Tiguan :: 2011 - Stalling But No Engine Codes Came Up
Feb 23, 2014
Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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I have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
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I have an MK6 2011 GTI that's been rock solid, but I'm having a weird problem with my 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg with 52k miles. The 5yr warranty expired in July.
This weekend my wife catch a nail on the road and got a flat tire on the rear right side. It was the late night, no open tire shop open. We put the spare tire drive to home. Next morning when I was going to the tire shop the Tiguan and a message appeared on the MFI.
Here's the codes/messages that appeared at the same time.
ESP/ABS error.
Airbag error.
Steering wheel light on. (Yellow)
Electric Parking Brake light on. (Yellow)
Does a fault abs sensor would light all this? I saw there's a air bag error recall in a thread. I ordered the abs sensor, also the tensioner update kit to prevent failure?
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I have a 2010 Tiguan and the check engine light has come on. When I use my ODB scan tool it doesn't find any codes and the check engine light won't go on. What might be the problem?
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I had My VW tiguan 2011, Died all of a sudden, where went to supermarket and went out and the car is not starting at all.
So next morning had it towed to the dealership for investigation. Now after a week of tests and investigation and replacement of Fuel HP pump @ the engine still not working.
They did pressure test, and surprise came "no compression on all 4 cylinders".
They will need to open the engine and do further investigation. Hope it's just a gasket leakage
The car is still less than 5 years and mileage is 174K km, just made oil top up and general checks few days before the incident. all services @ dealership if not on-time, before time.
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Got my Tiguan SE at the end of July and had a transmission failure this weekend. Was turning left at a light and transmission failed. Engine was revving, but no traction. Finally got to a safe location and D, S and R gears were no responsive. Catalytic converter light came on as well as the Wrench icon at the top left of the information panel.
Waited two hours for VW roadside assistance and Tiguan is sitting at the dealership to be looked at tomorrow morning.
Needless to say, very distressed. Haven't even made my first payment yet and got stranded in the middle of a busy street.
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I bought a new ABT Quad Tip Exhaust and replace the stock, it looks nice, but it has a ear drum killer drone between 2000 - 3000 rpm at all gears, and it peaks at around 2500 rpm.
Under 2000 rpm and above 3000 rpm, the exhaust is silent and i can actually hear the engine noise.
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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I bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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I'm the owner of a 2009 4-motion SEL with 85,000 kms....recently it has been stalling out after startup. Sometimes this occurs after driving away, but most frequently before. It usually works fine after a couple of starting attempts. I've read through some posts regarding the high pressure fuel pump as a possibility. I've also noticed a pump or fan type hum that lasts for 5-10 min. emanating from the rear of the vehicle after shutting it down. Not sure if this is normal or could be related?
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I bought a 2011 F-450 with 205,000 Miles on it with a blow engine. Local shop installed a Ford NEW complete engine. Unfortunately we had Code P24A5 EGR Cooler Bypass Control Stuck after the swap. Truck drives fine just has CEL on. Goes to FORD and they test Vacuum from engine, on line, and on compents say all is good. Replace Vacuum switch and Control and neither fix it. Ford stumped and quits responding. So i go get my truck back since they wont respond and had it over 2 weeks.
I get it back and now it has Codes P04DA Closed Loop EGR AT Limit - Flow to high and P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor in Range but Lower than expected. I also have a P21BO for the reductant level sensor "C" Circuit High.
Since picking it up from Ford, Truck has almost no throttle until oil temperature warms up. I clear codes, truck runs good after warming up and no CEL comes on. Drove it for over an hour. Next key cycle, and CEL is on with all the above codes. Could something be hooked up wrong? Where to start?
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I've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
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2 weeks ago I had the check engine light come up on my 2011 F-250 6.2 XLT. Did a diagnostic check and Codes P2098 and P2272 came up. Did some research and found out the second O2 sensor on passenger side had gone bad. I replaced it with a Motorcraft O2 sensor and cleared the code. It has not came back since. But still not getting the fuel mileage I got before. What else could be wrong?
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I own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
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Installed recirculating cc with PVC plate fills up with eng. oil 60mls. Rosstech shows no codes. Performance is An-ok. no oil consumption, boost gauge shows no vac. leak. We are at a loss. I noticed from the PVC system explanation that there is a check valve in the honeycomb insert in the oil pan to prevent eng. oil intake under high vac. If that valve fails could that cause my problem? With or without the cc there are no performance issues.
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We just bought an 1998 JGC Laredo and it ran fine for the first week, then started stalling. Our mechanic originally thought it was the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and replaced it, and we thought that solved the problem since it ran better. They made a comment at the time that the previous owner had been "chasing this problem for a while since most of the ignition parts had been replaced (computer, CPS, coil, etc)
In a few days though, it started stalling and we took it back to them. Note, no error codes, and the check engine light never came on. After scratching their heads for a while, the finally did a "wiggle test" on the wiring and found that one of the plugs on the computer was loose, and the plug itself needs to be replaced. I can easily make the car stall by just pushing down on the plug a little.
I temporarily have it working much better by using wire ties and securing the plug down to the computer, but at some point I will need to replace it. Make sure if you replace it, you get one from a Jeep with the same S/N on your computer. Jeep was very bad about making changes to the computers and systems and you could easily get an incompatible one.
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No codes showing up but my dodge is stalling out on me when i come to a stop sign or red light. When I first start it up and go somewhere it is fine but once the truck warms up it starts doing this. Have put it on a computer and nothing shows up. It has a v8, the smaller one.
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I have a 2006 Sentra that over the last few months on a few occasions (3-4) when driving on the highway would jolt into the next gear.
Last week, the car simply died on me waiting at a light and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The car did not start again for about a minute. It did. When I drove it home, the car accelerated slightly on its own into the driveway. I took it into the local Nissan dealer. They found no error codes of any kind. They recommended a whole bunch of things that more or less needed to get done anyways but the pertient one is that they flushed and refilled the transmission fluid and replaced the filter.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue but... not ruling anything out. Hoping it is not a transmission issue.
So I took the car home. A week of local light driving with no issues. I got on the highway yesterday to go to a meeting and the RPMs start fluctuating wildly from 1500-3500. I got off the highway and the car stalled out on me three times on the 10 mile or so drive back to the dealership. It did start on those occassions right away.
They claim they've had multiple people test driving the car over the last couple of days and no one is experiencing what I did. Still no error codes anywhere.
I absolutely do not feel safe driving this thing on the highway at this point. What do I do? They seem to be at the end of their diagnostic capabilities and short of randomly repairing every single part on a ten year old car that might be causing this seems... silly.
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My driver side bi-xenon bulb was out, so I go to replace the bulb and it still doesn't turn on. I scanned my car with my vagcom, and I get this error.
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-30-H.lbl
Part No SW: 3C8 937 049 E HW: 3C8 937 049 E
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2602
Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000008706034
Coding: E78C8FA300041C004719000014000000002AF7475C40012539 0000000000
[Code] .....
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I have a '10 tiguan awd wolfs. The other day I was stuck in traffic and the temp started to run away. Got home and a few checks. No coolant leaks and the 40A fan fuse is ok.
I did a scan and vcds found this:
006470 - Control Module 1 for Coolant Fan
P1946 - 000 - Defective
From what I've found the new(er) style control module is no longer a small brick; it's located within the main fan motor. I dropped the rad assembly, installed the new one and cleared the dtc code in the engine control module. Immediately the code comes back and the fans never kick on.
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