Tiguan :: 2012 VW (43k) CEL Came On / Engine Sputtering / Misfire
Jun 5, 2015
A few days ago, my CEL came on when I got to work, I assumed it was a misfire because when I got off work it was off. Now, I just got to work and my CEL came on when I left my house. I have been noticing engine sputtering/wastegate when I'm around 2-3k rpm, hovering around 20-35mph, after that I don't notice it. I bought the car used at 39k miles, the 40k service, nor an oil change has been done since last september. (not sure if that's a factor). I've skimmed the forums and head it could possibly be the spark plugs/coil plugs/ or turbo.
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I have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
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On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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Ok, I am new to the Tiguan but not new to VW engines. For the last 11 years I am driving a 1.8T and I test drove the newer GTIs and Audis with the 2.0T. But with my 2012 Tiguan S manual I find the engine to be a little loud and rough sounding. Especially under heavy load it more reminds me of a diesel than a 4 banger turbo. Now, is this this normal or is it just my engine?
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I recently bought a 2001 Golf 1.8t and everything was running smoothly until a few days ago.
I had to change the timing belt because I have 80,000 miles on my car, and the day I was going to my mechanic, I scanned the codes, and the p0301 and p0303 codes came up. The two codes are cylinder one misfire and the cylinder three misfire. So, I switched the two bad coils with the supposedly good coils to see if the codes changed, and when I scanned it again, the bank 2 lean 1 code came up. I had my mechanic look at the spark plugs and when we checked the plugs, there was oil ABOVE the plug, leading us to believe the misfire was from oil leaking in because of bad spark plug tube seals/valve cover gasket.
Regardless, I bought four new factory coils and four new factory spark plugs and factory valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I replaced them today and I was hoping, in a perfect world, my misfire would stop and my car would stop sputtering and revving and fluttering my RPM's. I was wrong. The only other thing under the hood that I can think would have anything to do with it is that the PCV hose is just about fully ripped, but I'm not sure If that would still make my car sputter and cause my car to misfire.
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Over the last several days I've noticed a faint whining noise coming from the engine when I pull into the garage. Sounds similar to the noise you hear when you keep an elevator door open for too long.
This is the first turbo engine that I've had so I'm not really familiar with the sounds it may or may not produce, and whether this is normal behavior.
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Our 46K mile 2012 Tiguan starting making some pretty loud whining/growling/rattling engine noises recently so I took it to the dealer shop and they diagnosed a bad accessory belt tensioner. However, they didn't have one in stock and would have to order it. Well, that's fine but it's a 300 mile round trip to the dealer so I came home and ordered one from ECS Tuning.
I found a copy of an official VW (ETKA?) procedure on the web for replacing the tensioner for the TSI in a Golf so I suspect the procedure for a Tiguan is similar: remove the bolt for the secondary water pump and move the pump out of the way, remove the end bolt on the tensioner mounting shaft, remove the three bolts from the pendulum/dogbone, support the engine, remove the top two bolts from the passenger side engine mount, drop the engine about 2 inches and pull the tensioner out.
To be honest, I was very surprised that the dealership didn't have a tensioner in stock. This was a rather large and pretty good dealership shop (three service advisors). I guess accessory tensioner failure is really rare on the TSI.
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Must preface this by saying I drive A LOT... about 600-1K per week for work, so unfortunately my Tiguan takes a beating. Bought it new (62 miles on it) in 8/2012. Had major misfire issues around 68-70K and had to get it towed. (AAA guy said Tiguan owners should know it is difficult to tow and required my husband to drive it up on the truck). Next day I replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, and got an oil change and dealership was nice enough to have it covered under part of a maintenance service package and only paid about 600 incl. labor which was nice. Been religious with oil changes and some big service items.
Car was working fine until about 95K, when the engine and the cooling fan started to sound extra loud. Then at 98K service and oil change (2 weeks ago), I had them check the tires anyways because I usually get new tires around 50-60K of driving. Dealership said the loud driving around 20-40 mph was due to the wear of the tires and I needed new brakes on both front and back. I understood that and needed new tires anyway. I set up an appointment to get them done at another place and the other place told me I only needed rear brakes and new tires.
Since last week it seems the turbo timer & cool down sounded a little strange (extra loud, extra fluttering sound near the front wheels, and yesterday was not making the cooling down sound after it was parked and turned off). Then Yesterday engine light turned on and VW couldn't take me for a week and a half!! Took it this morning to a repair shop I trust for years (but not VW specific) said the diagnostic showed it was a turbo issue so I will have to go back to the dealership next week anyways.
Getting all new tires with rear brakes today with transmission oil change. But very unhappy that this is happening. When I go back to the VW dealership? Hoping it is just the turbo timer which is a less expensive fix than the entire thing. Also any recommendations with service/maintenance for a Tiguan with climbing miles? Worst part is I just reached 100K miles from my last service 2 weeks ago. Just figured I'd list everything since most people don't have this many miles on their 2012 Tiguans SE 4Motion yet.
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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This began occurring after I hosed down my engine with degreaser, stupid me. Car will begin to sputter like it is losing power around 30-40mph, and then it's fine. Rarely it happens around higher speeds with the cruise control on around 65 its just fine and the CEL never came on. Well yesterday i pulled the battery cable for 30 minutes to let things reset, then i got a CEL, code P0030 which I think is an o2 sensor, so i guess it went bad from the water perhaps? What part I need, where it is located and how difficult this would be to do in the driveway?
