Tiguan :: Auto Gear Shifting Past Redline When Driving At Full Acceleration
Jan 26, 2013
I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
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My wifes 2001 Accent at slow speed seems to change into its gears ok. But when at normal driving speed, it seems to hang I believe between 3rd and 4th grar. If you let off the accelerator a little, it will change, kinda hard into gear.
Also, when decelerating, it seems to "surge" when going from 2nd to 1st and almost acts like it wants to die. this is an Automatic Transmission.
Things I have tried: replaced flex exhaust and reset a P0133 error code. Condition still exist after 100+ miles of driving. Tried cleaning MAP/MAF sensor, PCV valve. It will not showing any more codes or check engine light with this current condition. I am at a loss as where to go next for diagnostics. If I just had a code # to work off of....
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My VSC and check engine light have come on. In addition now the auto trans will not shift past 4 gear with in auto or with me doing it manually. My local shop who has worked on this car before and is very good put the computer reader on it and got a P0500 for vehicle speed sensor "A". Today they put it on the real monitor and it reads a different code that says check engine code but does not reveal the code to read.
I really don't want to go to my dealer and get it hard. The car has 175,000 and until now has run great. I tried the gas cap fix to no avail. The shop did a reset when i first got there and it last 75 yards.
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I know some of us drag race our cars from time to time. I have a fair bit of bolt ons and I was just wondering what I would run so I had her out 3x yesterday. Impressed with my trap speed of almost 100mph on an 85-degree day w a stock intercooler but not my times, so much so that I don't even want to say them.
I was shifting a little after redline as quick as possible and leaving at like 3000-4000 rpm.
Is my clutch slipping or where am I going wrong?
the suspension is mostly stock as are mounts. I am sure I will get better with practice but this was a really sticky track so I really cant blame my tires
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Lately I have been driving in the Sport Mode more often. I have noticed that when accelerating from a stop it revs to just below the redline before shifitng, is this normal?
I also notice that when slowing down or coming to a stop, it has a "hurky jurky" feel. As if it was downshifiting way to early. is this normal?
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New sound today: a click that simultaneously happened when the parking light (a yellow light with a P) came on the dash as I applied my brakes. i had already put the car in park but not yet applied the electronic parking brake.
I found it odd as i had my hand on the gear selector and felt a slight tap. So while the car was still on and in park with no electronic parking brake applied, i let go of the brakes and the yellow P light went off. so i applied the brakes again, the click sound and tap feel from the gear selector and the yellow P light came back on the dash.
Never had that happen before. Applied the electronic parking brake and that little light came on as normal on its button. that's when i normally see the yellow P light up on the dash. I always use the electronic parking brake so i am not sure what page 205 in the manual is referring to when stated:
If the electronic parking brake has not been used for a while, an automatic system check will occasionally run while the vehicle is parked. this system check makes audible noises.
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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I just bought a 2003 Camry, 4 cyl (154000 mi.) and the accelerator is a DBW. It feels different than a cable in that it seems to hesitate and after it shifts into second the car accelerates on its own a little bit. This is not a rev up in between shifts, it actually feels like a lurch. It is most noticeable when speeding up slowly. I may be able to get used to it but it doesn't seem right to me. The dealer wants $120 to hook up their computer.
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Occasional clunk when truck is shifting gears. Not consistent. On highway at high acceleration clunk is more apparent. Any thoughts. 2004 v10 with new engine placed at 70,000km now at 85000km. Otherwise truck is running great.
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I have a 2007 Passat wagon 4 motion V6 and what the problem is I am getting a rough shift between 3-4 gear sometimes, usually on a slow acceleration. I have had the valve body replaced which worked for a couple of months until the problem returned. I then had the transmission replaced which worked a little but the rough shifting is still present at times. The car still has warranty and not even the dealership knows what to do?
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My wife and I recently purchased a 2013 Jetta and have noticed some abnormal lag when accelerating. It's an automatic transmission and the gear shifts aren't as smooth as they should be. I have read that it is possibly related to the drive by wire system and may just be an inherent result of that system.
