I have a 2010 Tiguan and the check engine light has come on. When I use my ODB scan tool it doesn't find any codes and the check engine light won't go on. What might be the problem?
View 5 RepliesYesterday, while cleaning my Tig, my check engine light came on. I didn't know what it could be so I checked my oil. Sure enough, it was low. I actually checked the oil maybe 3 weeks ago and it was fine. I was looking at my instrument cluster at an angle and I couldn't see one. Since, I decided to check for fault codes too, none showed up.
View 10 RepliesNew 2012 Tiguan S with a manual, 800 miles and the check engine light comes. Seems to idle a little rough, at least the idle seems to fluctuate a bit. The real disappointing part is I took it in to the dealer expecting an easy fix within an hour, its now been at the dealer for 2.5 days and they'll have it over the weekend as well. They tried putting several parts in it, still didn't fix it. They called VW who said pull out the new parts, put back the old parts, and apply some software update. Dealer did that, still not fixed.
View 7 RepliesWent to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
I was in cruise control at 50 and pressed and held the increase speed button to pass a car and once i got to 55 and still holding it the check engine light flashed twice a second until i released the increase speed button. Are you not suppose hold that button? Could this be APR related? I also noticed that the speed doesn't matter, it could be at any speed just hold it for like 5 seconds...
View 4 RepliesMy '05 Prius check engine light has been on for a while now, at first it would turn on for a while then turn off but now it is staying on. I took it to AutoZone and they ran a diagnostic and it returned the codes P1121, P1123, P1150, P1116.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
I've had a 2005 Prius for almost 2 year and 50,000 miles now and had no problems. Recently I decided to do an inverter recall and them some "necessary" maintenance (TB, transaxle fluid, etc). How I have an intermittent CEL, P1112 (Intake air temp sensor) coming on every other day. Before I thought Autozone had another DTC detected (1121 It had something to do with a coolant stacked too high?)
What are the most common check engine light (CEL) or DTC codes and how to deal with them?
The Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
View 1 RepliesMy '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
View 9 RepliesWell I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
View 1 RepliesA couple of weeks ago the check engine light came on and when I had the codes checked it showed a problem with the EGR valve. I replaced it and the light went off. A week later the check engine light came back on but when I had the error codes checked there weren't any. After a few days the light went off but earlier today it came back on. There are still no error codes.
I forgot to mention that it's a 2000 Camry, 6-cyl.
I have a 2005 Prius with 131k miles. The check engine light came on. I had my mechanic check for codes, he had 3different scanners. There were no codes posted. Next day light went off. It has been off for a week. Now it has returned.
View 5 RepliesCheck engine light on, these are the codes, can't find anywhere? Seems to run fine. '07 fsi V-8.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius that I purchased used last year. It has just shy of 139,000 miles on it. Recently the check engine light came on, and I dropped by AutoZone to have them pull the codes. They are as follows:
C1241
P1121
P3193
I haven't been able to find a full explanation of the codes online, so I need to know what they mean, how much it would cost to fix, and how urgent the repair is. I will be going on a 5 1/2 hour road trip next week, so I want to make sure I'm not going to break my car (or myself!) by doing so with the engine light on.
I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light popped up the other day and when ran, 3 codes popped up: p2414, p2195, and p0170. From what I could gather it looks to be the O2 sensor is bad. This would be the one on the exhaust manifold, correct?
Also, what would cause the o2 sensor to go bad in the first place? My 09' has roughly 65k miles.
My 2008 just showed the light at 108,000 kms. Its a long drive to the dealers. My old Hondas would flash a code number in the instrument cluster if I shorted out a pin under the dash. Is there a way to do this with the Fe?
View 6 RepliesHave an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.