Tiguan :: CEL On - P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Switch Code
Jul 17, 2014
I have a 2011 Tiguan S 4Motion with just over 63k Miles which for the most part has been problem free and great to drive since I leased it at 40k miles. About 2 weeks ago my CEL came on and I used the Torque app on my phone to check the code and it was the apparently well known P2015 intake manifold runner position switch code. The car was running perfectly fine so I cleared the code and it stayed off for about a week before coming back on with the same fault again yesterday. I have a couple of questions for the much more knowledgeable than I people in this forum around this code.
First - I've read in several places that VW has placed an extended warranty on the manifold and fuel injectors for the 2.0 TSI and that this code is usually an indicator that the manifold needs to be replaced under this warranty. What I haven't found though is conclusive info on is whether the 2.0T in my 2011 Tiguan is covered under this extended warranty. Since this code so conveniently is popping up just 3k miles past the end of my 60K mark, I'd like to know this. I leased the car from Enterprise, not a dealer so I'm worried that whatever dealer I take it too will try to bend me over on the service so the knowledge that the manifold is still covered would be at least some comfort.
Second - I won't be able to get it in to a service department until mid next week and I have a 300 mile trip to make this weekend. The car is driving fine as far as I can tell so I'm not overly concerned. I do my own basic maintenance i.e. oil changes, plugs/coil packs etc. but I'm thinking changing the manifold would be a little bit out of my comfort zone..
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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I have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
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Had a P2015 code today on my 2009 Tiguan. Does this mean I have to replace the entire manifold ?
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Check Engine Code P2006 intake manifold runner control stuck on closed? Taking it in to have it checked out.
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Well, I had a check engine light that lasted only three days then it cleared itself without any intervention. I checked it with a vag-com and I discovered there was an issue with the intake manifold control. I ended up bringing it to the dealer since it is a fairly new passat, and the service department informed me that the Intake Manifold Runner Control needed to be replaced.
Below were the fault codes.
3 Faults Found:
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 33815 km
Time Indication: 0
[Code] .....
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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Today I was on my way back home from a weekend trip to see family when the CEL came on. The car was running fine no problems (we had driven 200 miles). Gas mileage was good, good power, no weird noises, engine temp was fine (it was 100 degrees outside). But being how the car has 39k on it and its the most expensive thing I own; I pulled over and had autozone scan it for me. It came up as Intake Manifold Sensor. I have never worked on this car but Im going to at some point, I'll replace it myself if it isn't to hard. I am wondering if it is as simple as replacing the sensor or could there be an underlying issue like a blown intake manifold gasket (like i said the car was running fine though)?
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
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Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.
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I was chasing down a P2074 CEL and thought it was a stressed wiring harness connection on the MAF.
Took it to the Ford house and they chased it for 2 days, believing it was the MAF and air filter. They told me that air filter was allowing to much air in. My thoughts was, that is was what MAF is for, to regulate the fuel based on how much air was going in.
I just found out that they are stating that an AFE dry air filter contributed to a cracked intake manifold because the aftermarket air filter made the intake get too hot.
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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I've tried to do my due diligence searching on this (I've seen many posts but most have other codes).. I have the P000A code, reads as follows-- Intake (A) Cam Position Sensor Slow Response (powertrain).
I have no misfires, hesitation rough idle, nothing. I have 94k miles and I always done my oil changes @ 5k intervals and I have not had any prior engine maintenance done to the car....
I took my R32 to the local VW dealer today and they are saying they believe it might be the time chain tensioners. I am wonder if this could be a simple sensor issue since the car runs perfectly fine, I just get the engine light coming back on after 1 to 2 weeks of clearing the code. I have had this issue since January and I thought it might be the cold weather here in WI.
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2005 GTI 1.8t Engine ... I changed my timing belt water pump and tensioner yesterday and today I am receiving an engine code: P0011 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over Advanced (Bank 1) My friend timed the engine and knew that is was 1 tooth advanced. He told me that is was going to be OK because 1.8t's have a 1 tooth tolerance. I would have redone it but I did not know how. What to do in this situation? Do I need to re time the engine?
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Driving around today my cel flashed on. Checked my programmer its saying P0022 intake camshaft position timing-over-retarded bank 2. What is the culprit?
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Headlight switch failure. '12 SEL with factory HID. While in the "Auto" mode during broad daylight, headlights will start to flash on and off. VAGCOM revealed a fault code to the headlight switch. Dealer has already replaced it once and it started again within a few days.
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Soild CEL, autozone pulled a P2015 code, but couldnt find it for VW in their system, just hyundai, toyota, dodge, and kia codes came up.
Looked around and everywhere says it's the notorious MKVI IM replacement issue.. Im under PT warranty until Nov. '15 so im good there.
Heres the catch.. sometimes it goes off without any changes to the vehicle. First thing (before the obd2 reader from autozone) i checked was my gas cap, that will cause a CEL sometimes, next time I started the car the CEL was off. the next day, without touching the gas cap since, the CEL was on again, today its off
car idles fine, drives fine, MPG are fine, pulls fine, stops fine, steers fine, everything works in the car. year: 2011
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I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
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Turned the key on my 2002 MC SS, V6, 3.8L, and the Intake Manifold exploded.
Intake Manifold Exploding on a GM V6, 3.8L? It sounded like a 12ga shotgun. Fortunately no one was looking into the engine compartment at the time as they likely would have been killed given the amount of shrapnel from this explosion. Note that the explosion was powerful enough to blow off the oil cap, which is screwed on with very thick threads.
The vehicle was at my mechanics at time and in his forty years he's not seen an intake manifold explode save for those residing on Top Fuel or Funny Cars.
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