Tiguan :: 2012 - Poor Fuel Mileage?


Mar 18, 2012

My wife and I just purchased a 2012 SEL front-wheel drive. Our first tank (mixed use) was 19 MPG. We took the vehicle on a roadtrip this weekend that was 95% highway driving on mostly flat Texas roads using cruise control as much as possible. Our best tank was 23.3 which was achieved driving 70-75 MPH on I-20. Is this consistent with what others are seeing? My mileage figures are at the link below. Note, all values are calculated by me, not the MFD that reads about 1 MPG high.

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Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Got Poor Mileage - 11.4 Mpg?

I have a 2012 f150 stx 5.0 and I drive mostly city with a few highway miles. Why get this bad of gas mileage?

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1983 - Poor Fuel Mileage?

I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.

I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Won't Start At Cold / Poor Fuel Mileage

I own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.

I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.

I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.

I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.

The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue

OE Mass air flow sensor

OE spark plugs

BREMI wires

OE Bosch front O2 sensor

I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Poor Fuel Mileage?

I just bought my first diesel truck back in November. It's a 2005 F-250 with the 6.0L and the 5 spd torq-shift automatic tranny. Last weekend I drove the truck to South Carolina, about a 600 mile round trip from where I live. On the trip the truck only got 13 mpg! I wasn't towing a trailer and the truck was empty except for me and my suitcase. It's not loaded up with mods or anything, it's completely stock power wise.

I'm extremely disappointing, especially since a friend of mine has a 2006 F-250 identical to mine and he gets up to 21 mpg on his. What can be done to improve my mileage? I'm not a lead-footed driver, and the trip was done with almost all interstate and highway driving, very little driving on back roads or stop and go. If this is the best the truck will get, I'm going to sell it and buy a F-150!

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Throttle Response And Poor Fuel Mileage

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I cleaned the connections to the Tps and the IVS sensor and put them back in. No luck. On another note I am also seeing a reduction in fuel mileage and power like the truck is being restricted. I don't know if these symptoms are related or possibly their own issues. I am troubleshooting and possibly thinking it is the EBPV system that isn't working correctly. Considering doing an EBPV delete with a NON-EBPV Pedestal and Flange.

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My7.3 is idling rough till I pull the fuse for the fuel pump them it will smoothen out I ran a by pass switch to us my truck but the fuel mileage is bad why

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Tiguan :: Terrible Loss In Fuel Economy - Bad Mileage

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My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....

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Prius V Fuel :: 2012 - Mileage Is Down To 30.6 MPG

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Accent RB (2012+) :: Extreme Drop In Fuel Mileage

I live in the suburbs, so I do a lot of stop and go driving. For the longest time, I would typically get 25 or 26 mpg city, as per the gauge. I would see the number climb to 41 or so in constant highway driving. I am pretty sure the fuel tank is about 10.5 gallons or so as when the low fuel light comes on, and there is only one bar left on the gas gauge, and I top up the tank, I never put more than about 9.5 - 9.8 gallons in.

All this being said, in the last few weeks I have seen a severe drop in MPG. The gauge is constantly reading about 19.5, when I hit the expressway it will climb a bit, but when I compare the miles driven to the bars on the gas gauge, the bars used to drop at about 20 miles driven, now each bar will drop at around 13-15 miles driven. We are having some extreme cold here in the midwest, as opposed to last winter when I bought the car.

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Ford :: 2007 - Poor Gas Mileage?

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GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Poor Gas Mileage - Got CEL For Coolant System

What these codes mean and what I need to do to fix this?

Codes:

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P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2

P0036 H02S heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 2

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It will finally "clear" up and still misfire every few secs or just cut off. Gas mileage is terrible between 15-18mpg. The engine light and trac off light has only been on twice. Both times the code was for random misfire of multiple cylinders. I have put plugs, boots (wires), distributor, 2 fuel processor regulator, seafoam, all octanes of gas, pulled injectors (looked ok a little dirty but still could be one) and I have ordered ignition control module. Its getting hard to drive and even harder to sell. It has just started the white smoke and gas smell and i think its that's the pressure regulator, but the skipping and rough idle....

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Honda - Accord :: 1998 - Vapor Leak And Poor Gas Mileage

I have a 1998 Honda Accord, automatic with 179,000 miles. The malfunction indicator light came on so I had the car smoked and found that it needed a purge valve. I replaced the purge valve and smoked the car again which indicated the car still has a vapor leak and the malfunction light stayed on. The only place visible smoke is coming from is from the fuel filler neck (place where fuel or gas is put into the car) when the gas cap is off. Where the leak may be? My car is also getting horrible gas mileage. I was going to replace the fuel filter but I heard it was in the gas tank, is this right and is it replaceable? Would replacing the gas cap work for either the vapor leak or gas mileage?

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Passat (B5) :: 2001 VW - Rough Idle / Loss Of Power And Poor Gas Mileage

I have a 2001 VW Passat Wagon 1.8t AUG. A couple of months ago, I took it into my shop for a check engine light. The did the following work on the vehicle:

Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced broken oil level sensor
Replaced outer CV boots
Resealed my transmission pan (it was leaking)
Replaced bad vacuum hoses

When I got the car back, it was idling really rough, and one time it even stalled. Just after starting it, when I hit the gas it wouldn't respond immediately and sputtered for a little while. Once I got going it was usually OK, unless I was going uphill...where it wouldn't perform as well and the engine noise kinda wavered. I also noticed that my gas mileage wasn't nearly as good as it used to be. (I never experienced any problems like this before they did this work) So I took it back to the shop and they replaced both the front and rear 02 sensors. I still had the same problem, so I took it back, and they replaced the fuel filter. Still has the same problem.

The light came on after a month, so I took it back and it was the random cylinder misfire code...and they said that didn't really know what to do about it. So I decided to take matters into my own hands. I cleaned the MAF sensor they installed (took it out and sprayed it with cleaner) nothing. I replaced the spark plugs and while doing so found that one of my ignition coils was bad, and I replaced that as well. Turns out the AutoLite plugs that a local parts store sold me are crap for this engine (actually caused misfires) so I went and got Denso double platinum plugs the next day and put those in. And finally I changed my air filter. Still having problems.

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For the past two years I've noticed a decrease in fuel economy and recently noticed that the truck did not "feel" as if it had the same power especially when towing. Checking all the usual suspects with the engine turned up nothing and the transmission wasn't showing any signs of problems other than an occasional delay going into reverse. But it had been doing that for years and so I just ignored it.

Recently the torque converter started acting up and had some other occasional shifting delays and so decided to put the vehicle in the shop. The electronics all checked out and so a HD rebuild kit was ordered. The truck was finished this morning. Just barely pressing the accelerator makes the vehicle instantly start forward with noticeable zip. Plenty of power at all speeds, the engine now feels like new.

I suspect the main culprit was the torque converter. It wasn't enough to notice in excessive rpms nor heat (at least according to the instrument gauge) but the loss is noticeable in hindsight when compared to the repaired system. Over the next few weeks I'll get some mileage numbers and will know for sure whether I've found the sole cause of my power problems but I am sure that I've made a fairly large step in solving them.

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I checked the spark plugs for carbon build-up which would indicate a rich gas mixture but they're clean (lite tan color). I also replace some of the vacuum lines where I found cracks, but I may have missed a few. Overall the car seems to run pretty good. The problem is that this is my daughter's car who lives 10 hours drive away and I don't want to stick her with any problems. I don't want to take it to a dealership where they'll charge me a lot of money but my mechanic that I normally deal with doesn't know what to do with it since there aren't any fault codes on the computer.

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