Tiguan :: 2011 - Engine Revving But No Traction?
Aug 21, 2011
Got my Tiguan SE at the end of July and had a transmission failure this weekend. Was turning left at a light and transmission failed. Engine was revving, but no traction. Finally got to a safe location and D, S and R gears were no responsive. Catalytic converter light came on as well as the Wrench icon at the top left of the information panel.
Waited two hours for VW roadside assistance and Tiguan is sitting at the dealership to be looked at tomorrow morning.
Needless to say, very distressed. Haven't even made my first payment yet and got stranded in the middle of a busy street.
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I have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
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I had My VW tiguan 2011, Died all of a sudden, where went to supermarket and went out and the car is not starting at all.
So next morning had it towed to the dealership for investigation. Now after a week of tests and investigation and replacement of Fuel HP pump @ the engine still not working.
They did pressure test, and surprise came "no compression on all 4 cylinders".
They will need to open the engine and do further investigation. Hope it's just a gasket leakage
The car is still less than 5 years and mileage is 174K km, just made oil top up and general checks few days before the incident. all services @ dealership if not on-time, before time.
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Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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I bought a new ABT Quad Tip Exhaust and replace the stock, it looks nice, but it has a ear drum killer drone between 2000 - 3000 rpm at all gears, and it peaks at around 2500 rpm.
Under 2000 rpm and above 3000 rpm, the exhaust is silent and i can actually hear the engine noise.
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So My traction control light went on the other morning as I was leaving the garage . I pushed the button on the console and nothing happened. I shut the Tig off and restarted it. Nothing , light was still on . Since this was 6am . I drove it to coffee and drove it home thinking it would reset . No luck .
Waited till my local dealer opened and went over and asked the service advisor if he knew anything about this ? He took it for a spin around the lot and said everything looked and felt ok and said it would reset itself sometime if I drove it a bit. He gave me back the Tig and sent me on my way ... This was a Saturday morning.
So , I drove it for a day or two and nothing and the light was still on and my 4motion felt like it was not working right. Weather was Icy and I did not want my better half driving the Tig with this problem .
I took the Tig to the dealer on Thursday morning and told them I was here the other day etc. etc. They called me later in the day and said a plug-in electrical connector under the car did not have a plug in the open part of the connector and to pick it up and bring it back on Friday when the parts come in.
Now they just called and said it was the rear end and VW NA tech line was walking them through things and they need my car over night to diagnose it further.. So after all this it goes from a stuck light reset to a plug-in connector to a rear end ....
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I currently have I45, 2 years old, that recently when driving at 100km approx 1.5to2K revs, loud noise like tyre has blown but was is happening the motor goes up to 3k revs, I have to pull over & stop the motor & restart otherwise if I keep driving the motor is revving at 3k revs unable to increase speed.
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I've been lowered on coils for the past 6 months. I have been running aftermarket wheels since day one. I switched wheels out and lowered a little in the front. Drove it yesterday morning at 10am,and all three lights came on. Stopped turned the car off and turned it back on and all the lights went away. Drove the car at 6pm and the lights came on. Stopped turned off and on and the lights are gone. Don't know whats going on . The cables that I believe are the abs/ speed sensors are fine no rubbing on the passenger side the wire circled looked like it was at a weird angle but idk. Drove it this morning and no lights. No clue whats going on.
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2011 SE V6 35k miles
My car has the "trac off" button on the left side of the steering wheel by your knees. When I push the button at a stop (park, neutral or drive) the "trac off" light does not illuminate on the dash. If I press and hold it for three seconds, the VSC off light also does not illuminate on the dash.
I read the manual (page 174) and I'm doing exactly what it says to turn it off but its not working. Whats going on here?
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In the past two weeks my traction control light came on and stayed on until i turned the car off. This happened randomly about four times. Setup an appointment through BlueLink. The dealership says that since the wheel speed sensors are wireless that something interfered with the signal to the computer. If it happens again they will replace the two passenger wheel speed sensors.
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I have a stock 2011 Tiguan S. Dealer can't figure out what the hell is going on. My dealer resets the ECU a month ago but the problem still keeps coming back.
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I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
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Wife's 2011 Tiguan just stalled when she was driving it. both fuel pumps were replaced about 2 years ago when we bought it used because they faulty. After talking to my wife, I realized that she has been putting 89 in it. I'm just curious if using 89 for an extended period of time could be causing this issue? I had her pick up an octane booster because she just filled up with 89.
