I have a 2011 Tiguan 125 TSI with 4 motion and recently have been getting quite a bit of front wheel spin especially on right turns. I can hear/feel the front wheel spin and also the TCS light is coming on. When the road is wet, it gets worse. Is this to be expected? The car is 2 years old and has only 24000kms on it so am a little disappointed with this. What may be wrong?
View 20 RepliesI just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
View 8 RepliesSometimes when driving I hear a light squeaking sound coming from the front wheel area. When i drive slow, it is a slow squeak, and when I go fast, the squeaking speeds up. I am thinking about spraying some wd-40 or silicone lubricant behind the wheel to lubricate the area to see if it solves my problem. I will be sure not to get any near the brake area but my question is, does spray wd-40 under the chassis or around the control arm area to stop those annoying squeaking sounds?
View 6 RepliesToday a creaking noise suddenly developed coming from the steering wheel when turning left at slow speeds. I only have 600 miles on the Tiguan, so was a little surprised to hear this so soon. I have found many others with similar problems on VWs through Google... the problem seems to range from coil springs to tie rod ends. I am hoping that this is just a freak occurrence, but am taking it in tomorrow.
It sounds like "creaking" as if you were shutting a door that needs WD40. That's the best way to explain it.
I recently started getting a light tapping noise coming from the front passenger side tire wheel area. It almost sound like a nail stuck in the tire, but lighter in sound and there is nothing stuck in the tire........
Here's the kicker: It only happens when I turn LEFT!!!! I checked and there is nothing obvious that sticks out to touch the tire when it turns...
I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
Have just picked up a 2011 Tiguan Highline, and there is a loose clunk in the front going over high frequency bumps in the road. I own a MKIV Jetta TDi and it feels similar to bad sway bar bushings on my MKIV, however it's not the bushings on the Tiguan.
I crawled underneath and tried to find looseness in the suspension with no luck. The sway bar end links seem tight (compared to the MKV Jetta I also have), and the strut mounts do not seem to be loose.
What I did find were some suspect control arm bushings. I'm new to suspension noises in this platform, our MKV has been flawless for the past 7 years. Could these worn bushings cause a loose clunk?
I also checked the subframe bolts and fuel lines that come up in common searches.
I have 2012 Tiguan, I just did a tire rotation as part of my 10k oil change. Afterward I started to hear a weird noise from front tires, especially when I was driving slow on smooth roads, I can hear tires make a noise every spin. The noise speed up with the tire speed. I do the oil change and tire rotation every 3k for my previous car, never had any problem.
View 2 RepliesI'm an owner of a 2013 DSG Golf R. Today on my way to work, my car did a wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. This is the first time it did this and I don't know what caused it. For those who didn't experience launching a DSG Golf R, here is a little insight. The car would usually launch in 2nd gear in a normal driving mild push on the throttle at speeds over 5 mph. From standstill, WOT, or a strong push on the throttle, it will launch in 1st.
I was on my way to work and as usual I turned off traction control. I slowed down for a speed bump and the car was doing around 5 mph in 2nd gear. I Pushed on the throttle and as always the car downshifted to 1st. However this time it didn't hook up as it used to do; instead, I felt the car spinning its tires, upshifted to 2nd at 4000 rpm and kept spinning. I released the throttle and it went back to normal.
I tried multiple pulls from standstill on my way back to work and the car was normal. What could be the cause of this incident? My car has a stage 1 tune..
Since Ive got my 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI, I hear a creaking noise coming from the front right suspension when riding over uneven pavement. The dealer said it is a common known problem from many Tiguans caused by the engine mount and that VW recommends the change of that part.
The new engine mount is slightly different from the one that is installed in my car. I am still waiting for the part to arrive and to be changed. Meanwhile, I spoke with another 2010 Tiguan owner, here in Brazil, whose car has already received the new part.
He said that the creaking noise has gone but now he feels more vibration coming from the engine and a kind of "diesel-engine-sound" when accelerating... Location of the engine mount: [URL] ....
The "old" engine mount bears the code:
5N0 199 262 G
5AY CN
M086
09/03/27
[URL] ....
The "new" engine mount bears the code:
5N0 199 262 E
5AY CN
M082
09/03/10
[URL] ....
I assume that the first number is the part number, the last is the manufacturing date and the others are either car model or manufacturer code or anything else. Note that the part number is the same, except by the letter suffix: "G" in the "old" one and "E" in the "new" part. Well, the suffix designation does not make sense for an evolutionary design...
My questions are:
1) Is it a new design or is it a roll back to an older part that does not cause that problem although it was probably modified due to another issue?
2) Is this part number specific for 2.0 TSI engine or is it the same for other engines (petrol/diesel)?
3) Which engine mount have you got on your cars?
Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
Today a new light came up in the dash and no its not the snowflake of doom, went to the manual and found out one of my front light is dead. Did some research about a better alternative to oem bulbs and came to the conclusion Philips X-treme vision is the way to go.Silverstar Ultra also seem to be a good option but going with philips after reading reviews . Found some online in the states and on ebay but would like to get them local or at least online in canada.
View 5 RepliesI just purchased my first VW, a 2012 Tiguan SE in Night Blue Metallic. The level of fit and finish, handling, and general feel are miles ahead of my old '04 Jeep Liberty.
Anyway, I've had the car for about 250 miles and have noticed a clunking/rattling noise coming from what sounds like the front passenger side suspension arm. The noise is fairly quiet but seems to consistently happen when turning left over uneven pavement.
I plan on taking it to the dealer this weekend and it is only a minor annoyance, but a shame since the rest of the vehicle is so quiet and refined.
Figured it's easier to get a response on vortex than searching thru the manual...
Low tire pressure light keeps coming on..all tires look good..is this because of weather? (its gotten a bit cooler in the last few days)
Is there a way to "clear" it?
I have a 2011 sonata SE w/ 30K miles, the starter failed on me.
The motor would spin but would not engage the gears b/c of the solenoid or the rod malfunctioned.
They towed my car to the dealer for free and it was replaced but I'm concerned because the towing guy told me he towed quite a few Hyundai's b/c of this problem.
I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
I gotta a roaring noise coming from my right front while turning. Planning on replacing just the wheel bearings tomorrow & not the whole hub assembly(2008 2wd). Is there a thread that lays out the steps and other parts I may need? I've seen alot different stories on the net on how to do it. Everthing from I can press new bearings to I have to do 4x4 hub conversion. Seems to be some confusion.
View 2 RepliesJust rebuild my civic 2000 b4ra trans. after I install the trans back and the car does not move under all gears. the manual says the fluid should be 6.2 Qt for overhaul and I added an external filter and an external cooler should take another 1 qt (?). I totally added 6 qt and the fluid level is ok. I put torque converter upside to drain and some fluids come out. but did not count how much.
Another weird thing is that I can not push the car down the drive way with slope with engine off and brake down and neutral gear. I jack up the front and give some gas under D4 and the wheel does not spin.
This is about a 2011 Sonata. I picked it up for my son.
The car has been running really well for the past few months, then out of the clear, when trying to start the car, the starter does a quick spin-free, then a short whine. The battery voltage is at 13.1 prior to attempting to start.
The car finally started under a jump from another car, but only after several turns of the key. And with each turn of the key, was the spin-free, then short whine, like described above. It's like the starter had a dead spot -or several dead spots- and I caught it just right, and it started.
I have the battery on an overnight charge. It sound like the starter to me. What do you think? And if it is the starter, how big a deal is it changing it out?
I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.