So I just filled my wife's 11 Tig up and it averaged 17mpg! She doesn't drive it hard or heavy on the gas so this kinda sucks.
My only idea that I'm hoping someone can confirm/deny is we recently got both lower fuel pumps replaced under warrenty. During that process could there have been some fuel loss that would cause such low MPG? We use premium fuel as well
So, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
My wife was driving to work today and she called me when she was almost to work and said that when she was at the red-light and said when she started from the red-light the car was fine and she hit a certain rpm and the rpm's dropped and there was a strong smell of fuel. The car was still running and would idle fine but was running almost like it was flooded or had a miss like a coil pack or spark plug. There was no check engine so I am not sure I haven't got to look at the car yet.
I forgot to mention a few months back she had a check engine for the intake manifold runner flap called the dealer and set up an appointment to take it in. Took it up and by the time we got there the check engine was off and car was running fine no issues. They said no sense in bringing it in now just set another appointment if it comes back on which it never has and still isn't on but I am wondering if this problem is related to that? I know for sure that the car is still covered under the enhanced warranty for the injectors and intake manifold.
Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
Brought the Tig in for an oil change & while it was on the lift the tech noticed that the subject bushings are cracked/separating...Tig has about 43,400 mi...is this a common issue?
View 6 RepliesSome fool with a tow hook must have backed into my rear bumper this morning because the black plastic spoiler is pushed in pretty bad on the left corner (to the left of the exhaust). Before I have it replaced, I want to have a go at banging it back in place, but the dent is at the crease and I can't do it in situ. Is there a DIY about removing the spoiler (the lower black plastic half of the cover)? Or if not, one for dropping the whole bumper? There seem to be a bunch on the GTi and Passat but none for Tiggy.
View 4 RepliesHow to get the plastic exterior molding on the base of the doors off. I see 2 screws and thats it. Is there a trick to it? I need to replace the passenger side or epoxy one of the clips back on then remount it.
View 2 Replies I am a new owner of 2012 VW Tiguan basic model. I noticed that AWD was replaced by 4Motion was told it is AWD in VW. I drove two AWD (Outlook and Edge) before but they are quite different from I have now with this Tiguan. When driving less than 50 mph, it is perfect and normal. I fell no difference from I had with previous AWAD. However, when speed exceeds 60 mph, I can feel the "active driving" control kick in to intervene my powertrain. If you sit entirely on your seat, you can feel the car body try to swing a twist occasionally, it come and go and let me feel the car is running unstable. I actually have an advanced degree in ME and have been working on auto industries for years. But this is strange to me. I have some theory below:
1) something wrong with 4motion, it activates too fast or violently to cause tail twist (it is like you brake one rear wheel as tag and go style, so that your car still go but your tail swing a little bit)
2) unbalanced rear differential (due to dirty debris or grease?) such that one wheel has more resistant drag than the other? As 4Motion activated thru multi-disk clutch, the abrupt force cause two wheel rotate at slight different speed to swing the rear body? BTW, are these multi-disc controlled by on-off type or PWM? and at what speed, it activate? My previous AWD seem to be passive type with purely hydraulic to pass torque.
3) miss-calibration on the 4motion activation map? is there a way to smooth the clutch locking mechanism by sequential locking or increase the locking period? VW AD said about timely 4 wheel drive mechanical system. I would like to what timely means in this incidence?
4) Either front wheel aligned such as not enough toe-in or toe-out? I just have the car for one week. I plan to bring it back to check for remedy. Or 4 wheel miss aligned? but it is hard to explain why the car run normal under 50 mph?
My car is 2012 VW Tiguan with 40000 miles, turbo, basic trim and no navigation. Not even a compass? It does have a nice white car body to show if the door is open.
I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
Lately having the following issues with my Tig.
When starting up the engine on cold start (or after having the car sit for about 30 minutes) after about 10 - 20 seconds; pretty much right after first acceleration the car all of a sudden looses all power. RPM fall down even when accelerating. Accelerating more only let's the engine stall more.
