Tiguan :: 2011 4 Motion - Sluggish Especially When Starting From A Full Stop
Jun 18, 2015
i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
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When starting from a full stop our truck intermittently will act like there are air bubbles in the fuel line or something and will nearly stall out several times before it gets going. We don't have a problem while driving. The "hiccups" eventually got better after we began buying a different kind of fuel, but there is still a problem. We have had the truck looked at several times but no one can find anything wrong with it because the truck seems to always be on its best behavior when we take it somewhere. Except for this, the Dodge has been a great truck and pulled our 32' "house" all over the USA and Canada since we bought it brand new in 2003. We are very good about doing all the regular maintenance so the obvious answers can probably be ruled out. It has a Cummins diesel engine and we regularly add an additive to the fuel.
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Grinding feeling, and noise from rear of 02 explorer xlt. only noticed when starting out from a full stop and turning. It feels like something is grabbing like the rear brakes. I purchased this suv of a local dealer lot, because it was so clean and on a short test run seamed fine.
The day after I picked it up I took it for a shakedown cruise to see if I noticed any problems. After going up a few forward grades I noticed a disturbing rattling noise coming from mid under carriage, and got very worried. I immediately took it to a local well revered mechanic. They eventually had it for 4 days in order to diagnose it. After the dealer had done the inspection on the car and passed it, that all rotors and pads needed to be replaced, left front wheel was locked up, inspection sticker month was never punched, both front tires were bad and either the flex plate or tork converter or both needed to be replaced. I took it back to the dealer with the report and he agreed to fix it with me paying for parts. He did and the rattle was gone !
Yet now I have noticed the problem mentioned at the beginning of this piece, plus the rear wiper does not work. I think I got taken for a ride, which may become a longer ride than I thought. All I want is a reliable car. what could that rear noise be ???
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My 2011 Lincoln MKT hesitates after a full stop...randomly. After I apply the gas she will hesitate, as if she can't find the right gear, RPM's go out of sight then there's a sudden and hard jerk and away we go! The weather is not a factor...happens anytime anywhere. The cruise control will shut off randomly as well. At times the warning buzzer and light flash on the windscreen that we are about to crash...and there are no vehicles in the way.
It has been to the dealership 4 times in the past 3 months for this and they can't find anything wrong... (Ford does not have a bulletin on this problem either. We've had the car since Feb. 2011 - it has 20,000 miles on it now. Regular maintenance is done as scheduled.)
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Just bought my new ride last week and already noticed strange clunk sound when braking. It doesn't happen all the time but seems to happen when I make full stop, like at a stop sign or stop before turning.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and had the front pads and rotors changed a few months ago. Started to hear this squeaking noise when starting up from a stop (between ~5-15 mph). Check out the audio/video here...this is me basically holding my cellphone out of the driver side window: [URL] ....
It occurs intermittently and sometimes doesn't occur at all. The more the car is warmed up, the more often it seems to occur. Techs at Hyundai couldn't figure it out. They made me replace the rotors and pads with OEM parts and surprise, surprise, the same exact noise is occurring. I don't see how it can be wheel bearings...there is no rumbling noise or roughness at all. But the squeaking is killing me.
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I bought this car in July 2013. In August I started noticing that randomly it would experience extended cranks to get started. It usually happens when the car has been off for a few hours. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not.
I have taken the car to the dealership 5 times already. The first 4 times they said they found faults in the computer and that fuel pressure was dropping when the car was off and during the 4 visits, they changed out the fuel pumps on both high (did this twice) and low side. But the problem still exists. The 5th time they kept the car for a few days and drove and started at various times and they say everything checks out fine and it is behaving as normal.
Other than this, the car is fine. Lately, I notice that this happens about 1 -2 times a day depending on when the car is started. Typically I am experiencing this if the car is started after 3 - 6 hrs or more. Other times it starts fine.
When it starts fine, when I turn the key it sounds like cha-cha (or da-da) and starts. Sometimes is does cha-cha-cha-cha, and that seems normal because my other car (Sonata) takes no more than that. Other times it is either marginally worse like cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha.
or bad like cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha-cha (eight cha-s). My 2011 Tiguan never had this. Dealership is telling me eight cha-s is 4 cranks and that is normal. Although it starts up about 2 seconds when it does eight cha-s, it just sounds too long and abnormal. I have never had a car start like this.
Again, this is intermittent and seems like I experience it once or twice a day depending on how many times I started after the car is sitting off for a few hrs.
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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When my Tig is cold, it seems to be very jerky or sluggish at 1500-1800rpm. There is definitely something happening at that range of RPM , almost seems like it's slipping and is jerky.
I know these 2.0's are notorious for the timing tensioner going (I have an 09) - could this be somehow related? I know that at a start I always get the famous rattle for a few seconds until oil pressure builds.
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Does the Prius' TPMS employ a sleep mode to conserve battery? I.e., stop transmitting when the wheels are not in motion.
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Just curious if we can change selections for driving mode when a car is in motion or it has to stop to switch between them?
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I know that this issue is occurring, hence the recall, and it is actually happening to me. I have gone off the road three times now due to my engine simply dying while the car is in motion. I drive a 2013 Sonata with 32k miles on it that I bought months ago, and the car has been to the dealer 4 times for the same issue, yet they are telling me NOTHING is wrong with the car. The service manager and general manager of the dealership no longer want to deal with me,they said if the computer doesn't show the problem, then there is no problem. The car's radio won't turn on, the bluetooth feature doesn't work, it has to be jump started 4-5 times a week and half the time it dies while idling after being started. The tire pressure sensor light just came on even though that was tested, and when the engine dies, no check engine light or ECM lights come on. BUT, NOTHING is wrong with the car!!
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My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
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Yesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
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Automatic transmissions! I have a 90 F250 4x 7.5 and E4OD. I have been chasing electrical gremlins, and I'm not sure if these problems are related or not. Symptoms: When starting off in drive, it feels very sluggish, as if it is starting in second gear. Manually putting in first works. When left in drive it will drop all the way into fourth at 20-25 mph. If left in drive, when you turn a corner and step into the throttle the trans will rapidly shift up and down causing a surging effect. Manually moving the shift down into second stops this. I have been considering swapping the PCM from an 89 7.5 E4OD parts truck I have, to see if that cures any of the problems.
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I just took delivery of a 2015 pewter gray base azera. It is my second one as I purchased a leftover 2013 last year. The sonatas had to go just not comfortable enough for me. Between 1000-1500 rpm whether in motion or in park I get a sound like an owl hooting. my 2013 does not do it.i can make it do it any time I want. This is really annoying in traffic it actually can be heard with the radio on. the dealer said it is normal and let me drive another new one on a test drive and it does it too. Almost sounds like it could be a harmonic noise in the intake or exhaust. Going to see if I can pinpoint it this weekend. I am very disappointed as my 2013 has 36k on it and other than the rattle at start up no issues.
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We are going through probably the overall coldest winter I have ever been through. I was wondering is it not out of the question for the cold to impact the power steering on a car. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and have noticed when starting out in the morning my steering is a bit more sluggish/stiffer and then has the day wears on it is back to it's normal self. It has depending on the temps out said taken a few minutes up to a half hour or so. I have never had this issue before, but again have never had to deal with so many sub zero nights and days in winter....
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I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
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