Tiguan :: 2011 - Transmission Repeatedly Trying To Get Into Gear When Putting In D
Jul 30, 2013
I've got a 2011 tiguan SEL 4motion and occasionally it feels like after starting the car and putting it in D (typically only when it's moved right into D) it seems to feel like the transmissions is repeatedly trying to get into gear. It doesn't seem to effect being able to drive off just seemed odd and kind of annoying. Or like the torque converter was locking and unlocking repeatedly.
I've also felt the same occasional jolt while sitting at a stop. I'll be bringing the car in for a 40k soon and will be having them check it out, but thought I'd see if this was a typical thing.
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My 3 month old Tiguan will buck repeatedly when my foot is on the brake after shifting from P to D or S on occasion. If I put it back in Park then shift back to drive or sport, it goes away... I took it to the dealer and they couldn't reproduce the issue after a few hours. It has happened to me a few times now, and it is quite concerning. I'm guessing it is either the trans or maybe the Turbo baffle causing the issue, but can;t find any info online.
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I have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
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So we have a new 2011 Tiguan with about 3,300 miles. I noticed a while ago that when coming to a stop, or rolling a few feet and stopping the driveline would almost "thump" when stopped. You can feel it like the torque converter is releasing, or it's engaging a gear and almost moving forward a bit. The other day it seemed to be getting worse, and it's very repeatable as an issue. This is our second Tiguan, the previous being 4motion and this one being FWD.
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Sometimes when I stop at a light about 5 seconds after I come to a complete stop, I'll feel a bump in my transmission likes its trying to lunge forward. Today I started my car and put it in drive and when I did so with the brake applied, it was rhythmically bumping once every 2 second or so, almost like a heartbeat. It did it about 15 times and I shut my car off, started back up and it hasn't done it since. I know the first issue is somewhat common but the second one where it kept doing it was really weird. It has about 35k miles and is already on its second tranny(per car fax changed at 2k).
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Looking to put on a larger downpipe and high flow cat, 034 makes one for the Q5, but couldn't find anything for the Tiguan... would a golf r dp be the same? since its AWD like the Tiguan, I know that's reaching out there, though.
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So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
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This morning while driving on the freeway, the the transmission stopped shifting into 6th gear. This was at 70 mph. The only way it would shift up to 6th is by using the manual mode, however after manually shifting to 6th I moved the stick back over and it immediately downshifted to 5th at 70+ mph. Concerned, I pulled off and turned the engine off. After i restarted the engine, I continued to my destination and the trans shifted up to 6th on its own. The car has never done this.
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My Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
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4400 miles on it. Over last few days the transmission started to slip. First gear engages fine, but the change to 2nd involves a rev....(with no acceleration) till it finally grabs.
Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
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Just got my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 on June 15th. For most of the time I had it, the in-dash LCD showed the 6 gears (on the right side of the display) for the trans & highlighted which gear it was in at any time (in Automatic mode, not select-shift). It disappeared & I can't figure out how to get it back?????? Nothing is listed in the manual.
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I have a 2011 F150 EB SCREW 4x4. Built in september 2011. The issue seems to have started recently as follows:
1st incident- driving normal, came to stop, accelerate from stop (normally) and the truck was stuck in first gear. Pulled over, shut it off, waited, restarted and seemd ok.
2nd incident (today)- driving normal at around 40mph in 6th gear and all of a sudden the transmission violently jumped to 1st gear for no reason! Then slowly geared back up to 6th again.
Also, I have sometimes noticed that soon after startup, but adequately warmed up, the truck will seem to keep pulling forward at a stop light with the brakes on hard...rpm is at normal idle but it seems like the torque converter will not "let go".
I'm going to be calling the dealer but need feedback, especially regarding any TSB's, SSM's etc for this?
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Sounds like it's coming from the gray plastic that's attached to the center console.
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I'm looking to put a 4.5" lift and 37s on my 2011 F250 which has the 6.2L gas engine and wanted some feedback from others who have the same setup. The kind of info I'm looking for is how much power did you lose, does the trans drop out of overdrive a lot on the highway, what you mpg, etc. And overall driving and performance of the truck.
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On my 2012 Avalon, moving shifter to the left of "D" for manual mode causes a downshift to 4th gear. Is it supposed to do this? For me, this would be poor design in that I may be setting up to pass, but not quite ready to downshift to 5th yet. And even going 60mph it still gets 4th... Or I may be going to climb a mountain (as I was going to Colorado last week) and only need 5th, not 4th. So I have to upshift to 5th AFTER I move to manual mode..
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I have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
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My issues: when I'm on gear 1 for example, on hot days, and only on hot days ( 25 deg.c and more) when I put it on neutral it suppose to go at "home" position ( i think this is how you guys call it, like align with the 3rd gear) But it stays align the the first.
Same with all the gears. It's stays aligned with the gear I just left.
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I have a 92 2wd with a 5.7 and it keeps getting way to hot. I have changed the water pump, Thermostat (fail safe), and heater core and had the entire system flushed. and it is still getting really hot. If is is in park it does not get hot, but when i put it in gear it gets over the half way mark in just a couple minutes. I have noticed that it has an after market transmission cooler to me it looks to small for a my truck it is a 12in square and 3/4in thick. The radiator has the holes for the Transmission lines but they have been pluged off. Should I go back to a factory setup and flush the lines or upgrade the size of the cooler? and is there a way for me to flush the transmission lines myself?
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Outside of lawnmowers, this is my first carbureted engine. I have always fixed stuff that broke on the vehicles I've owned, and done some difficult (for me) task such as replacing a timing belt on a honda, and mcpherson strutts and a head gasket on a 4 cylinder SAAB.
I'm the new owner of a '68 F100 that was originally a 3 on the tree inline six. It's been converted to an FE390 with an automatic transmission (C6 I believe). It has an edelbrock 1411 (750CFM). I've recently got it running at idle of it's own gas tank. This is the list of work I've performed since getting it.
Replaced:
old gas
old oil
brake master cylinder
old dot3
plugs and wires
I also added 3-4 quarts of F-type tranny fluid.
Related to the Carb all i've done is removed it and dumped some carb cleaner in the bowls.
The Problem is:
Car starts and idles fine. When I drop it into any gear, the engine bogs down and begins to idle much slower. If i feather the gas pedal, or punch it, the engine dies.
I'm told that the carburetor had some components replaced (springs/jets) to make it run properly, so my guess is that it is closer to a 1407 now, just with electronic choke. I'm intimidated by tearing the carb apart and attempting to rebuild it, but I'm willing to do it if that's what it will take, I'm also willing to buy a new carb to avoid 12 hours of work trying to fix the existing one, but I'm afraid I'll have tuning issues beyond my capabilities even with a new carb. Also, the truck doesn't have a tach to assist in the tuning process.
I'd love to bolt something on and start driving, but I'm guessing it won't be that easy. Is it most likely a carb problem? Any recommendations on what I should do, considering my total lack of experience with carburetors?
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I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS and it has about 84,000 miles on it. Sometimes in the morning the car will not start and I have to start it in reverse... Often times the check engine light will come on and stay on and other times it will go out. Sometimes when I am putting the car in reverse it stalls out... Then there is this horrible loose knocking noise that I think it coming from the steering wheel... Is this car about to put me down?
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I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
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