Every VW I've owned has incorporated a central locking feature (i.e. - You hold the key in the off position, and it closes the windows and sunroof). Does our car not have that option? I though I heard somewhere that if you hold the alarm set button in the key fob that it'll close everytihgn, but that doesn't work.
View 9 RepliesI was wondering if it's possible to get my windows to all close when I press my central locking on my Passat? It's a 2001 B5.5 model with front and rear electric windows. Is it possible and if so how?
View 6 RepliesI am trying to set my locking system so that one touch on the remote (lock or unlock) will control both doors and the hatch, instead of having selective unlocking; I can't find this in the MFD menus, and I can't seem to access Controller 46 through VCDS, or anywhere else I'd expect to find that function. but where to change this setting?
View 22 RepliesI'm having some problems with my tailgate (boot) handle. At the moment the boot 'intermittently' works with the central locking. If it doesn't unlock then I have to use the keyfob to open/close a few times before the handle opens the boot. Fortunately it works every time with the key. I must stress that I've never used the key in the boot. The boot lock is set to work with the opening/closing of the central locking. So this problem is NOT user error.
I have posted some pictures of the problem I've now seen with the mechanism. Ok so in the above picture, you can see that I've put a black arrow pointing at the 'latch' in it's correct position.
When you operate the central locking via the keyfob (or inside the car), it pushes the electrical popper (to the left) which rotates the mechanism CLOCKWISE, and in doing so, it pushes the LATCH across so that it can connect with the boot handle
In the following picture, you can see how the 'LATCH' isn't moving across to the position in the first pic. This is why my boot can't open with the central locking.
I must make clear that the electric popper is doing the job as it should. There is nothing wrong with it's function. The problem is the latch is not rotating (clockwise) into it's correct position. It can be moved by hand easily.
The problem could be solved by attaching a spring to the latch, so it pulls downwards. But I cannot understand why or what has stopped it from working as it should. The latch moves fine if you use the key in the lock, so at the moment, the only way to make it open is either open/close the central locking 10times, or use the car key.......
My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
View 5 RepliesHad this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
I have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
Every time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
View 5 RepliesI took my tiguan to get the tires changed for winter and the place stripped out one of the locking lugs, how to get it off. They said take it and get it taken off and replaced and they will reimburse me but right now there is no one open to do it, how to get it off?
View 10 RepliesHere is what happens, lock the car with the remote, walk up and pull door handle(outside), the door opens like it was not locked and no alarm sounds. The other three doors are secured as normal and do not open when the car is locked.
Who knows how long this has been the case, I just tried the door by chance the other day and it opened. I was quite surprised. Other note, the car was parked at the airport for two weeks outside at the airport from about dec 20 to after the new year, it has also been very cold her recently.
First thought was that it could be frozen, but we had one day where it was in the 30s and the car was in the sun so if that was the case I thought it would have freed up. No go.
I took the car to the dealer on Wednesday, they call me today, Thursday, and say the tech could not replicate the issue, but that there have been several Passat and Golf in that had frozen locks from water intrusion. They say a field engineer was through the other day and said VW has developed a plastic cover for inside the door to prevent that and will be or has issued a TSB for those models but not the Tiguan yet.
I call the regular guy when I return to work to explain what happened and express my disbelief. He suggested maybe some water got in during the car wash and froze it up again? Maybe... Now I have to call them back on Monday to see if there are any updates on a fix.
What it is? Water intrusion, bad latch, lock module? Anything else I can try aside from waiting around for them to get a clue? We only have on street parking so it would be nice if the car locked.
I've just acquired a 2015 Tiguan TSI.
I'd like to turn the auto locking 'feature' off. By this I mean the doors locking at 7MPH.
I'm a long-time VAG-COM user, and have performed this operation on a couple of previous vehicles, but the Central Locking controller isn't accessible on this car.
VCDS reports 'no response from controller' after three attempts.
What are the steps to remove the central console off? I am going to replace my airbag control module.
Remove the silver one first or remove the black trim first? I already removed the four screws , front 2 and back 2.
My central diffuser he stopped working, some one have some instructions, maybe fotos how to change this part??
View 1 RepliesIt happened today the Differential Lock light is on, I feel the difference right away on the parking lot and start nervous, could not figure out what is the light do. Pull the manual and read, found out the switch is below the steer. I guess my knee might touch the button!
Anyway, push the button, the light starts blinking, not turning off! What to do? Eventually find out the trick is to drive a few feet on the parking lot, the light is magically off!
I own a 2010 Prius that now has over 90K under its belly (got it new at around September 2009).
While driving at night all of a sudden the central LCD panel (Odometer) shut down. The right panel is perfectly fine.
Is there a solution?
The 3rd central brake light is not working. I looked at the manual to find where the fuse is but could not find it.
View 13 RepliesAbout 2 weeks ago I was driving along and my entertainment/control center began to reboot itself about every 2 minutes or so. When it reset itself it would often times be unable to be used meaning that say if I had the climate control up I could not adjust anything with the knob or button and could not control any of the stereo controls along the bottom either. Is this an issue of needing my battery replaced or is this a faulty and malfunctioning infotainment center?
View 7 RepliesI got an 07 LS460 without navi but it still comes with a screen. Last week, the display started to work only intermittently and got pretty pissed. Last night was driving without the screen, but when a passenger stepped in, the jolt kinda made it work all over again. However, this morning it didn't work again.
I brought it to the stealership today and they claimed that the fuses are all working and its the screen that is spoiled and has offered to replace it for about 12kUSD. What do you recommend me doing. But first I am gonna try to remove the battery for 20mins tonight to see if it gets better.