Ok, I am new to the Tiguan but not new to VW engines. For the last 11 years I am driving a 1.8T and I test drove the newer GTIs and Audis with the 2.0T. But with my 2012 Tiguan S manual I find the engine to be a little loud and rough sounding. Especially under heavy load it more reminds me of a diesel than a 4 banger turbo. Now, is this this normal or is it just my engine?
View 16 RepliesOur 46K mile 2012 Tiguan starting making some pretty loud whining/growling/rattling engine noises recently so I took it to the dealer shop and they diagnosed a bad accessory belt tensioner. However, they didn't have one in stock and would have to order it. Well, that's fine but it's a 300 mile round trip to the dealer so I came home and ordered one from ECS Tuning.
I found a copy of an official VW (ETKA?) procedure on the web for replacing the tensioner for the TSI in a Golf so I suspect the procedure for a Tiguan is similar: remove the bolt for the secondary water pump and move the pump out of the way, remove the end bolt on the tensioner mounting shaft, remove the three bolts from the pendulum/dogbone, support the engine, remove the top two bolts from the passenger side engine mount, drop the engine about 2 inches and pull the tensioner out.
To be honest, I was very surprised that the dealership didn't have a tensioner in stock. This was a rather large and pretty good dealership shop (three service advisors). I guess accessory tensioner failure is really rare on the TSI.
Must preface this by saying I drive A LOT... about 600-1K per week for work, so unfortunately my Tiguan takes a beating. Bought it new (62 miles on it) in 8/2012. Had major misfire issues around 68-70K and had to get it towed. (AAA guy said Tiguan owners should know it is difficult to tow and required my husband to drive it up on the truck). Next day I replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, and got an oil change and dealership was nice enough to have it covered under part of a maintenance service package and only paid about 600 incl. labor which was nice. Been religious with oil changes and some big service items.
Car was working fine until about 95K, when the engine and the cooling fan started to sound extra loud. Then at 98K service and oil change (2 weeks ago), I had them check the tires anyways because I usually get new tires around 50-60K of driving. Dealership said the loud driving around 20-40 mph was due to the wear of the tires and I needed new brakes on both front and back. I understood that and needed new tires anyway. I set up an appointment to get them done at another place and the other place told me I only needed rear brakes and new tires.
Since last week it seems the turbo timer & cool down sounded a little strange (extra loud, extra fluttering sound near the front wheels, and yesterday was not making the cooling down sound after it was parked and turned off). Then Yesterday engine light turned on and VW couldn't take me for a week and a half!! Took it this morning to a repair shop I trust for years (but not VW specific) said the diagnostic showed it was a turbo issue so I will have to go back to the dealership next week anyways.
Getting all new tires with rear brakes today with transmission oil change. But very unhappy that this is happening. When I go back to the VW dealership? Hoping it is just the turbo timer which is a less expensive fix than the entire thing. Also any recommendations with service/maintenance for a Tiguan with climbing miles? Worst part is I just reached 100K miles from my last service 2 weeks ago. Just figured I'd list everything since most people don't have this many miles on their 2012 Tiguans SE 4Motion yet.
I have an issue with a slightly rough sounding engine and some white smoke on start up. It disappears very quickly. I have been told it may be glow plugs or an idle actuator thingy, how do i check which one it is. How can you tell if a glow plug is working or not. I have a 2006 Santa Fe 2.0 with 58000 on the clock.
View 2 Replies I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
I have a 2012 Tig S. I hear a rattle coming from under dash by steering wheel. It happens over rough pavement. Had it at the dealer, they replaced the sway bar linkage. The noise is still there. Service rep. says its normal. I drove another new Tig and it felt tight. I only have 12000 miles on it. Really like my Tig.
View 9 RepliesOur 2012 SE has an intermittent rattle somewhere in the rear of the Tiguan when riding on even moderately rough pavement. Ultimately I'll have to crawl around back there while my wife drives up and down a rough road to locate the rattle, I guess, What was the source of the rattle.
View 16 RepliesHave any other 2013 Tiguan S owners with Auto Trans noticed that the engine runs very loud with the AC on?
Currently I have around 600 miles on the clock and when I turn the AC on, the engine sounds way louder.
On top of that, when I'm cruising at 15 mph with the AC on and I give the car some gas, the transmission stumbles a bit and sometimes I hear a single click noise.
I recently bought a new 2016 r line, coming out of a 2013 gti 6 speed manual. This is my first suv ever and my first automatic trans in about 10 years, so needless to say it has been somewhat of an adjustment.
