Tiguan :: 2012 2.0 TDi Misfire And Sputters Then Stalls On Startup
Jul 24, 2016
I have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
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My 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
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A few days ago, my CEL came on when I got to work, I assumed it was a misfire because when I got off work it was off. Now, I just got to work and my CEL came on when I left my house. I have been noticing engine sputtering/wastegate when I'm around 2-3k rpm, hovering around 20-35mph, after that I don't notice it. I bought the car used at 39k miles, the 40k service, nor an oil change has been done since last september. (not sure if that's a factor). I've skimmed the forums and head it could possibly be the spark plugs/coil plugs/ or turbo.
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Drove the car, 20 min to shopping, and when I came out the car would sputter and die??!! it happened a few times.. it would crank for really a long time, engine would fire up but sputter & die. I was cussing & let the car sit at mall parking lot for a bit, thinking I'll have to cab home but it started up again after 10 min and drove fine. It happened on a parking lot, not on the highway.
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Truck spits and sputters when it starts up..and now it does it more often New spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter New mass air flow. I changed fuel octain and that work for a few weeks and back it spits...... It seems that when I put something new in the truck it runs great for a few weeks and then it starts up again...... I can not find a fuel regulator that fits the one that is on the truck now......so I have not replaced it........
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After driving through high water (only 12"-18" deep), my 2002 Suburban stalled. It restarted but runs rough, doesn't idle well, and still stalls and sputters under acceleration. A week later (it's been dry and I've driven it 70 or so miles since the water), it's still stalling and sputtering. Under braking, I must keep the accelerator down enough to keep the RPMs slightly above 1000 or it will stall. Obviously something got wet that shouldn't have gotten wet.
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Ford E150 Conversion Van 1991, V8. Replaced spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injector, cleaned gas tank, replaced gas. Ignition turns and starts but sputters loudly and stalls soon after. We've tried just about everything but it won't stay running.
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I have a 2001 mercury cougar, every time the fuel gets to a half tank or below it stalls when going up a hill or around a curve, anytime u give it extra acceleration when it's a half tank or below it stalls and sputters, it's been in the shop for 3 months and got it out and ran good for a day now back bad I need a mechanics advice on what it could be other than fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, or plugs and wires... I've tried all of them...
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I have a 09 chevy aveo5 and just recently when i fill up my car it sputters and stalls 2-3 times before it stays on, I never let it get completely empty could this be a air in my gas line?
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1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
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My Element sputters and/or stalls after driving through standing water in the roadway as during a heavy rain. Not really deep water, just normal roadway puddles and gutter overflow. Does not happen in light rain, but has happened after a car wash with an undercarriage wash. Feels like the car is running out of gas, sputtery, no response when giving it gas, may or may not stall. After driving a few minutes, the problem goes away.
Two mechanics, including the dealer, have looked at it and can find no obvious reason, but of course it never exhibits the problem at the shop. Both mechanics say this could be umpteen different causes.
I've only owned the car about 10 mos (purchased used through dealer with warranty, one owner, clean carfax, pristine maintenance) and this has happened maybe 5-6 times. ~112k miles.
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Trying to do some trouble shooting on my own as I'm tired of spending $$ with my local "diesel" garage and getting ripped off. To start with, here's my symptoms:
1. Hard (very hard) to start in the morning. Gets harder every morning. Took me 10 minutes of cranking yesterday morning
2. Once it does start it's very loud, seems to run on just a couple of cylinders and lot's of white smoke
3. After about 10 minutes it's able to get down the road but then at about 2300 RPM and above it sputters, low power, and LOTS of white smoke again.
4. Lots of diesel smell, almost like it has a leak but no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
I've done a lot of research and seems to be leading me towards injector problem or in that general vicinity. However, my first step is to try to narrow it down a little more before I start throwing parts at it. So, first question is: what's my best option for downloading codes? I guess I need one that is CAN capable but seems like most of these or either a few thousand $$ or I have to go to something like a Scanguage or Bullydog. I've thought about putting a tuner on but I guess at that point I'm committing to keeping the truck for a few more years.
So, just initially looking for info on diagnostics equipment and/or test that will eliminate the issue(s). Second, need inputs on possible problems based on symptoms listed above that would be great too. Had EGR delete done a year or so ago.
