Tiguan :: 2012 - Extended Crank Over Time And Start
Dec 7, 2011
I purchased my 2012 SE in October, and since that time, I've noticed that after it has sat for a few hours between starts (first thing in the morning, leaving work, etc.) it takes longer than other times for it to crank-over and start. At other times, it starts right away. I know that the fuel pump kicks in when you open the door initially, and perhaps I am trying to start it too soon. This is my first VW, so, before I worry that something needs to be checked out (due for the "courtesy check" anyway) I wanted to make sure this was not a common thing, or something I am doing wrong (didn't think I could mess up starting the thing...)
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So how long does one have to crank until it is considered an extended crank? 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.....?
The reason I ask is after all the motor work I did on my truck sometimes she fires up in less than 1 second of cranking and other times it take maybe 2 seconds of cranking. I do not think 2 seconds is considered and extended crank time but was just curious about what is considered extended cranking.
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ACURA 2000 TL. When I start the car recently, it cranks 10 or 15 times and then starts. When I leave the key in the ignition ON position for a few seconds it starts right away. When I shut off and try to start right away it takes time to start. What is the problem ! Someone told me fuel pump/main relay need to be changed. I did and the problem remains the same. Another one told me weak battery and I changed battery the problem remains the same. After reading some blogs, I tend to believe it could be something to do with retaining fuel pressure. How do I diagnose whether it is the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel return valve or fuel pump? If it is the fuel return valve where is it located?
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My outback started giving me intermittent extended crank starting problems on cold engine starts a few months ago. I brought it in first to repair shop and then dealership. Battery replaced, all systems checked out, computer update, camshaft sensor shim, and still I have the problem. What this could be?
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I bought this car in July 2013. In August I started noticing that randomly it would experience extended cranks to get started. It usually happens when the car has been off for a few hours. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not.
I have taken the car to the dealership 5 times already. The first 4 times they said they found faults in the computer and that fuel pressure was dropping when the car was off and during the 4 visits, they changed out the fuel pumps on both high (did this twice) and low side. But the problem still exists. The 5th time they kept the car for a few days and drove and started at various times and they say everything checks out fine and it is behaving as normal.
Other than this, the car is fine. Lately, I notice that this happens about 1 -2 times a day depending on when the car is started. Typically I am experiencing this if the car is started after 3 - 6 hrs or more. Other times it starts fine.
When it starts fine, when I turn the key it sounds like cha-cha (or da-da) and starts. Sometimes is does cha-cha-cha-cha, and that seems normal because my other car (Sonata) takes no more than that. Other times it is either marginally worse like cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha.
or bad like cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha (eight cha-s). My 2011 Tiguan never had this. Dealership is telling me eight cha-s is 4 cranks and that is normal. Although it starts up about 2 seconds when it does eight cha-s, it just sounds too long and abnormal. I have never had a car start like this.
Again, this is intermittent and seems like I experience it once or twice a day depending on how many times I started after the car is sitting off for a few hrs.
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Trouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
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My 07 LE with the 2.5 has 151K on the odometer. It is an oil burner and now wants to stay on fast idle for an extended period of time. I live in the cold country so I know it will run fast at start up but it is alot longer then it used to be. It isn't working for the oil burning at all! Regarding the oil issue I tried running Pennzoil full synth and it drank it down like water! Is this a sensor problem if so which one would I look into changing.
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I have a 2005 Passat Wagon, V6, 2.8L. I purchased this car used about a year and a half ago with 10,000 mi. It now has 32,000. I have done all scheduled maintenance. About 8 mo ago I started noticing a problem when starting the car. It seems to take a while for it to "turn-over" while starting it up. We've taken it to two different VW dealerships to try and solve the problem. About 4 mo ago, one of the dealerships replaced the ignition coil. They were able to read a memory chip of some sort to identify the problem I was having. Since this repair however, the problem has begun again. There is no consistency. Hot or cold temp. After sitting several hours or only a few minutes. The problem happens about one out of every five starts.