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So, my 2014 Tiguan started having a misfire on cylinder 1. It has 35000kms with 80% highway. I have an APR stg 1 tune. The misfire started at 30,000 or so. I took it to the dealer and they said I would have to get the tune removed before they could look at it... I did some trouble-shooting on my own. Moved coils, stayed on #1. Replaced coils. It came back. Changed plugs, stayed on #1. Drove three hours to get the tune removed and back three hours... The whole week the dealer has been hesitant to say they will do anything on warranty. Spent most of their time trying to prove my changing the plugs and coils caused the problem. Finally, yesterday they put a call in to VW Canada who agreed to change the injector and manifold. The dealer called to say I need the carbon cleaning done. Of course I do... I agreed to it but asked for pictures. I change my oil every 5000 kms and drive almost all the time on the highway.
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We have a 2012 camry with about 65,000 miles on it. Recently we've noticed that when the car is in a high gear (5th or 6th) and the RPMs are around 1000-1200 the car feels like its sputtering/shaking. almost like its in too low of a gear. Kind of feels like you're driving on a very rough road.....it happens when you're driving around 35-45mph with your foot barely on the gas. if i give it a little more gas to get the RPMs a little higher it's ok. other than this the car runs perfectly fine. Don't notice any issues on the highway. I don't have any CEL.
initially i thought it had something to do with the torque converter issue that folks were notified by in the mail. we already had the update done but that's not it. The more i research this i think it's probably a fuel/spark issue like dirty injector or bad wire.... I dont think its the trans.
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I have a 2009 TSI/2WD with 68k miles on it which we bought brand new. The car has been relatively trouble free for all these years and my wife loves the car.
Middle of the last December my wife calls me and tells me the "Check Engine" light came on while she was driving.I told her if there is no unusual noises or any warning lights blinking drive the car home and I'll take a look at it when I get home.She said everything looks normal and nothing unusual.
Long story short,I came home scanned it with VAG-COM,found random misfire codes and spotted the oil leak on the garage floor and saw where it was coming from.Yeah you guessed it right, it was the Crank Shaft seal.
I went ahead and replaced it with new one from the dealer and a new PCV breather too.Started the car after I finish No leak,No check engine and everything was fine.
Until two weeks ago again the check engine light came on.went ahead scanned again and this time it was P0300,P0302(RANDOM AND CYL.#2). There was no visible misfire that I could feel so I cleared the MIL.I also did swap the coils to make sure it wasn't coil related and again it stayed the same as before.Spark plugs have been replaced 3 months ago,so that's not it either.
After couple of days of my wife driving it,I noticed that the MIL always comes on when she starts the car after it was driven and the engine was hot or warmed up, so after a lot of searching and reading online forums,I came to conclusion that it must be the valves and it's"DE CARB" time.
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Misfire occurs at highway speed under acceleration, the service writer stated "we have to do a coil swap" meaning they just swap them from around, and this is the SECOND time they have done this, according to them this is how VW wants them to address this, now I understand factory procedures cuz I work for a Porsche dealer, but wouldn't you think second time around you would replace those things.
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I am going to change the plugs to start trying to fix this. How do i remove the coils from the plugs. I cannot get the connector off and do not want to break it.
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I recently did a coil pack swap to determine if that was the cause for a cylinder 1 misfire. Left to right on my 2009 se tiguan, I changed 1 to 2, 2 to 1, 3 to 4 and 4 to 3. I recently ran into the cylinder misfire again, this time on cylinder 4. The problem is, I do not know which coil fires which cylinder. I've looked around quite a bit and can't seem to find it.
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My buddy has a 2010 tiguan and hes having a misfire issue. It has a hesitation and the interior lights seem to dim with the hesitation. Heres the codes that pulled up with vagcom.
4 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 148426 km
[Code] ....
What it might be?
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My son has a 2012 F250 King Ranch, 6.7 L.
Little info: Last Friday the inter-cooler hose blew. We changed the hose this past Saturday. The truck ran great all weekend. Last night leaving for work it started to sputter and then died. Got the truck to crank, ran great no sputter, but something under the hood sounded off. We drove it all the way back home. Killed it, re-cranked it, everything was fine.
This morning cranked the truck, ran fine for 5 min then died and would not crank. We decided it needed new fuel filters. Replaced the fuel filters, truck now cranks and idles great. When you mash the gas at it revs up then sputters like it would die, when you let off the accelerator it catches up and idles fine again. It cant be too much wrong, it ran great all weekend.
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The headrests on my Tiguan are stuck fully extended. Somehow the push button on drivers side is missing and trying the inner lever is not working. How I can get the headrests down ?
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My wife's TPMS light came on yesterday, I checked the tire pressures this AM and set them all to 38psi, one wheel was down a few PSI, and went for a drive. everything seems fine.
TPMS light is still on, this is a canadian trendline w/4motion.
I do not have MFSW but I do seem to have the full MFD. The manual says to reset via the settings menu which I cannot access. no combination of button pushing on the cluster or control stalk will give me the settings menu. I do not see a button in front of the shift lever or in the glove box like other models have.
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