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My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
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Car spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
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2002 Passat 1.8T
Backstory. The P0411 code shes had for quite some time. I think probably 4 years maybe. Just never did anything about it because I guess they are expensive to fix. Thats the SAIP and combi valve correct? Anyway to remove all the emissions stuff and get the codes deleted?
So, about 3 weeks ago, maybe a little longer i cleaned her engine bay, replaced a few vacuum lines because the shop she took it to last year did a terrible job. Mind you, they did a head gasket, timing belt and some other minor things while they were in there. And they couldn't take the time you run new vacuum lines, since they just cut the originals and used a bunch of t fittings to "solve" the problem.
Anyway, i replaced the lines and it seemed to run better at idle, still had a little mis at idle but ran smooth at speed. I also did an oil change, put some fuel injector cleaner in it, put some seafoam in the oil, and cleaned the engine bay thoroughly. I did it properly and took all the plastics off, cleaned them, scrubbed the bay and used an air hose to get rid of the excess water. Left in a nice state. Ran smoother, looked better, so on and so forth.
Fast forward to last week, and she mentions to me her car isnt running right. Its sputtering, hesitates, running rough, exhaust is puttering, and it used up a lot of gas. She parked it for a few days, and i came down to look at it. Mind you, i don't have a code reader. So I looked at it blindly thinking it had an ignition issue. Nothing could have changed that quick since i looked at it.
So, today we got one coil(just in case ones bad), and 4 new plugs (Autolite Iridiums). Replaced and gaped the plugs to .030, torqued to 23 ft/lbs and started the car. Seemed to run a bit better, but subsided quickly. I then pulled each coil harness plug to make sure it would misfire on each cylinder and it did. So, new plugs and the coils checked out. Time to get its codes read.
Took it to the Pepboys and the codes it came back with were the P0011, P300, P0301-3. Cleared the codes and they came back nearly immediately. I had the dreaded P0011 code. The misfire codes im guessing were from the coils being pulled on each one, and also due to the P0011. Now i read a lot of threads about the P0011 and how its usually not the camshaft position sensor. However, i pulled the plug on that while the car was running and nothing changed. So i thought it could be the CPS. Changed that out and still nothing.....
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I have a 01 f-150, 4.6L, with 160k miles on it. Symptoms: It idles fine with an occasional surge. It sputters in all gears like a misfire (all plugs and COPS replaced 2 months ago). Sometimes it stalls out going down highway or as I turn in my driveway. It also seems like its slipping a little without the "hard jerking into gear". Occasionally the rpm meter will peg low and then return to normal.
The only code that I received was P1451. I changed the canister vent solenoid but the symptoms remain. I've checked voltage on the TPS (the variable voltage checked out but I didn't get the 5V ref. voltage). I've cleaned the MAF sensor. I've also changed the fuel filter. I've resistance checked the connector to the PCM and found several pins that are at ground. I'm not sure what to do next.
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We have an older Camry (1996 V6) with 159K miles on it that we are going to use for my gf's daughter's first car. It sat unused for a while and her father is giving her the car. The issue is that when you initially start it you have to keep the foot on the gas or it will stall. It does a bit better when it warms up but it can still stall if you let off the gas quickly. The plug wires look quite new so I expect the plugs are new as well (will confirm with her dad). I pulled the throttle body and it doesn't seem to be very dirty but I will clean it anyway and change the air filter. What I did notice is when I pulled the vacuum line (I'm guessing that's what it is, I am not mechanic) it was split longitudinally through the clamp. I am going to replace the hose but am wondering if the throttle intake is fairly clean if this could be the cause of the rough idle. I've watched a video on-line that shows how to clean the throttle body.
The battery looks fairly new but I don't have my voltage meter to test it. I have cleaned all the connections because I have heard that a weak battery or bad connection can also affect the way the engine runs. This Camry doesn't have a voltage meter, only a dummy light. The light doesn't come on so I'm thinking we don't have a problem with not getting enough power to the computer.
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T and have had a check engine light for the past month or so. I was finally able to get it to one of my local mechanics who specializes in german made cars. He showed me where one of my vacuum lines had split open, then proceeded to splice the line with a t-fitting and a new length of hose and then reset the check engine light.
