Tiguan :: 2010 - Hesitate A Little Bit And Jump Slightly When Idle
Jan 12, 2015
My check engine light came on around 2 weeks ago, had the code checked, it read P0302. Noticed it started to hesitate a little bit and would jump slightly when idle. About a week after that I had a friend, (who used to be a mechanic at Lexus and for the Army) switch the coil on cylinder 2 to 3, then the code moved to the 3 cylinders. The next day the CEL started flashing this time, checked the code again and it was back to P0302, switched all the sparks plugs.
CEL was cleared and hasn't come back but I know something is wrong..but the car still loses powers when driving and jerks/misfires when the car is first started up but after it runs for about 5 mins or so, it doesn't do it anymore while sitting idle. I have a rental car right now and will take it soon, just really swamped with work. I'm just fearing the worst until I get time to get it into a mechanic.. and just hoping to hear something less dreadful than a repair... that's why I did the minor things first, my friend thinks it may be a more serious issue. The report from AutoZone (the second time I got the code scanned) said this. But this is not 100% accurate correct?
Vacuum Leak on Engine, Probable Cause, Ignition system fault, Fuel Injector Fault, Engine Mechanical condition
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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
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My 2014 Tiguan SEL has been giving me issues with the start button - hesitates at start, tries to start but doesn't and won't start at all. Took to dealership in March/April and they had it for 2 days. "Couldn't duplicate" so nothing was done.
I've read about this same issue in other VW forums and how cleaning the contact points on the start button has eliminated this problem. Unfortunately, the start button on the other VWs is on the steering column. How to remove the start button? Do I need to remove the entire center console? I've already tried by taking off the boot/trim and can't get to the button.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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My mechanic and friend noticed my axle was starting to fail about a few weeks ago and Ive just been waiting to get it taken care of when I have time. Last night my battery died and I got a jump start. After the jump I get in and drive down the street a little ways and notice the ESP light came on. She was also running a little rough at idle and I started getting nervous. So instead of getting my Micky Dees I turned around and went home. Of coarse this happens at 3am the night before I have to open up at work at 11.. This mourning I get in the car and warm her up to see how shes acting. I decided to still drive her because I had no other option. The MIL light popped on now too and I think its related to my axle failing. So im wondering I guess how much longer I have til this thing completely goes and what would happen if it went while I was driving? Ive never had to replace an axle before or and an issue with one so this is a subject I know very little about. Also is it worth it to get RAXLES for stock?
So after my battery died like I said I got a jump start from my buddy and after I jumped it the car seems to rev at idle now. Freaked me out! Would all the sudden start revving to 2k rpm and then stop. When I drove it to work almost every time I stopped it would rev a little bit but when I gas it it would stop. After doing research there are a few conclusions I have reached. First I read it could be a throttle body sticking? Then I read the jump start could have fried my ecu or it could be a simple as a loose wire to the motor from a bypass valve?
Im not sure if the jump start did anything bad. Its possible its a coincidence still but my car was fine before the jump. Also on a side note my ecu was already flashed when I purchased the car. The flash is from EIP I believe because there is a eip sticker on the battery case. Personally I think the MIL light is related to the axle but the weird idling is what scares me.
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I have had my 2010 Prius 2010 for a year now. I have been taking my Prius to a full service car wash with the conveyor belt. They have always seemed ver Prius savvy. But the last couple of times, after getting in the car and driving away, the car seemed to hesitate upon initial acceleration. Then the problem goes away.
The last time I took it to this car wash, I sat in the car, because I only needed the express exterior wash. About a third of the way through, the instrument panel said "Low Traction Battery... put into Park" I did not obey the warning because I was afraid of putting it in Park while the conveyor belt system was pushing my Prius along. So I ignored it. By the end of the car wash, the engine had shut down. I had to start it up and drive out, and I got that same momentary, initial hesitation as I accelerated, like before. The hesitation went away after that.
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OK, I'm coming to the end of my first month of ownership. Have put on about 1,000 miles (need to drive this thing more - it's so much fun!)
Anyway, once the car is warmed up - I come to a traffic light and sit at idle. Idle starts off evenly at about 700 RPM. After a minute or so, it seems to jump up to about 1,000 RPM. Can feel it "pull" a little. After a bit of time at 1,000 RPM, it seems to drop back to 700 - but not all the time.
Mentioned it to the dealer and got a response like, "they have these things cammed". I don't think it's a cam issue. Just wondering if this is normal behavior or if there is an adjustment or part needed.
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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The other day I noticed the car slipped into reverse fairly hard, then when I placed it into drive it also slipped in fairly hard. Once I was out on the road it hesitated and then slipped into gear 3rd then 4th, and when I slowed down it seem to hesitate when gearing down. Two days passed and no problems, then today started up again, and now the "check engine" light came on...! Shifted ok on the way home this evening but check engine light still on. Only 34K, 2012 bought in June 2011. Has been an absolutely brilliant ride up until this week. I understand the tranny is sealed ? Any tips besides taking it to a dealer ? Problem is I live quite a ways from one, and finding the time.
