Tiguan :: Car Battery Died Suddendly After A Long Trip
Oct 25, 2010
Yesterday night I got back from a tired long trip and forgot the light nob on fog light position. This afternoon I went out to the car the battery is dead.
I asked dealer but they claim this is a feature to leave side lights on if I left light nob at fog/side position while key is removed. I used to own a 2009 Corolla with auto light, it always turn off all lights regardless light switch position after key is removed.
Car model is 2010 Tiguan Hightline / SEL
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2008 Prius gen ll.. I had to take an unplanned out of state trip this week. For most of the highway time (2 days each way at +/- 65mph) the hybrid battery was almost always fully charged(green bars). The arrow every few seconds pointed towards the battery indicating charging even though the battery showed all green bars. Every now and then, several times per minute it would out pulse a short blast of energy to the system but not enough to bring it down to blue bars.
MPG was down about 10% . P>G didn't seem to except when I was in town. Taking my foot off the gas pedal didn't always result in the 99.9 indication unless I was going down an incline. I went from Northern Michigan to South Louisiana so temperature wasn't the culprit. The only thing different is that my 12v ignition battery failed just before leaving and the dealership replaced it.
At normal speeds, when I pulled off the interstate for gas/food/sleep the system worked OK, blue bars charging and discharging and good gas mileage. P&G worked normally. I've had this car for 5 years now and only a few times over that period have I noticed the hybrid battery fully green.
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My girlfriend has a Tiguan, and I noticed there are no key holes anywhere in the car. I noticed this after leaving the lights on in my GTI and having to manually key in to gain access to the car.
What happens if she were to leave her lights on? Is there a separate battery source for the keyless entry? I have to think there's something smarter (than me) to keep you from getting totally locked out of your car if your battery should die...
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Among other issues that have been happening with our tig, the battery crapped out. Replaced the battery no problem. The drivers side auto up and down stopped working but that was an easy fix.
When the battery died we noticed the chirp wasn'tt happening when you lock the car. Back left door isn't locking or unlocking with either the fob or any buttons on doors. The lock buttons on the affected door either, but the window works fine.
This seems like the battery dying caused it, is there some way to reset it like the auto up?
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2009 Civic has an intermittent ac during long distance trips. About 1hour into a trip it feels warm I turn the blower up higher. I can turn it to the highest setting and it sounds like it's blowing at full blast but no air is coming out at all. I turn the ac off completely for 45 mins to an hour to "thaw" then it comes back on. Dealer had it 6 times now only once they were able to replicate the problem. The blower motor, expansion valve & termistor have been replaced.
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Got a leak that just developed after a long trip. It's not big, but I am not sure what it could be? I see in front of the rad is a smaller looking rad, and in front of that behind the grill in the bumper is an even smaller radiator-radiator-looking box. I see two small hoses coming out of it, down under the rads but above that metal brace. Does that hold coolant? Or one of the other radiators?
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I just took a long road trip from Tampa, FL to Houston, Texas and back to Tampa in 5 days. I get 38.9 MPG according to car computer after 2287 miles. My prius is equipped with FRS wheel, 215/50/17 Continental Procontact Ecoplus, Air pressure is 50psi on front and rear. I wonder how much other Prius owners get? I heavy on my foot. I usually keep the speed 75-80mph. The result is also included total ~15 hours idle since I had one night sleep in the car.
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I am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
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We have a 2012 Nissan Altima. There have been 3 times that it would not start -all times were after a long drive and a trip to the coast! Battery is fine. Nissan dealership could find nothing wrong. Why this is happening ? Is it possible this is a censor /salt problem?
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My battery had died and i purchased a new one. Once i had put it into the car i noticed the trip computer no longer worked. The time reset to 12:00 like expected but i can no loner change the time. Its still illuminated at night but i can no longer monitor gas mileage etc. I looked in the manual but could find no answer. Is there a way to reset it?
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The past week I have noticed my battery cooling fan running constantly on all highway trips - 20 mile one-way trips going 65-70MPH.
The performance of the battery doesn't seem be degraded, but it seems like the battery is hopping more between charging cycle or whatever you would call it , where you watch the instantaneous MPG on the highway drop down for 10 seconds to 40-50, then back up to 60-70.