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For a long time I have been noticing extended cold cranks as compared to my dad's truck which has 50k less miles. Hasn't been much of a big deal until lately the crank has been getting longer to the point where it is noticeable and bothers me.
When the truck finally fires (10-15 seconds) it will sit and idle no problem, maybe a little rough, but that's about it. It will also run a little rough if you start driving it right away but will smooth out fairly quickly. When it first starts it is usually accompanied by a small puff of white smoke.
As a quick run down it has had the injector o-rings, glow plugs and UVCHs replaced about 36k ago. I can verify it isn't the glow plugs or the harness because it would start reliably down to -25 without being plugged in.
My thought is the injectors are just nearing the end of their useful lives (248k). Does this make sense?
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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Twice now my 2001 Echo has overheated when I was sitting and idling it for an extended time with the air conditioner running. The temperature outside was in the nineties. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After I let it cool down the first time added coolant and drove it, it didn't happen again until today months later. Is this normal?
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My wife had the misfortune of the horn sounding each time the signal was turned on. Solved problem by not using signal... However, the horn still went off after the truck had been turned off for an extended period of time (long enough for her to leave and not hear the horn until returning a couple hours later). She was able to stop the horn by placing the vehicle in neutral (manual transmission). I have not been able to reproduce the problem. I thought it may be the "relay integration", but after removing this from the vehicle the signal does not work, but the horn still works. Is there a relay, switch, etc. that controls both of these devices?
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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Removed my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
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I am trying to diagnose an issue with my 2003 F-250 6.0L PSD.
The first time I crank it everyday, it struggles to start. Beyond that, it seems to run fine and not have issues cranking throughout the day.
I've recently replaced both batteries, the FICM, the fuel filters and the FI wiring harness. What could be the issue?
The video shows exactly what I deal with every morning.
YouTube - 2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue ....
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I need to get the push start button out so I can clean the electrical contacts. I've seen a DIY elsewhere online but it was for a push start button located in the steering column.
Does this involve removing the entire center console, or possibly just the shift boot and ring? It's a Tiptronic 4motion.
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I have a friend with a 2012 F250. The truck has 100K miles and it does idle for extended periods. The other day his check engine light comes on so he took it the shop. They had not told him anything yet, but they did tell him that he had about a gallon to much oil. They said it was fuel.
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Recently my 2003 Camry LE is blowing out a big puff of bluish/white smoke in the mornings when I first start the car or after extended periods of non-use. But I am not getting any smoke any other time that I can detect. The temperature here doesn't drop much below 70 degrees if it does. What could this be and how can I remedy it?
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I own a 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE, but I'd imagine this issue could exist w/ any trim. Hear a slight crinkle/rattle from time to time coming from your headliner area? At times it almost sounds like someone padded your headliner with a plastic grocery bag.
I usually heard it on bumpy roads. I went through a nightmare with my dealer where they had my car for about 40 days trying to figure out the cause. They even replaced the headliner! (they did a lousy job too, w/ lots of oil smudges and scratches on my plastics)
Discovered the real cause of rattle. The sound actually comes from where the sun visor meets the headliner. The white plastic socket (pictured) where the sun visor plugs in has some wiggle room. When the car vibrates (be it from a bumpy road or what have you) it can slide against the interior cut out of the headliner. This makes an obnoxious crinkling sound.
At the moment I'm driving around with no sun visor on the passenger side-- and I also have no rattle (occasionally I might hear it from the driver side sun visor, but it's minor). I'll probably add some foam up there to add some more tension to alleviate the issue completely. Even just re-seating the sun visor and ensuring the screws are tight would probably have significant impact...
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I'm getting a mildew smell every time I turn on the AC in my Tiguan. Even if the car is warmed up and shut off for 5 minutes, when turned on again, the smell is there. It's a 2012 with only 15k miles and the cabin filter is brand new. I was thinking of getting the mold sprays to apply directly to the vents. What to do to resolve it?
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