Tiguan :: 2011 Engine / No Compression On All 4 Cylinders
Apr 26, 2015
I had My VW tiguan 2011, Died all of a sudden, where went to supermarket and went out and the car is not starting at all.
So next morning had it towed to the dealership for investigation. Now after a week of tests and investigation and replacement of Fuel HP pump @ the engine still not working.
They did pressure test, and surprise came "no compression on all 4 cylinders".
They will need to open the engine and do further investigation. Hope it's just a gasket leakage
The car is still less than 5 years and mileage is 174K km, just made oil top up and general checks few days before the incident. all services @ dealership if not on-time, before time.
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Wife's 2008 ES350 with 80k miles died in a parking lot. Wouldn't re-start with warning lights for Trac Off, Check Engine and VSC. Called tow truck from our local repair shop. Tow truck driver tied and started the car with no lights. Wife went ahead and had it towed.
Repair shop called and said that car started for tech but died w/o any warning lights. Shop started checking it out and found that it has no compression on all cylinders. In talking with service manager, we discounted the timing chain since the car will re-start, at least a few times. His gut feeling, something with the internal timing gears and such.
Repair shop has found a used engine locally and has it on hold while we decide what to do. The shop doesn't rebuild motor and just diving into it for exploratory surgery could be expensive with no assurance of positive results.
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I've been fighting some issues with the truck and decided to do a compression test to decide if I want to try to keep 'Old Yeller' alive or not. I'm all for working on it until I have to dig into the lower end of the motor. I rented a compression tool and the results were a little shocking. I did this test with a slightly warm motor, fuel pump relay pulled, all spark plugs pulled and throttle @ 100 %. Motor turned over 10 times for each cylinder. I even moved all the rubber o-rings on the tool up on the threads to make sure I was getting a good seal.
Cyl 1 - 40
Cyl 2 - 0
Cyl 3 - 0
Cyl 4 - 80
Cyl 5 - 0
Cyl 6 - 60
Needless to say I didn't even bother doing this wet. My only real question is can this be close to accurate. I drive the truck daily. 160k mi on it.
I'm fighting the dreadful P0171 and P0174 codes and after a couple cycles I will get misfire codes. Its low on power (hard to keep @ 70MPH with some wind) and gets 10MPG right now. However it starts and runs and stays consistent (even though it rumbles like it has a nice cam in it).
Is it time to put Old Yeller down ? Are these compression results even remotely accurate ?
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It's at 65k miles, was sitting around for half a year with a previous owner. Started with hpo issue that I seem to have resolved with new ipr. I'm also doing injector seals, nipple cups and dummy plugs in the meantime to seal off the system.
I had ran a compression test with a 300psi gauge on a couple cylinders as I was changing glow plugs and harness, and they showed above 350 psi. A couple others showed barely 150, so I figured I blew up the gauge. That's when I went and bought a harbor freight diesel gauge and while I was waiting for the otc adapter whip to come in I took apart the oil rail and was getting ready to do injector seals and nipple cups.
I have now tested all the cylinders with the proper gauge but only to get the same dreadful result low compression ranging from 150-200 and rising 50 only with a bit of oil added to the cylinder.
If I don't have compression I'm obviously not going to get it to start although everything else showed up good on the torque gauges before it was apart. Why I don't have compression on any cylinders? I'm getting a new compression gauge today just in case, but seems unlikely it's the gauge.
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My mechanic just told me I have one of my six cylinders that has a compression rate of only 25. I am weeping as I continue to pay my car loan. Looking for info, if this can be repaired vs. putting in a replacement engine?
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2000 f450, truck has been running great and then all of a sudden starts running really rough. I check the oil and its dry! it was 9 quarts low! i checked the oil 2 weeks prior as i often do. i change the oil every 4500 miles and now this. i had driver side injectors done about 5 months ago. I take it to my mechanic and he said he thinks it has low compression on 2 cylinders but didn't do a compression check( not sure how he knows). He told me to run it until it pukes , keep putting oil in it with lucas oil additive. Then i will have to have the engine rebuilt. The truck only has 175000 miles! i thought these things were supposed to run forever! Does this seem right to you guys? I bought the truck a year and a half ago and have always kept up with it. has dp tuner but everything else is stock. Smoke comes out of the oil fill tube slowly but doesn't send puffs like a locomotive. mechanic said the turbo is fine.