The car is a 2011 Prius III. It did not run like this earlier in the summer in the same weather conditions, I would hear the fan maybe once every few weeks in hot 90 degree weather. Now I hear it constantly. This is my first summer owning the Prius so this may be normal, but I wanted to double check with you all if this is a sign of premature traction battery death or something.
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If you remove the battery contact (effectively removing power to the car) does the trip odometer reset? Just wondering, as I plan on doing a relay install for my HID setup.
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I drove my car on a short road trip yesterday. We drove 75 miles to one direction, were there for 5 hours and then came back on the same 75 miles. Everything was fine.
Now when I got home I went to sleep. I got up 7 hours later and went to go check on my car. It was locked as I always leave it and the keys were not in the ignition. But there was a distinct electronic sound coming from the battery. Like a small motor running. It was odd.
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Having issue with E-Brake when car has been park for a long time. Mine makes noise every time I leave my car park for a long time, like as if the brakes are stuck on the rotor. It would make a noise as if my rotors were rusty, and would diminish after the car has been driven around town for quite some time, but does not completely go away.
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Just had my 2012 die on me briefly in a parking lot. I was backing out of my parking space, put the car in drive and when I stepped on the gas...engine died. The battery light was on, but all electronics in the car seemed to be working fine. It then started right back up after I put it in park.
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I have a 2012 Tiguan that's about 2 1/2 years old now, and, naturally, just shy of my 40k mile service window. For the most part, it's driven flawlessly. Today, after driving for about an hour and a half, it randomly died, and the alternator light came on. Ironically, this happened just a few hundred feet from my house, and it essentially agreed to limp home at about 15 mph until it got into my driveway, at which point the power steering gave out. I put it in park, turned it off and took out the key, waited about 30 seconds (a lifetime of PC troubleshooting is hard to ignore) and restarted, with no issues or warning lights. I don't have any OBD tool to pull the codes right now.
I can get it into the dealer probably by Friday, but I have two days of needing to go to a customer that's 40 miles away. I'm concerned about this happening at highway speeds, rather than on an empty residential street. To be fair, I had been driving a while, it's the warmest day of the year, and I had the A/C on and off throughout the drive, as well as radio and my iphone charging (nothing unusual, though). Any thoughts on if I should seriously worry about driving it around the next two days, or if it was likely a fluke?
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I need to get my oil cooler replaced but that's besides the fact. I drove it on a little trip the other night ran fine. Then went to start it after i was done with what i was doing turned it over didn't start the first time. Cycled the key and cranked it again. Started up drove it back home on the high way no spitting or sputters got off the high way it started idling like crap and shaking as i accelerated but made it home. Let it sit over night and day (was at work) got home to start it and it fired up no problem but still idled funny.
Revved it a couple times and it seemed to clear up so i took it around the block. Floored it and it ran like it was suppose to then go to the other side of the block floored it again and it had no power and sounded like it was running on 4 cylinders. Pulled it back in the driveway idled weird and cleared up again went down the street and floored it ran like a scaled ape and then just died. tried cranking it over and nothing finally got it to start after holding the ignition on ran and then died again. Got it pushed home and decided to fire again after a VERY long crank and it idled for a couple minutes very horrible and died on its own and hasn't started since.
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How long should I expect my 2006 Prius (bought new in early 2007) battery to last? Right now I am at 52K miles after 3 years driving.
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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How long should 12V battery last in accessory mode?
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I am currently on vacation, and will be here for another 2 weeks (3 total). I live in the midwest, and my car is currently parked at O'Hare Airport. I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 42k miles, full synthetic oil, and a 3 year old battery. Will I have any issues when I go to start it upon my return home?
The car always seems to fire right up, and with these warmer temps, I am thinking I'll be ok, but thought I would ask. I just kind of want to know if I should be looking for someone to jump me when I get back to my car.
Last, in warmer temps, in the garage, with a good battery, how long can a car usually sit for without being started? Also, if I start the car and just let it idle for 5-10 minutes, will that recharge the battery, or do I need to actually drive the car and get my speeds above 60mph?
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