Well, the engine light has stayed off, but now when I start the car, it almost stalls out right after startup, then proceeds to idle and run fine. The mechanic thinks that since the car was running for so long with that vacuum leak that the ECU needs to to "reset" itself to the different pressure.
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I have about 7k miles on the car. I have had this slight burning oil smell in start up for a while now. I couldn't find any leaks, and no smoke or anything else. It doesn't happen on every start, it's pretty random.
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Well, after owning 4 other VW's, this one has left me "stranded". I bought my 2012 Autobahn GTI back in September and it had been absolutely problem free up until now. I have the APR flash and Carbonio intake as my only modifications for reference.
I drove over to my girlfriend's house yesterday around 5:30pm, had no issues or anything up until this point. I get into my car around 10:30pm, ready to go home and push the starter. The car cranks up, then sputters out. This has actually happened once or twice before when I pushed the starter too quickly, so I chalked it up to that. I push the starter again, I get a click, and then nothing. A ton of warning lights come on, I get a couple warning messages come up, one about an error with the ESC, and one about the adaptive lighting system. The car's fan turns on, as if the car was running.
I try to start the car a few more times without any luck, and keep getting the same warning messages. I then got out of the car, locked the doors and let the car go to sleep. I wait 15 minutes and try starting the car again, still can't start. At this point I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel, but I decided to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, hoping that when I reconnect I'll be able to start it. It still didn't work. At this point I know I'm going to have to take it to the dealer, so I try to put the car back into stock mode. I couldn't even do that.
I ended up having to call roadside assistance. To add to my frustration, I requested a flat bed and instead a front-wheel lift one came. I had my car towed to the dealer, had my gf follow the tow truck to the dealer and filled out the night drop off form and left my key.
This morning I call the service department, trying to inquire about my car and the service adviser tells me "your car has severe electrical issues and we are not going to be able to diagnose them today." He asked me if I had any performance software on the car, and I tell him that this is my 5th VW that I've owned, and that every one has had the same APR software on it. I had my car flashed back in September or October, and that I've never had an issue with it with any car. The service adviser then tells me that this is going to have to go to his manager to write off on it if they determine this is caused by my flash or not.
Now I'm stuck without a car, at least through Monday. I asked for a service loaner and they told me they had none and that since they are closed on Sunday, the soonest I might be able to get one is Monday. I just started a new job and have no vacation time saved up, so the timing of this is certainly not ideal. I know that I assumed responsibility by getting the flash, but I've got my fingers and toes crossed that they don't point the blame on the flash and make me pay out of pocket for this.
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So I'm nearing my wits end. I have an '11 GTI DSG, CCTA, second owner. The problem has been happening as soon as I bought it, when it was only 6 months old.
When the engine is not fully warm, but warm-ish, the engine doesn't reliably start on the first try. I have KESSY, so I push the start button and hold it. When I release it (not too soon, mind you) the engine will idle very rough. The tach will bounce between 200 and 700 rpm. Sometimes the engine will die completely. Other times, the idle will stabilize at the right engine speed after a few seconds of roughness.
It seems like this happens most often when the car has been parked for 1 to 3 hours. However, I have had it happen very rarely when cold as well as minutes after parking. But definitely it seems to happen mostly when it has been allowed to cool slightly for 1-3 hours.
I've got youtube videos. I'll post links. I've contacted VWOA. I have a case. They tested the fuel system and believe everything is okay. They told me they suspected bad gas. I religiously used Shell 93. So they, under warranty, flushed the fuel tank. Okay, so I switched to Chevron 93. Well, the problem still happens!!! As far as I know, no parts have been replaced yet.
My car is at the dealership now, they called me today and want to give up. This would be the 5th time I've taken it in for this problem.
One thing I forgot to mention. When the engine has just started and is idling roughly, if I stab the gas pedal a little, it will bring up the revs to 2-3000rpm and 90% of the time the engine will then settle into a smooth idle immediately after the revs drop. It's almost as if the mixture is so rich that it has got the plugs wet (if this were carbureted, that'd be the first thing I would suspect)
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