2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
View 5 Repliesi want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
View 15 RepliesWhen my Tig is cold, it seems to be very jerky or sluggish at 1500-1800rpm. There is definitely something happening at that range of RPM , almost seems like it's slipping and is jerky.
I know these 2.0's are notorious for the timing tensioner going (I have an 09) - could this be somehow related? I know that at a start I always get the famous rattle for a few seconds until oil pressure builds.
My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
View 9 RepliesYesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
View 5 RepliesAutomatic transmissions! I have a 90 F250 4x 7.5 and E4OD. I have been chasing electrical gremlins, and I'm not sure if these problems are related or not. Symptoms: When starting off in drive, it feels very sluggish, as if it is starting in second gear. Manually putting in first works. When left in drive it will drop all the way into fourth at 20-25 mph. If left in drive, when you turn a corner and step into the throttle the trans will rapidly shift up and down causing a surging effect. Manually moving the shift down into second stops this. I have been considering swapping the PCM from an 89 7.5 E4OD parts truck I have, to see if that cures any of the problems.
View 4 RepliesWe are going through probably the overall coldest winter I have ever been through. I was wondering is it not out of the question for the cold to impact the power steering on a car. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and have noticed when starting out in the morning my steering is a bit more sluggish/stiffer and then has the day wears on it is back to it's normal self. It has depending on the temps out said taken a few minutes up to a half hour or so. I have never had this issue before, but again have never had to deal with so many sub zero nights and days in winter....
View 8 RepliesI am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
View 8 RepliesI recently replaced the 181K mile valve-burned engine in my 2001 Honda CR-V with a 40K mile engine from Japan. Since the swap idle is slightly erratic, acceleration from a stop is sluggish and check engine light indicates "P1508 error code" which is "Idle Air Control valve circuit failure." Also have an issue with the A/C cycling on and off rapidly when idling that goes away as soon as the engine rpm is slightly increased. New OEM IAC valve is costly so I hesitate to replace it. All parts other than the engine itself are from my original engine in my CR-V.
View 3 RepliesJust this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
View 6 Replies2000 f150 4x4 5.4 7700 series. Problem I am having is taking off from a stop sign the engine feels like its not getting any fuel especially when out side temp gets above 90 or some higher, truck runs great other then that ,expected fuel mileage is good,no codes at all, doesn't miss or jump..
View 9 RepliesI just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
I have a 2014.5 Camry SE 4CYL 29K . Lately the car has been running so sluggish, it almost seems like it has lost power. Acceleration from stop or while driving seems to be a burden almost like if i was towing a boat. I have 5k since since my last oil change, and have the KNN drop-in air filter, so dirty air filter is not the problem. Not to forget that I always pump 91 octane from chevron. Why this would be?? ( should i have them change the spark plugs?) or could this be due to the transmission?
View 14 RepliesToday when my 2009 Tig hit 120k mark, the engine starting to shutter almost like the engine was not getting enough fuel or something. The engine never did stall and the shuttering began to start intermittently. I've read on other threads regarding Carbon Buildup on the injectors.
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
I've got VAG-COM and I've enabled the convenience menu, but when I change ATA Confirmation to "off", my horn still beeps when I lock the car. Is there something I've missed? Is ATA Confirmation not what controls that?
View 10 RepliesWe have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
I have noticed that the throttle is a bit light...meaning that the resistance bringing the throttle back to idle is too soft. Two issues as a result. Unexpected..faster acceleration from a stop and my leg tires a bit in town keeping speeds in the 30-45 range. Assume there is no retro fit and/no adjustment. It's rather odd in that just about everything else on the vehicle seems well thought out and executed. I could complain about the over boosted power brakes....or the brake squeel that the dealer can't/will not fix...but the throttle is really getting on my nerves.
View 5 RepliesI have an intermittent issue where the tiggy seems to downshift harshly to 1st when coming to a stop while in D. Almost like dropping the clutch but not enough to chirp the tires - just enough to feel a thump. I figure it's related to the engine braking "feature" of this car but doing it incorrectly. It seems as though once it's happening, it stays like that for a while, but the next day for example, it will be fine.
I've been observing it for some time now and it doesn't seem temperature specific. In fact, I have a hunch it might be electronic even since if I turn off ESC it stops occurring. Turning off brake auto-hold doesn't make a difference either (this is turned off automatically if ESC is shut off).
I hate taking my car into the dealer for intermittent issues... they are notorious at dismissing something if it doesn't happen right then and there in front of their face. Thought maybe I should check the forums incase their's a TSB or something to fix this exact issue or if it's just unique to my tig.
2010 (build date 8/09) 4motion SE btw, w/ 5k miles
The headrests on my Tiguan are stuck fully extended. Somehow the push button on drivers side is missing and trying the inner lever is not working. How I can get the headrests down ?
View 4 Replies2010 SE 4Motion: My Tiguan's tranny seems to clunk pretty bad when coming to a stop. Wasn't a problem until after I got flashed to APR stage 1 so it may still be adapting, but I'm not sure.
View 10 Replies