Tiguan :: 2014 - AC Is Blowing Cool Air / What Is The Temperature Range
Apr 13, 2016
My AC started blowing cool air last summer.My wife who drives it daily noticed that it wasn't as cold as when we first got it.I was making an appointment to take it in when the clock spring broke and we got all sorts of lights on the dashboard.It was still under warranty when I took it in and they gave us a loaner car.They told us that they changed the compressor,clock spring(which he said was a common thing to go on cars) there was also a trouble code on the turbo. That took them the longest to fix
.They ended up replacing a sensor and then found out it was bad wiring. Fast forward almost a year later and the weather is starting to get warm again here in NYC. I tested the AC and it is blowing cool air again. This time I put a thermometer in the center vent and it is blowing about 54.8 F after 5 minutes. The outside temp was 66.F. I called the dealer and took it in after work today and the service adviser said that 54.8 F was within range.I insisted that they keep it over night and have a tech check it and also do an oil change in the morning since it has 30K miles on it.I was time for one again. My question is... what the temperature range is for the AC in my Tiguan?
I made him give my wife another loaner (2016 Jetta) and when she got home I put the same thermometer in the center vent and it was blowing 40.2 F after 5 minutes.Much colder than my Tiguan. I want to make sure that they don't recharge the AC and we make it through the summer and we will be back to the dealer next year.This time the warranty will have expired.I don't have an extended warranty.I just got a bad vibe from this guy at the dealer.
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At a certain temperature range (just below freezing, -10C to 0C) I was getting a rattle that sounded like I had a cup of dice on the top of my dash. Any slight movement would cause the dice to jostle about, in other words the rattle was constant, the slightest bump or ripple in the road, slight speed up/slow down, even relatively flat roads would cause noise. It would come and go as the temperature changed but this last week the outside temperature has been consistently in that range, so therefore while driving anywhere I had to first head towards a place called "nuts". I'm not due for any service for a while, but it was getting to the point where I was prepared to make the long drive to the dealer. First though, I tried to hunt it down myself.
Spent last night with my head under the dash looking for anything that could be that loose to make noise so easily. I noticed the TPMS reset button unit sat kind of loosely in the lower dash panel, I could make a noise shifting it about, but it was just too light and too low down to make the noise I was hearing. I did the usual reaching around applying pressure to various parts of the dash while driving. Trying to listen carefully, I decided the sound was coming from the windshield (or deflecting off of it from the dash). I tried applying pressure to it, I even put a pair of socks on the end of a yard stick to I could put some pressure at various points along the windshield / dash area. No difference.
Finally, got a bit of a hint. On the highway, passing 60mph the rattle started to abate, getting close to 75 mph the rattle almost completely disappeared. Wind pressure? On inspecting the lower part of the windshield, wipers, etc. I notice that by shifting the plastic underneath the wiper arms it would make a noise. It doesn't feel very loose, it took some effort to slightly shift it, but it did make a noise. I took my "test socks" and jammed them under the hood directly in front of the wiper, creating some downward pressure on the plastic. Silence! Golden Silence!!
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I've been enjoying my new 2013 ES300h for the last 3 months and recently noticed that the auto temp settings go from 18 C to 32 C. I find this very odd as in the summer I would very much like it to be cooler than 18C and in the winter it would be extremely uncomfortable to keep the thermostat past 28C (once the car has warmed up).
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I have noticed that my temperature gauge is indicating that usually my truck is running very cool. It seems that it is also somewhat erratic. At times it indicates what I would expect a reading in the middle of the gauge. Other times after running a while it will drop to the lower end (cool) of the gauge and stay there.
I am guessing that the thermostat is sticking open. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they maybe bad? I have a 99 ranger with a 4cyl. It looks like I have two sensors. If one is bad, how can I determine which it is?
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I have these two codes:
P0A37 - Generator temperature sensor circuit range/performance
P0A2B - Drive motor "A" temperature sensor circuit range/performance
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
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Had a question about the rear a/c cooling on my 2009 GX 470 - the last few days have been nice enough to warrant using the A/C. I noticed though, that the 4 rear vents seem to not be producing any cool air - kind of a problem when I have an overheated Boxer dog that would love some cool A/C. Any thoughts? I have the rear A/C on, all the way to the - or minus sign and the fan speed to Auto.
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All of a sudden the AC in my 2007 Passat 2.0 stopped blowing cold air. It worked great yesterday. I'm worried that it might be the compressor because I don't have the 1000+ dollars to have it replaced. I bought the car in 2009 but I'm almost sure it is out of warranty because I've put more than 50,000 miles on it. I read some posts that the AC might need to simply be recharged ?????
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New owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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My Tiguan is 2013 with 3k miles on it. There is a rattling sort of noise in the 2-3k RPM range which I think is turbo related. It is much louder when cold and quieter when warmed up. Is that normal turbo noise in the Tiguan? If so, why does it minimize when warm? And why does it not continue above 3k RPM? My Audi A4 with similar 2.0 Turbo does not make this noise.
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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My ac cool only passanger side and driver side didn't cool blow only air.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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I took my truck to a friends express lube to have some freon added to it. My truck has been blowing cool air, not cold. So i thought it might be low on freon considering its a 2000 f-150 w/ 145,000 miles. He took a pressure gauge to it and said it is over charged, the pressure was high.
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We are having an issue with the front air not blowing cool all the time. Sometimes if we hit a bump or something its like something is jogged and it blows colder but the rear air always blows cold. Also the front air blows colder with the rear air on. I put gauges on it and I have the right amount of refrigerant in it. What I can do.
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In my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
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I have this noise, and it has become very annoying as it occurs at the engine midrange rpms.
It is buzzing/howling noise that comes on above 2500-3000rpm, whether it is in gear/underload or in neutral/park. It is noticed most while in sport as it holds lower gears longer.
Electric aux water pump was replaced not so long ago. Have read about the wastegate rattle issue, but im not sure.
Took it to the dealer about two weeks ago for this and the tech said he could not even hear it on the test drive.
Here are some links of the said noise
Links: [URL] .....
2011 2.0TSI Tiptronic 4motion 170ps 55000km
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My check engine light popped on for me a couple days ago. P2043-reductant temperature sensor range/performance. Truck still runs like a raped ape, no change in driveability. Just over 21k miles. No "speed limited to 55" messages or anything else. Basically no change in the truck other than the light.
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