I love the drive of the Tiguan, but I was curious where people typically see their rpms shift at. I noticed that while driving on the highway, to accelerate with traffic it likes to shift at about 3000 rpm initially and then dropping, city/around town in around 2500. I wanted to make sure this rpm doesn't seem too high or low for this car.
Secondly, I did read some on this issue, but is everyone else's Tiguan somewhat loud when accelerating? My gti had the same engine and seemed a little quieter.it sounds almost like a Diesel engine inside the cabin, but not as loud as one would be. My wife drives a cx5 with 184 HP and hers is a decent amount quieter. Noticed the engine being a little noisy?
Went out to run some errands this morning, and was alarmed to hear a loud, tinny-sounding banging noise from the rear of the car. It would occur on every bump. little or big; every time I braked; every time I started up from a stop; after each shift to a higher gear; and every time I turned a corner.
I was getting really concerned, as I had never heard a noise quite like this on any car, ever before. When I got home, I pulled the floor jack out of the garage, then went to the trunk to get my torque wrench with the wheel bolt socket on it.
When I opened the trunk, this is what I saw: ...
It could happen once a month or 3 times a day. No pattern and never the first time I start my car for the day. But I will be running errands, park the tiguan, run into a store for 5, 15 or 30 minutes and when I get back in my car and start it up and go, it dies when shifting from 1st to 2nd. I know how to drive stick. This doesn't happen every time. I have called/taken it to the dealer 5 times and they have no clue because it never happens with them and I cannot predict when it will happen again. Also, on occasions, when i start my car, halfway through the day, the engine will idle really rough then the RPM's will spike and the car gives itself gas and my foot is definitely on the brake. These little issues are starting to piss me off, especially since the dealer just shrugs its shoulders.
View 12 RepliesNew 2012 Tiguan S with a manual, 800 miles and the check engine light comes. Seems to idle a little rough, at least the idle seems to fluctuate a bit. The real disappointing part is I took it in to the dealer expecting an easy fix within an hour, its now been at the dealer for 2.5 days and they'll have it over the weekend as well. They tried putting several parts in it, still didn't fix it. They called VW who said pull out the new parts, put back the old parts, and apply some software update. Dealer did that, still not fixed.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
I brought my 06 in for service last week to have the creaky steering wheel fixed (under warranty or I'd have done it myself). Upon leaving my seat belt chime sounds horrible - almost like the speaker is blown. Really loud and harsh.
View 7 RepliesA few days ago, my CEL came on when I got to work, I assumed it was a misfire because when I got off work it was off. Now, I just got to work and my CEL came on when I left my house. I have been noticing engine sputtering/wastegate when I'm around 2-3k rpm, hovering around 20-35mph, after that I don't notice it. I bought the car used at 39k miles, the 40k service, nor an oil change has been done since last september. (not sure if that's a factor). I've skimmed the forums and head it could possibly be the spark plugs/coil plugs/ or turbo.
View 6 RepliesMy daughters 07 Accent quit a few days back. She managed to get it home but it was making a noise on the left side of the block before it died again. I started it the next morning and it was rough sounding for a minute or two before it died. There has been a check engine light on for quite some time that I was unaware of. A friend had a brand new fuel pump he sold me (very cheaply) so I installed that yesterday but the starter just cranks with no combustion at all. I will check for spark this AM and if there is none I will likely replace the crank sensor.
I've checked any and all fuses under the hood and all seem fine (although I've never seen the type with the two little "balls" but they seem to by fine also) My question concerns the timing belt. If I have spark and fuel pressure, how do I check for a bad timing belt ? I looked in through the oil cap filler for cam lobes but can't see past what looks like an oil "spout" part at the filler. Also, if the belt is gone would it bend the valves on this motor ? If the belt has stripped teeth and screws the timing I should still get some sort of very rough firing in a cylinder or two, shouldn't I ?
I have a 1999 SD V10 with about 133K on it. Runs great to the day. Recently I noticed alot of clicking and rough sounding noise coming from the a/c compressor the other day. Yep I got up underneath it and it look like it's about shot.
My question is : How hard is it to replace the clutch yourself with a new one. Are there any step by step direction here on the ford forums on how to do it. Looks like can just replace the a/c clutch and be good to go. A/C still blows cold air.
I took it to my mechanic the other day and they want $ for a replacement compressor and labor. I'd like to try and avoid that amount for now and just replace the clutch.
So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
View 5 RepliesOver the last several days I've noticed a faint whining noise coming from the engine when I pull into the garage. Sounds similar to the noise you hear when you keep an elevator door open for too long.
This is the first turbo engine that I've had so I'm not really familiar with the sounds it may or may not produce, and whether this is normal behavior.
I have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
View 19 RepliesWell I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..