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Just picked up a 2011 VW Tiguan 2.0t ... Got back into town and ran her thru a touchless carwash. Got it home tonight and the radiator fan ran for over 45 minutes wide open after I turned off the car before I disconnected the battery. The battery cable is off now until morning. Wet sensor?
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Twice in the last two weeks, I've had a CEL appear. Both times, I was driving the car more aggressively, but not in the red or anything.
The first time it happened, I slowed down and as I was looking for a place to pull off, the light stopped blinking. The second time, the light blinked, then I slowed down, and then the light stopped blinking and stayed lit.
I checked the fault codes and they were "P0300" and "P0303" which are multiple cylinder misfires, and 3rd cylinder misfire (respectively). Looking those up isn't very useful, except it narrows down the problem to about a dozen things.
It's a 2011 SE triptronic, 4mo, 19k miles, APR stage 1 ECU, CAI, and no other performance mods. I'm running the 91 mode, and using 92 octane gas (which in Oregon is not that great). I've had no other issues with the car, and the engine has never stuttered or seemed off in any way.
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I have the 2011 Tiguan SE FWD. It happened 3 times so far- when I turned on the car BEFORE I started the engine, there was a oil pressure warning on the MFI display, something like "Oil pressure low, check owners manual". As soon as I started the engine, the warning went away. I changed my oil all on schedule.
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I bought my Tiguan used. Not sure what model I have. The S, SE or SLE. How to determine the model? I have heated leather seats. FWD. Fog lights. Automatic with tip tronic transmission. and its a 2011.
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For what it's worth I found a gent locally who has the Vag-Com setup on his laptop and we were able to get the windows and sunroof programmed to open and close when holding the lock/unlock buttons on the remote.
The article we followed is here: [URL] .....
He had to do this the long way with the long code as my '11 Tiguan wouldn't take the programming from the adaptation menu. A couple of other items to note is that the doors did have to be unlocked for the Vag-Com to be able to read the Central Electronics section of the ECU. When they were locked the software on his laptop alternated between saying too many connections and timing out. Also we had to check then uncheck the Comport Opening Only for Drivers Door Active to get all of the windows to open and close...
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I am due for an inspection for a 2004 Camry (4 cyl.).
I had the engine light come on with a P2231 or P2238 code on my OBDII tool. Car was running fine, no weirdness whatsoever. But I went ahead and changed the front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1). As soon as I changed the code went away and it is not coming out anymore, nor are other codes.
However, the engine doesn't idle after 5 minutes running. I have to keep revving it up at the light to keep going. I shut it off and it turns on no problem. But then it doesn't idle. What a pain, I used the Bosch O2 sensor bought from AutoZone.
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I have 2011 Tiguan SE 4motion,that i purchased 5 months ago just got out of warranty
First problem i had with this car was the failed Ignition coil on one cylinder one month ago,suddenly while driving on the high way the car was shaking if goes above 40 MPH and check engine light came on, I continued to drive slowly till i made it home , and changed coil the next day and everything was fine for few weeks , i was planning on changing the rest of the coils and spark plugs.
Recently after leaving work i tried to start the car and it won't start it made weird loud crank noise but no start, check engine light came on , showed multiple cylinder mis fire code and random mis fire code
I changed remaining coils and spark plugs just to see if it will fix the problem ,it wouldn't start. Towed it to my regular mechanic after few failed attempt to start it he checks compression and was non on any cylinder, I researched online and came across common complaints of Timing chain Tensioner Failures and i thought it has to be same problem with my car.
Mechanic removed the timing chain cover to see if chain slipped or tensioner failed and they were fine and everything is in place with no timing fault, I checked the tensioner myself yesterday with him and still working fine. Now we deciding on opening the engine and check for damage Or just Replacing with used engine.
Having situation of engine failure WITHOUT having the timing chain fail due to tensioner failure? The misfires that occurred 1 month earlier could have caused enough damage that went catastrophic a month later? I had oil changed by mechanic with recommended Mobil one oil for VW 4 months ago...
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My 11 SEL is making this weird noise on a cold start. It sounds like almost like a bit of brake squealing when I first turn the steering wheel. I am not touching the brakes so I don't think it is that. Only lasts for 2-3 seconds and then it is gone. The car runs fine otherwise and there is nothing felt in the wheel.
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