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
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While I had my glow plugs out to crank the motor for the HPOP work I have done I checked the compression on all the cylinders. 6 of the cylinders were 275-280, got 250 and 110 on the others. I put oil in both the low cylinders and the 250 went to 260 and 110 went to 150. I pressurized the low cylinder and with the valves closed it was leaking out the exhaust manifold also had a small amount of coolant come out the water pump. Removed the cylinder head and didn't see anything unusual with the cylinder that was reading low in fact the if was the best looking cylinder of the four with nice looking crosshatch on the cylinder wall.
The other three cylinders has some slight brown haze on them which I assume is rust. This motor probably hasn't run in 18 months and the truck was a non-runner when I purchased as a theft recovery, no history on the truck. Taking the one head to a shop for them to check it out. What's the opinions out there with the low compression? Be ok once it runs and rings get coated with oil? The motor is out of the truck so maybe I should tear it down completely hone and put new rings in it.
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Got my Tiguan SE at the end of July and had a transmission failure this weekend. Was turning left at a light and transmission failed. Engine was revving, but no traction. Finally got to a safe location and D, S and R gears were no responsive. Catalytic converter light came on as well as the Wrench icon at the top left of the information panel.
Waited two hours for VW roadside assistance and Tiguan is sitting at the dealership to be looked at tomorrow morning.
Needless to say, very distressed. Haven't even made my first payment yet and got stranded in the middle of a busy street.
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Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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I bought a new ABT Quad Tip Exhaust and replace the stock, it looks nice, but it has a ear drum killer drone between 2000 - 3000 rpm at all gears, and it peaks at around 2500 rpm.
Under 2000 rpm and above 3000 rpm, the exhaust is silent and i can actually hear the engine noise.
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I have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
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With vehicle engines in the past, I have used a compression check as a fundamental part of routinely checking the wear on an ICE. My usual method was disconnecting the ignition, removing spark plugs, inserting the compression gauge line in a spark plug hole, and turning over the engine with the starter. How exactly do I do that sequence with a Gen 3 Prius?
If that method is not feasible, would a "leak down" method of checking compression such as we did on old aircraft engines possibly work with the Prius ICE? To do that I would have to be able to carefully position the crankshaft so that the intake and exhaust valves were fully closed on each cylinder in turn. What is the safe method to do that with the Prius ICE?
Exactly what the compression reading should be? I am assuming that if the engine is spun at 1000 rpm by MG1, the correct reading would be 13 to 1 or 13.5 to 1. Or?
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Picked up a 2001 Passat today, it doesn't run. At first I thought it was a timing belt and I was prepared to fix it, but it's NOT the timing belt.. The belt looks good. The car turns over with no interference, I took the valve cover off and everything looks fine. But, the engine has ZERO compression.. it turns over with ease, and a compression tester doesn't even register. The car has the following codes:
16486 P0102 163
Mass Air Flow Circuit -G70: Low Input [Sporadic]
16395 P0011 035
A Camshaft Position (Bank 1): Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
16712 P0328 163
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 -G61: High [Sporadic]
16717 P0333 035
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Bank 2 -G66: High
17733 P1325 035
Cylinder 1-Knock Control: limit attained
17735 P1327 035
Cylinder 3-Knock Control: limit attained
17734 P1326 035
Cylinder 2-Knock Control: limit attained
16725 P0341 035
Camshaft Position Sensor (A) Circuit Bank 1: Range/Performance
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SO this truck came into the shop yesterday with a really bad misfire. pulled the codes and got a misfire codes for cylinders 1-6 and also p1450 (unable to bleed fuel tank vacuum) and p068a (pcm/ecm power relay de-energized too early) i found a TSB related to the issue, TSB 10-25-7 i did as the tsb told me to do and pulled valve covers to check out the rocker shaft rollers and inspect for any signs of surface deformation or fatigue. they were fine on both sides.: ive got spark in all cylinders. fuel pressure was right around 55-60 the gauge was fluctuating pretty good. checked for bad fuel or water in fuel ect. fuel seems to be good. pulled O2s incase of plugged cats still ran like crap.
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
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Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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Does this sound like a choke issue? The car starts up fine and runs like a top. It even drives normally for about a mile, but then as the engine warms up it starts losing compression when I press the gas pedal. The engine runs fine when my foot isn't on the gas, but stutters and won't go anywhere when I'm pressing the gas.
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Our beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
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