Tiguan :: 2012 - Power Loss Over 60 Mph?
May 5, 2016
I am a new owner of 2012 VW Tiguan basic model. I noticed that AWD was replaced by 4Motion was told it is AWD in VW. I drove two AWD (Outlook and Edge) before but they are quite different from I have now with this Tiguan. When driving less than 50 mph, it is perfect and normal. I fell no difference from I had with previous AWAD. However, when speed exceeds 60 mph, I can feel the "active driving" control kick in to intervene my powertrain. If you sit entirely on your seat, you can feel the car body try to swing a twist occasionally, it come and go and let me feel the car is running unstable. I actually have an advanced degree in ME and have been working on auto industries for years. But this is strange to me. I have some theory below:
1) something wrong with 4motion, it activates too fast or violently to cause tail twist (it is like you brake one rear wheel as tag and go style, so that your car still go but your tail swing a little bit)
2) unbalanced rear differential (due to dirty debris or grease?) such that one wheel has more resistant drag than the other? As 4Motion activated thru multi-disk clutch, the abrupt force cause two wheel rotate at slight different speed to swing the rear body? BTW, are these multi-disc controlled by on-off type or PWM? and at what speed, it activate? My previous AWD seem to be passive type with purely hydraulic to pass torque.
3) miss-calibration on the 4motion activation map? is there a way to smooth the clutch locking mechanism by sequential locking or increase the locking period? VW AD said about timely 4 wheel drive mechanical system. I would like to what timely means in this incidence?
4) Either front wheel aligned such as not enough toe-in or toe-out? I just have the car for one week. I plan to bring it back to check for remedy. Or 4 wheel miss aligned? but it is hard to explain why the car run normal under 50 mph?
My car is 2012 VW Tiguan with 40000 miles, turbo, basic trim and no navigation. Not even a compass? It does have a nice white car body to show if the door is open.
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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My wife was driving to work today and she called me when she was almost to work and said that when she was at the red-light and said when she started from the red-light the car was fine and she hit a certain rpm and the rpm's dropped and there was a strong smell of fuel. The car was still running and would idle fine but was running almost like it was flooded or had a miss like a coil pack or spark plug. There was no check engine so I am not sure I haven't got to look at the car yet.
I forgot to mention a few months back she had a check engine for the intake manifold runner flap called the dealer and set up an appointment to take it in. Took it up and by the time we got there the check engine was off and car was running fine no issues. They said no sense in bringing it in now just set another appointment if it comes back on which it never has and still isn't on but I am wondering if this problem is related to that? I know for sure that the car is still covered under the enhanced warranty for the injectors and intake manifold.
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Lately having the following issues with my Tig.
When starting up the engine on cold start (or after having the car sit for about 30 minutes) after about 10 - 20 seconds; pretty much right after first acceleration the car all of a sudden looses all power. RPM fall down even when accelerating. Accelerating more only let's the engine stall more.
5-10 seconds later the engine functions normal again.... What problem could that be ?
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
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Garage tells me tranny is working well. The problem seems to be worse when engine is cold. When pulling away from a stop, sounds like a toaster is being shaken under the hood with a loss of power...leaving 2nd into 3rd. Are there any other engine parts i should be testing?
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I have a 2014.5 Camry SE 4CYL 29K . Lately the car has been running so sluggish, it almost seems like it has lost power. Acceleration from stop or while driving seems to be a burden almost like if i was towing a boat. I have 5k since since my last oil change, and have the KNN drop-in air filter, so dirty air filter is not the problem. Not to forget that I always pump 91 octane from chevron. Why this would be?? ( should i have them change the spark plugs?) or could this be due to the transmission?
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I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
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2012 v five with 56,500 miles. Getting onto an on ramp and accelerating when car jolted and dramatic power loss. I posted a thread about my car "ticking" as I slowed down from 30mph and I am wondering if this was related. I had no choice but to drive it home and kept car under 45 mostly on side streets. Car is not assisted at all by electric motor and can barely go up hills. With windows open and attention to any unusual sound i noticed no more ticking when slowing down from 25 to zero.... I think its covered under warranty at least powertrain, hopefully. I know a few of you here have the ticking problem to so i will update if this is related after i bring it in for service.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
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So I just filled my wife's 11 Tig up and it averaged 17mpg! She doesn't drive it hard or heavy on the gas so this kinda sucks.
My only idea that I'm hoping someone can confirm/deny is we recently got both lower fuel pumps replaced under warrenty. During that process could there have been some fuel loss that would cause such low MPG? We use premium fuel as well
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So, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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The headrests on my Tiguan are stuck fully extended. Somehow the push button on drivers side is missing and trying the inner lever is not working. How I can get the headrests down ?
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My wife's TPMS light came on yesterday, I checked the tire pressures this AM and set them all to 38psi, one wheel was down a few PSI, and went for a drive. everything seems fine.
TPMS light is still on, this is a canadian trendline w/4motion.
I do not have MFSW but I do seem to have the full MFD. The manual says to reset via the settings menu which I cannot access. no combination of button pushing on the cluster or control stalk will give me the settings menu. I do not see a button in front of the shift lever or in the glove box like other models have.
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Our 2012 Tiguan (FWD) has been experiencing a sudden drop in MPG for the past two weeks. We had no significant change in climate or driving habits. With mixed driving, we dropped from about 24 MPG to 20 MPG. We had our 40K service done just two weeks ago.
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Need to disable TPMS on 2012 model? I am going to install winter tires with wheels without sensors.
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I have a 2012 Tiguan that's about 2 1/2 years old now, and, naturally, just shy of my 40k mile service window. For the most part, it's driven flawlessly. Today, after driving for about an hour and a half, it randomly died, and the alternator light came on. Ironically, this happened just a few hundred feet from my house, and it essentially agreed to limp home at about 15 mph until it got into my driveway, at which point the power steering gave out. I put it in park, turned it off and took out the key, waited about 30 seconds (a lifetime of PC troubleshooting is hard to ignore) and restarted, with no issues or warning lights. I don't have any OBD tool to pull the codes right now.
I can get it into the dealer probably by Friday, but I have two days of needing to go to a customer that's 40 miles away. I'm concerned about this happening at highway speeds, rather than on an empty residential street. To be fair, I had been driving a while, it's the warmest day of the year, and I had the A/C on and off throughout the drive, as well as radio and my iphone charging (nothing unusual, though). Any thoughts on if I should seriously worry about driving it around the next two days, or if it was likely a fluke?
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Is there anyway to get a boost readout On the MFI for a 2012 tig s 4mo?? Also any way to LIFT a 2012 4mo???
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