5-10 seconds later the engine functions normal again.... What problem could that be ?
I am looking for info on how to replace the lower ball joint on my 2013 Sonata. I am not getting the common telltales of a failed ball joint that I would expect.
View 7 RepliesI just got my car back from a smashed bumper replacement and it looks like my electrical systems were disconnected and reconnected during repairs. My radio presets were default and the clock was also reset. There is a red blinking light on the lower left panel, below the steering wheel, left side. Next to the VSC/TRAC on/off button. The manual has no indication what this light is. It blinks even when the car is turned off. I have attached a picture also.....
View 3 RepliesI have a stock 2011 Tiguan S. Dealer can't figure out what the hell is going on. My dealer resets the ECU a month ago but the problem still keeps coming back.
View 13 RepliesWas out cleaning my windows today, and had the key turned to the accessory position so I could lower and raise the windows while I cleaned them. The passenger side rear window wouldn't lower (either from the switch on the passenger door itself, or the switch on the master panel on the driver's door.) The other 3 windows worked just fine. I immediately started planning on when I could get the car to the dealer
On a lark, I started the car to see if that made a difference and the passenger side rear window worked just fine. I then shut off the car, put the key back to the accessory position, and the window continued to work just fine.
Wife's 2011 Tiguan just stalled when she was driving it. both fuel pumps were replaced about 2 years ago when we bought it used because they faulty. After talking to my wife, I realized that she has been putting 89 in it. I'm just curious if using 89 for an extended period of time could be causing this issue? I had her pick up an octane booster because she just filled up with 89.
View 2 RepliesJust picked up a 2011 VW Tiguan 2.0t ... Got back into town and ran her thru a touchless carwash. Got it home tonight and the radiator fan ran for over 45 minutes wide open after I turned off the car before I disconnected the battery. The battery cable is off now until morning. Wet sensor?
View 12 RepliesTwice in the last two weeks, I've had a CEL appear. Both times, I was driving the car more aggressively, but not in the red or anything.
The first time it happened, I slowed down and as I was looking for a place to pull off, the light stopped blinking. The second time, the light blinked, then I slowed down, and then the light stopped blinking and stayed lit.
I checked the fault codes and they were "P0300" and "P0303" which are multiple cylinder misfires, and 3rd cylinder misfire (respectively). Looking those up isn't very useful, except it narrows down the problem to about a dozen things.
It's a 2011 SE triptronic, 4mo, 19k miles, APR stage 1 ECU, CAI, and no other performance mods. I'm running the 91 mode, and using 92 octane gas (which in Oregon is not that great). I've had no other issues with the car, and the engine has never stuttered or seemed off in any way.
I have the 2011 Tiguan SE FWD. It happened 3 times so far- when I turned on the car BEFORE I started the engine, there was a oil pressure warning on the MFI display, something like "Oil pressure low, check owners manual". As soon as I started the engine, the warning went away. I changed my oil all on schedule.
View 2 RepliesI bought my Tiguan used. Not sure what model I have. The S, SE or SLE. How to determine the model? I have heated leather seats. FWD. Fog lights. Automatic with tip tronic transmission. and its a 2011.
View 18 RepliesFor what it's worth I found a gent locally who has the Vag-Com setup on his laptop and we were able to get the windows and sunroof programmed to open and close when holding the lock/unlock buttons on the remote.
The article we followed is here: [URL] .....
He had to do this the long way with the long code as my '11 Tiguan wouldn't take the programming from the adaptation menu. A couple of other items to note is that the doors did have to be unlocked for the Vag-Com to be able to read the Central Electronics section of the ECU. When they were locked the software on his laptop alternated between saying too many connections and timing out. Also we had to check then uncheck the Comport Opening Only for Drivers Door Active to get all of the windows to open and close...