Is rattling under acceleration normal on the tig? Sounds like a heatshield to me or something, usually around 2500 rpm or so, pretty disappointing on a 35k dollar vehicle.
Imagine a drawer of silverware being shaken around, that's kind of what it sounds like, mostly noticeable with the windows down.
Noticed a light rattling noise during acceleration? It only seems to do it at lower rpms then stops? I feel like I remember reading something about the wastegate causing this? but I don't remember where i saw that?
View 24 RepliesWhen I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
View 24 RepliesSo I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
IMG_4285.MOV ...
I have a 97 f150 with 4.2 4x4 auto. I have a bad miss under acceleration. if i ease on the gas no problems. stomp it and it chugs and pops back thru airbox til it gets to 2500 rpm then clears up. If I shift it manually and keep rpms up its fine till it gets below 2500. I have replaced spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, cleaned injectors, new air filter and cleaned o2 and mas sensors. Had vacuum system checked and was told all good.
View 12 RepliesThe problem started with a slight hesitation around 2500 under hard acceleration. Then it became more pronounced from 2 to 3.5k. The CEL would blink when it happened for more than a few seconds. Eventually the CEL stayed on. Now the car idles roughly with a periodic thump feeling, and any time a load is put on the engine, it feels very rough. I don't have VAG-COM, so I don't have any codes.
View 3 RepliesWhen I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
97 f150 4.6 4x4, no check engine light, no missing or sputtering, however when I try to get going I can't get passed 2500 rpm and when it finally does its still kind of sluggish and can't pass as easy. Changed fuel filter. It idles fine and when I put it in neutral it will go up to 5000 rpm if I want.
View 6 RepliesI have an 03 Camry LE with 80,000 miles I do all the maintenance myself it has had the alternator replaced once at around 40,000 miles. The problem that just started is a whistling sound that ONLY is audible after 2500 rpm at acceleration. When the car is in park no matter how much I revive the engine I can not get it to make the whistle sound it ONLY can be heard at acceleration after 2500 rpms.
Also once I cease to accelerate it goes away while I'm driving there is NO Whistling. I've read that it could be the alternator so I had it checked twice on the car and it checked out good it passed all tests. I've removed the belt and spun the pulley to listen for bad bearing but to me sounded fine. I've removed the throttle body boot and checked for cracks an found nothing also cleaned throttle body (not that it needed it) while I had it off.
Also checked air box and nothing. The only thing I've done recently was take out cabin air filter to clean and replaced it but there was no problem with that. What's puzzling is that it ONLY occurs at acceleration after 2500 rpms then stops after acceleration.
I just bought a 2014 Tiguan. When going over cabblestones I here a rattling noise on the left side of the car. At the dealership they told me that it is normal for the type of transmission. Is that really normal?
View 6 RepliesMy 2009 tig got a rattle on the driver side sun visor its minor but since its in my face id like to take care of it. When it gets above zero I plan to take a look to see if something can be done.
View 2 RepliesAny 'rattle' from their front suspension when going over high-frequency, low speed bumps (manhole covers, potholes etc)?Sounds like a loose strut mount or shock. It's not a creaking sound - a definite rattle - so I don't think it's the engine mount issue that I've read about elsewhere. Car is brand new and is going in for a 60 day courtesy check in a couple of weeks.
View 24 Replies2011 Sonata GDS. I previously purchased 19" Gen coupe wheels and never had a problem immediately. Approximately 2 months later of driving with the 19" wheels, when I got onto the highway one day, the car did a slight jerk with acceleration and the acceleration halted for a split second. Ever since that day, anytime I accelerate fast and/or reach highway speeds, the car has a delay when I hit the throttle. The car then has a "rattle" "groaning" sound that comes when the RPMs hit around 2000-2500 rpm. It will go away if I drive slow speeds/slow RPMs or shut the car off for a short amount of time. I have taken my car to the Hyundai dealer 3 times. I've had the adaptive values for the transmission and engine reset and that didn't do anything. I had a mechanic ride with me in the car to make sure they were hearing the sound and the delay in shifting and the mechanic was very shocked and had never even heard a sound like this before.
