shaft Position/CAm Shaft position correlation/bank 1 sensor A. Not sure what to do at this point because it could be several different things and the nearest dealer is 75 miles away.
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Hearing a "metallic knocking"-like sound coming from the pillar-area behind the driver and/or passenger seats? See this thread: [URL] ....
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Sometimes when I shift from first to second and second to third I hear a clanking noise coming from under the car. It happens when I move the stick and clutch pedal is fully depressed. Doesn't happen all the time and doesn't happen in gears 4-6. Something I should be worried about? Car is stock and has about 1k miles. It's been doing this since I bought it.
Also get a deeper boom noise coming from back sometimes when depressing clutch petal when under boost. Think this is normal tho? My BMW used to do the same thing.
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So I always have the radio on so I rarely hear subtle noise like this, but lately I have tried to track down this noise I have been hearing.
Every time I back out of my garage, I would obviously have it from Park to Reverse...when I put it in D from R....there is clunking noise right after the first gear...
It goes first gear, than this clanking noise then 2nd gear....It almost sounds like a motor mount? I hope its something not too bad as a mount.
It only happens when engine is cold and it seems to only happen that one time I go from 1 to 2 right after R..
It's sound like a grinding metal but real quick...like something crushing.
I have done ATF flush at 30, 60, and 90; the 90k was done just about two months ago.
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I just had some H&R springs installed and my front suspension is making a funny noise.
It sounds like the front springs are clanking around..
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Two months ago I started getting a clanking noise from the right front when I accelerated from a stop, or stopped and moved the car backwards from forwards or vice versa. I pulled the wheel and noticed pretty work brake pads, with the inboard pad completely shot. Car has 34k miles. The left side inboards and outboards were about 50% worn and were worn evenly. Sure enough, I had a sticking lower slide pin on the right. I cleaned everything up and lubed all contact points, and replaced pads and clips. I removed, cleaned and re-lubed all slide pins and holes with the appropriate silicone brake lube, and confirmed that they are siding freely. The problem is that this worked, but did not completely eliminate the problem. The noise still happens about 1 out of every 5-10 starts once the car starts to roll after the brake pedal is released. The rim seems to rotate ok when jacked up and I am not getting a pull. A mechanic buddy of mine said that in these cases he just ends up replacing the whole caliper.
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I got my front two tires changed to Hankook ventus Evo v12 and i went up a size from 225/40 18 to 235/40 18.
For about 300 miles everything was normal but the last 250 miles wasnt. Every time I rotate my steering wheel, left or right, theres a loud clanking noise (after half a turn of the steering wheel). Metal on metal sound.
I dont feel like this is a result of the tire changes but it might be.
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2010 with 61000 kilometers.
Yesterday morning it was a rainy and damp weather around 3-4 degrees Celsius when I started my Prius. Usually I start it up, get out and have a cigarette or something before driving so that the ICE has a minute or two to warm up. Immediately after the ICE fired up I heard a very loud clanking and vibrating sound. I immediately shut the car down, checked all fluid levels and read the codes. No codes, no warning lights. Fired it up again, same thing. This time I opened the hood and went to see what's going on. The ICE made this noise and vibrated like hell. After a few second though the clanking and vibrating slowly went away and it started to sound normal again.
Scared the living crap out of me! This hasn't happen before or since. I had like 2-3 40km drive cycles after that on the same day with no problems. The day before I had to move the car just a bit, and when doing that the ICE came on just before I turned the car off. No codes, no warning lights. First thing that comes to mind was a misfire that vibrated the engine like crazy, maybe due to the damp weather effecting spark plugs or a flooded cylinder that was due to the only a few seconds of engine running the day before.
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