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I have a 2010 which lately has been having difficulty starting on chilly days. That's saying something considering i live in Memphis, where the cold days are relatively mild. Sometimes it will hesitate on turning over, start and then my gauges flutter and the car shakes a little. Other times it makes a high pitched cranking noise. I haven't taken it anywhere yet because it seems to exclusively happen in the morning after the car has been sitting for 10 hours.
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I did a tune up on my 20th last week, plugs and coil packs and oil change. now i have a strange idle that it wasn't doing before. i checked all the plugs over again and they are gapped fine and i have no CE light on. Every now and then my RPM meter will jump down and then right back up, same with the boost meter at the same time. i had it looked at at the garage i go to and they said they cant seem to find anything wrong. What might be causing the rough idle? keep in mind this only started happening RIGHT after the tune up.
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So I just bought a 2002 Elantra with 72k on the clock (legitimate) and I'm having issues where the car will start fine in the morning and idle normally, however, say I come back to go somewhere else about two hours later, when I start it the car will rev up to 3k and stay there for about 3 seconds and jump down to normal idle speed. What's the issue?
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Just a quick question but is it normal for the ICP voltage (ICV) to jump around a lot at idle or while cruising or accelerating? Started watching this pid and not sure what's normal and what's not.
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When idle, and especially when cold, my R engine tends to do some popping, I can see the RPM drop slightly when this happens and can also hear and feel it in the car and from the engine and exhaust. This only happens when idle, I have no other issues, no drop in performance and no CEL.
It actually has done this for a while now but barely noticeable. Now since 2 weeks it has gone worse to the level of being annoying. What this may be ? Injectors maybe ?
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When I'm driving and i let off the gas and come to a stop, my car dips close to 200rpm below idle and shudders slightly and goes back to idle.
My car just doesn't seem to have the amount of power that it should. My roommate has a 1.8t jetta with just a few more mods than I do and his car seems so much faster. I put an APR chip in my car and i still have a lag in the throttle..my car jerks..and it just doesn't seem that my car has the right amount of power.
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My '03 W8 with 22,000 miles on it has had a slightly bumpy idle since I got it, the dealer has told me that this is not a big deal. This afternoon, however, I noticed that the idle has suddenly become much rougher, though it has not thrown a CEL. The idle is noticably rough at speeds below 10 mph and while it is fully stopped (in Drive, Neutral, and Park). I just picked my car up from the dealer this afternoon after it had a window control module replaced, and now it looks like I am going to have to go back to the dealer. I know that they are going to give me the run around and try and convince me that nothing is wrong with my car, but the idle is rough enough to shake the whole car and it sounds as if there is a new (or louder) noise coming from under the hood (other than the valvetrain noise). I suspect that this might be the clogged oil screen issue, but I really don't know what to do.
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Is it possible to slightly raise the Idle speed of our R32s?
And if so, how is it done?
Is there a procedure with Vagcom?
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So my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with about 100,000 miles. Recently, it started doing funny things when I tried to start it. It would take a few tries, sometimes, or it might start immediately- very unpredictable. Someone suggested I try starting it in neutral, so I did that. It seemed to work for awhile, so the idea was maybe it was a switch in the car that can go funny and make it so the car won't start in park. Switch replaced, so everything's fine, right? No, still not starting on the first try. I took it to a car parts store to get the battery tested. The guy said, the battery is shot and is definitely the problem (he also said the starter was okay and he thinks alternator is also okay).
So I bought a brand new battery and had it put in... STILL NOT STARTING! Sometimes it will start in neutral, sometimes in park. It does not seem dependent on the temperature, the amount of time it's been since it was last started, or anything else that I can figure. However, if it is hooked up to a jump start, it will start immediately with no problem, in park. New switch, new battery. Is it likely the alternator? I'm trying to figure out how big of a hit this might be to my checking account. Other than this problem, the car runs perfectly. I'm confused that people keep diagnosing a problem and it still doesn't work. And that I might have replaced parts that weren't broken to begin with.
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I haven't been able to successfully jump my 2010 Prius. It sat for about a month and the 12v battery is dead. I've connected everything up as described in the manual. I've kept the second car at about 2K RPM for about 5 minutes to charge the Prius. I am able to get the Prius to start up just fine, but as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables, it dies right away. I've tried getting the Prius engine to come on for several minutes, but as i understand it, there's no alternator, so that's probably not charge the 12V battery.
I've gone through this cycle about three times now with the same results. Every posting I've seen doesn't indicate anything special needed after you disconnect the cables. Is there something I'm missing?
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After years of enjoying my Prius, driving it all around California and getting about 70k miles on it, it finally went haywire today when the car didn't start. Let me explain.
When I tried turning on the car, it didn't do anything and felt resistance from the brakes. I noticed that the interior lights were dimmer than usual, so I tried pressing the Power over and over again. Unfortunately, it didn't start.
Panicked, I frantically tried to get my manual out of my trunk, only to have the lights actually fully turn on. Puzzled, I turned on the car and, sure enough, it started. But I'm an idiot and turned it off and got stuck with the same problem again.
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