View 10 RepliesI have a B5.5 1.8T 5 Speed FWD and I was wondering if there was a way to convert it to a 4motion?
View 3 RepliesAlright, need to decide between a 2000 Passat 4motion with 108k miles, no maintenance history - OR - a 1997 Toyota 4runner, all maintenance history available, 150k, new breaks, timing and water pump just done. The VW is 1k more. I should add the 4runner has zero rust, and no frame rot.
Here is why I'm having a hard time.
1. I like VW's
2. MPG / Cost for gas is actually LESS for the 4runner... no premium, 4motion nets 17mpg avg - 4runner nets 16mpg avg (I drive 50/50 city highway).
The roads where I live are HORRIBLE - 1ft deep potholes are normal in the city, and unavoidable, expansion joints rise up to 4" at times- which feels like hitting a damn log.
I wrench my own cars, I've never gone to a mechanic or dealer ever. Had a mk2 gti, mk2 jetta, mk3 vr6 gti, a mk3 cabrio, and a mk4 jetta 1.8t in my past. Ive done timing belts, CV's, wheel bearings, control arms, struts, rebuilt heads. BUT- the Passat looks to be a complete PITA to work on (insane timing belt procedure, 8 front control arms, TCM water rot issues, etc). The 4runner appears on surface- to be much easier to wrench on - I could be wrong. I do have a VAGCOM, which supports a bit on the VW.
I love VW's - but I want AWD (or true 4x4), space, and something I can actually work on. The reason for AWD is I have family near the upper peninsula of MI I would like to visit year round.
I have a 2002 Passat 4motion 2.8 automatic. I recently moved from PA to Florida and love my car but don't need AWD down here. Could I possibly disconnect the drive components going to the rear of the car...also hoping to get better gas mileage from the disconnect.
View 2 RepliesMy Tiguan is 2013 with 3k miles on it. There is a rattling sort of noise in the 2-3k RPM range which I think is turbo related. It is much louder when cold and quieter when warmed up. Is that normal turbo noise in the Tiguan? If so, why does it minimize when warm? And why does it not continue above 3k RPM? My Audi A4 with similar 2.0 Turbo does not make this noise.
View 9 RepliesSo we've recently surpassed 11,000 miles on our 2010 Wolfsburg. Overall we really love the Tiguan and aside from a few minor issues, it's been trouble free.
Over the past month I've been putting a lot of miles in doing some out of state travel and have been on some roads that lets say, have been less than smooth ... lots of potholes (filled and not), old pavement, etc and I'm starting to get, or maybe just notice some squeaks and rattles.
Most of them seem to be coming from trim points ... at least thats how it sounds, but the one that is really annoying me the most is the drivers side sun visor. Even when locked into position there's a little bit of play in the visor and it's a really annoying squeak.
When the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....
Our 46K mile 2012 Tiguan starting making some pretty loud whining/growling/rattling engine noises recently so I took it to the dealer shop and they diagnosed a bad accessory belt tensioner. However, they didn't have one in stock and would have to order it. Well, that's fine but it's a 300 mile round trip to the dealer so I came home and ordered one from ECS Tuning.
I found a copy of an official VW (ETKA?) procedure on the web for replacing the tensioner for the TSI in a Golf so I suspect the procedure for a Tiguan is similar: remove the bolt for the secondary water pump and move the pump out of the way, remove the end bolt on the tensioner mounting shaft, remove the three bolts from the pendulum/dogbone, support the engine, remove the top two bolts from the passenger side engine mount, drop the engine about 2 inches and pull the tensioner out.
To be honest, I was very surprised that the dealership didn't have a tensioner in stock. This was a rather large and pretty good dealership shop (three service advisors). I guess accessory tensioner failure is really rare on the TSI.
Does your car make an annoying whining sound when accelerating? My engine wines almost as if it had a S/C. You can only hear it when you rev under 2200rpm.
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