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I have a 4.0 6 cyl. Jeep wrangler manual transmission. When the jeep is driven in higher RPM close to redline the jeep sputters a bit (doesn't have full power at or close to redline). Is this a governor or does the jeep have a problem? I do not redline often at all. however i live in the mountains and need to travel up steep pass for 1-2 miles every few months.
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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On my 86 caprice classic. the gas Gauge jumps to full when i turn the key even when car is started but its only like a gallon of gas in there is it the sending unit the ground or something else and is there any way to test it.
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I recently started having problems with my 98 GMC Sierra c1500. I'll be driving and all the sudden it will jerk as if it's shifted from 5th to 1st gear, but the revs don't go up, they drop to about 600 like it is about to die and then it go back to normal revs. It only does this while I'm on the gas and very rarely at idle. I don't know if it could be the transmission or something is blocking fuel from the engine.
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Seems like the problems just keep building up. Today leaving work T-reg shifts fine untill it got to 5th gear. It was around 35 mph. Went to give it more gas and it never shifted out of 5th to a lower gear. It did accelerate but even with pedal to the floor it never downshifted. Whats going on. It has done it twice in the past two days. After only having it on the road for less than 5 min each time.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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I've been noticing that my 2012 Passat TDI with 125,000 miles, hasn't been shifting to 6th gear when driving down the highway. I've actually noticed it's one gear too low even when driving down city streets. We have been experiencing extreme cold weather in Pennsylvania, so perhaps that's a factor.
If I manually shift to 6th gear, it stays in gear, but it appears that the engine RPMs are a bit lower than usual as well, but I could be wrong there.
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My passat is a 1.8t automatic with roughly 170k on it and lately i have been encountering some issues with the tranny. I have had this problem for a while and as of late it seems to be getting worse (especially with the AC on????). After driving up a hill the car seems to have difficulties shifting into the next gear on its own, typically 2nd to 3rd but sometimes 1st to 2nd, sometimes I even have to switch over to the triptronic and up shift manually.
Also when i am driving along in 4th or 5th and encounter a hill the car doesn't want to downshift on its own without giving it some pedal play, or sometimes I have to play the same game and switch over to the triptronic and downshift manually (hoping to save to tourqe converter). I dont know much about the tranny on this car, but i do know that their not cheap!
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Car starts normally sometimes. Other times it will not start at all (it sounds like the battery is dead) or it will struggle to start and once it does start the electronics in the car seem to not be getting any power.
While driving the car “clunks” into gear and the car lurches while shifting.
Background: I was driving down the freeway and then suddenly, it seemed as I was in forced into neutral. Immediately got off the freeway and examined the situation. The situation was I no longer had reverse, drive or overdrive. I had gears 1 and 2 though.
Brought the car to the local mechanic and had a used transmission installed. After installing the transmission, the car now lurches when it goes into gear, especially when it goes into drive (around 45 mph). The plan was to bring it back to the mechanic as soon as I would have time, however before that happened, my car started to struggle to start. Finally the battery died completely and I had to jump start it. After that it got a little more strange… sometimes I would have to jump start it, sometimes it would start fine, and sometimes it would start, but the car would not have enough electric power to power all the electronics in the car fully. The headlights would be dim, the interior lights would be dim, etc… Oddly enough, I could let the car sit for 30 minutes and it would start normally again.
Before bringing it back to the mechanic I would like to be more informed as to what could possibly be going on. Do I just need a new battery and all will be fine with starting? And the fact the trouble with starting is only coincidental with bringing it to the mechanic? (Note, the battery did die while it was at the mechanic). And what should I make of the transmission problem, do they need to install a different one?
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I think my transmission died today. My car wouldn't accelerate past 40 mph and a local maintenance man said there's no reverse. I think I have seen other complaints about this with the Hyundai's. What the specific problem can be? I'm going to have to have AAA tow the car to a transmission shop. I bought my car used and it's beyond 60,000.
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