I've had my 2013, 3k miles Tiguan for 6 days now and I love it. However, I live in NW Connecticut, and it's hilly. I've noticed that when going down hills, the car will drop to a very low gear all of a sudden, and shoot up to 3-4k rpms. It has me really worried.
View 10 RepliesI've had my 2013 Tiguan since July and have always noticed that it needlessly wants to downshift when going down hills. For instance, I might be doing 45-50mph down a hill... it'll be in 6th or 5th gear. If I tap the break, it downshifts. If I tap it again, it'll downshift again, to THIRD gear. The RPMs will shoot up to over 4,000. This also usually occurs if I put my foot on the break and keep there. So, if I'm on hilly roads... which is often being in Northwestern Connecticut, I'll engage the tiptronic.
Am I overreacting and is this just how the '13 Tiguan functions? Or is it a common problem with a fix?
We have had our tig for a few months now and love it! however, it upshifts going down hills and revs to the moon. is that normal for the tig? Do other peoples tigs do this? In my 20 years (and my dads 40) of being in auto cars I've never had a car do this nor has he. computer problem?
View 16 RepliesOur 2012 Tiguan (FWD) has been experiencing a sudden drop in MPG for the past two weeks. We had no significant change in climate or driving habits. With mixed driving, we dropped from about 24 MPG to 20 MPG. We had our 40K service done just two weeks ago.
View 9 RepliesWhat's the best tune for this motor? I have an hs mini max with the spe hot tune and has nothing but problems towing with with it. They swore up and down for a year I was the only one with issues for a year and then finally admitted it's not good for towing and lots of people had issues with it so they gave me their towing tune for free but it isn't very good either.
The hot tune is a little too hot and keeps going into limp mode when towing up hills even on the lowest stock setting, or really getting on the throttle on any setting not to mention way too high of boost for a stock turbo at 30-32 on every level . It makes sports cars look slow before hitting limp mode though.
Their tow tune fixed that problem but it's boost is too low at only 18-19 (had 24 running stock Ford programming) and it smokes like crazy, more smoke on higher settings without getting any faster or any more boost. It doesn't smoke much on the stock setting but clearly the other settings aren't very well tuned.
I want a tune that will tow 25k without issues and smoke(not literally) sports cars off the line at factory boost level s so it doesn't blow the turbo.
I have a 2009 Tiguan Auto Diesel and have noticed recently that, when cruising along, if I take my foot off the gas pedal the revs drop to idle. The revs only pick up again if I touch the accelerator. Im sure it did not used to do this. If you feather the gas pedal to maintain a set speed (say 50mph) then this can have the effect of the rev counter dropping to idle and going up again to, say 2500 rpm all the time.
The rev counter seems to be all over the place!!! I also had a stall situation the same day. I was leaving a driveway to join a main road. The driveway is on a slight incline when exiting. I nudged up to the kerb line as normal and then took my foot off the gas to check noting as coming. Nothing was so I accellerated gently and the car stalled. I think this is related.
The Tigual Auto box is not DSG it is regular Auto and it is also 4motion. I have noticed the haldex doing its thing in D2 when pulling off, you know that weird bit where the revs drop a bit even though the gear is not changing. This is a little similar to that but not the same....
When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
View 5 RepliesHave had the following happen 3 times to me during longer (1-2 hrs) drives where I'm driving straight through, no stops, highway driving.
Running along fine when out of the blue, the A/C temp remains strong and cold, but the airflow drops dramatically to the equivalent of 1 or 2 bars on the fan dial. However, the fan dial remains at 5,6 or higher. Upping the fan dial does little to increase the speed of airflow. Adjusting the air source intake buttons changes nothing.
Only thing to correct this is to stop the car and let it sit, off, for about 20-30 minutes, or more. Re-start the car and it's all back to normal.
Searched the forums and can't find anything on Elantra, altho some Tuscon's seem to have had similar issue on older models, although their descriptions were more dramatic, w/the A/C going out w/in 20-30 minutes.
When the temperature drops below -20 Celsius, I find the transmission shifts weird just after start up. It seems like it goes into second, then third normally, then abruptly drops back into second. I'm pushing very lightly on the gas pedal, so the drop down is weird. A couple times the nav was blank on start up.
View 8 RepliesThere is roughly 800 on the odometer and I was averaging around 35 mpg. I filled it up and driving home afterwards I noticed the mpg drop off significantly. Now I'm lucky to get get 27. It was as low as 16 on the trip computer. The range was the same and the miles come off in sync with the odometer. I'm wondering if its a glitch with the trip computer?
View 30 RepliesSo I got my stage one flash yesterday and I noticed 5th gear slipping already. I don't plan on getting a k04 upgrade, maybe stage 2 down the road. so I am looking into the drop in clutches, preferably this one [URL] .... I am just trying to find out some reviews from people who are currently running drop in clutches and the issues that they have come across.
View 8 RepliesI just picked up my new R (Rising Blue 2 Door w/ S-Roof & Nav) yesterday and love it, except for one thing. When accelerating and changing up through the gears, the revs seem very slow to drop after lifting off the gas and dipping the clutch to select the next gear. It is like there is a delay between me lifting off and the instruction getting to the engine.
View 6 RepliesIs it just as simple as when the wipers activates when it senses water drop on front windshield? the sensor is turned on and it started to not work time to time recently. What's going on?
View 14 RepliesI am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
I just got my 08 Camry 4cyl 2 months ago. I noticed that when I start the car up and put the car into drive or reverse within 5 seconds of starting it up, it will jerk a lot. It seems like it's dropping it into gear hard. I checked this morning to see if the car is revving up when I do that and it is. It is sitting at 2000 rpm on startup. Is this normal and do I just have to wait a little bit before putting it in gear?
View 3 RepliesI have become the proud owner of a 1991 Ford F-150 long wheel base with a camper shell. It has a 300ci straight 6 with an overdrive transmission. When I first started driving the truck over a year ago it had about 45000 miles on it. Obviously it had not been used much. I have since added about 15000 miles so now I am just over 60000. When I first started driving the truck occasionally it would jerk really hard when shifting. It didn't seem to matter which gear it was going into. The more I drove the worse the problem got to the point where it would drop completely out of gear while going down the highway.
Now another detail. The jerking was much worse when the outside temperature was above 50 degrees. During the winter the problem was all but none existent. I thought I was at the least looking at a transmission rebuild. Well about two months ago I decided to try something radical. When I drove in town I would turn the overdrive off and manually shift through the gears. Since my business is not far from my home and I seldom get over 50mph I would leave the overdrive off. It never would get over 2000 rpm's. After about two weeks of this I tried putting it back in drive while in town. Now there is no jerking or dropping out of gear.
I have a 1987 e350 conversion. Recently the vehicle has been acting up. Once warmed up, the transmission does not drop back into low/1st gear when stopped at a light, when we go to accelerate the vehicle has no power as it tries to accelerate in drive. I have to manually shift into first which the transmission immediately kicks down. When it comes to transmissions I like to have some knowledge before bringing to a shop.
View 2 RepliesIt's been harsh winter in NYC. Yesterday evening I parked my ES300H with right side wheels submerged in the icy puddle, meaning the water reached almost to the bottom of the brake rotors. Today I noticed that the rear back wheel looks flat. I check the wheel pressure in the dashboard, and I get 33psi on all wheels but 13psi on that flat one. I have no clue why the pressure drop didn't happen to the front right wheel. I pumped that flat tire and drove over 20 miles that day, no tire pressure drop.
So, the moral: Don't park/submerge your wheels in ice cold puddles.
I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
View 4 RepliesI had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.