Tiguan :: 2010 WE - Control Arm Lower Bushings
Jan 22, 2016
Brought the Tig in for an oil change & while it was on the lift the tech noticed that the subject bushings are cracked/separating...Tig has about 43,400 mi...is this a common issue?
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Car has a little over 100K. How to replace the bushings on the suspension arms. Took my car in for the brake switch recall and was told my bushings were cracked. Not sure which ones, but I assume all of them. Looked online for a DIY, but not for the RX330. From some of the DIY's I've seen so far, it looks like a bit$! to replace those rubber bushings.
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Front lower control arm bushings are completely separated. Looking to upgrade in some way to poly bushings or some other sort of performance setup.
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My Tig has been doing a sharp clunk (single) for awhile when going a bit too fast over speed bumps. I just ignored it, as I'm not flying over bumps regularly and I had just replaced the OEM struts all around. Now when accelerating over 60 kph the car has a side to side shimmy. Also when compressing or unloading the front end suddenly, like with dips on the road, makes it clunk. Checking the various suspension components?
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Just got my car back from the shop and it squeaks pretty loudly at low speeds. It seems pretty clearly to be coming from underneath the front seats and it sounds like rubber rubbing against steel so I am guessing its the control arm bushings.
Yesterday I took it to the shop to have the passenger side control arm installed and to have the tie rods done and get an alignment.
This past weekend I installed new drivers side control arm/ball joint, front struts (also installed a new rear hub & wheel bearing). I did not hear any squeaking after I did that.
Is this just something that needs to be broken in?
It wasn't til I got it back from the shop that it started to squeak. I only notice it from 0-20 mph then it seems to go away. Everything else seems fine, suspension, steering and alignment are all great and there's no clunking etc.
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can you replace the upper control arm bushings (pass side) with the arm still in the truck?
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My rear control arm bushings are cracking. I was wondering if this is a serious problem and what negative effects it will have if I leave them alone.
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I bought a used 2007 Lexus RX350, FWD, in December 2012 and had it looked over before I signed the papers by a non-biased mechanic. He said the control arm bushings would need to be replaced in the future.
When I took the car in last month to my mechanic (a private mechanic, not a Lexus dealership), he said the control arm bushings on the right side are worn a lot more than the left side. He said on this Lexus, it would require removing the engine to replace the parts (?) and that because it was such a labor intensive job, and the left will eventually wear, that he advises I get both the left and right replaced at the same time.
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MILEAGE: 65,000
Last time I was in, the shop replaced my sway bar links, which had already been diagnosed and the repair scheduled. Then, after replacing the sway bar links, the mechanic told me that the control arm bushings were cracked. They already put new struts on the front, as well. So I asked him what else was going to go wrong with my suspension. He said nothing else should need work. He also said that the car was safe to drive for a couple months but I definitely needed to get it fixed.
QUESTIONS:
Is it normal for a car with 65,000 miles to have cracked bushings? I realize that the car is 11 years old; I just wondered how much a car's mileage plays into cracking the bushings and, if so, after how many miles should one expect before cracking occurs.
Does it sound like they're trying to soak me? Why tell me one thing at a time? Perhaps more revenue from the labor side of things?
Assuming the bushings truly need to be replaced, does the community here think there is anything else that should be checked and taken care of at the same time? It is both costly and annoying to have to take the car back numerous times.
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We've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
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I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
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Picked up another gti vr6 5 speed for my girlfriend. It needed the control arm bushings replaced. Finished up and went to drive the car. Now when in gear and let of the clutch. Makes a terrible sound and won't move. But speedo goes up .
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I have a 2008 Honda Pilot less than 80,000 miles on it. was just told by the dealer the control arm bushings need to be replaced. They put it on the lift for me and I saw what looks to be dry rot on the bushings. I am the original owner and it has not been abused .. all required service completed.
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So I just filled my wife's 11 Tig up and it averaged 17mpg! She doesn't drive it hard or heavy on the gas so this kinda sucks.
My only idea that I'm hoping someone can confirm/deny is we recently got both lower fuel pumps replaced under warrenty. During that process could there have been some fuel loss that would cause such low MPG? We use premium fuel as well
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Have to replace those on 3rd gen vehicle?
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Some fool with a tow hook must have backed into my rear bumper this morning because the black plastic spoiler is pushed in pretty bad on the left corner (to the left of the exhaust). Before I have it replaced, I want to have a go at banging it back in place, but the dent is at the crease and I can't do it in situ. Is there a DIY about removing the spoiler (the lower black plastic half of the cover)? Or if not, one for dropping the whole bumper? There seem to be a bunch on the GTi and Passat but none for Tiggy.
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How to get the plastic exterior molding on the base of the doors off. I see 2 screws and thats it. Is there a trick to it? I need to replace the passenger side or epoxy one of the clips back on then remount it.
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my problem is this: my lower control arm bushing, front but (rear bushing) unfastens alright but i cannot get the bolt out no matter what i do. it just keeps spinning and will not come out the control arm has snapped itself so needs to be replaced. now is there a secret way (lol) to get this out iam about to become on nerve pills because of this lol. it just keeps turning on me and will not come out the other nut/bolt came out without any problems.
and from the manufactures book the actual gm book 375.00 paid for this darn book
anyway it says that these bolts have got to be placed back in from the inside (both of them) meaning they aren't supposed to be placed back one one way the the other way. a guy has told me its okay to be doing it the way where i place it back in to wiggle it back and forth to get it back in but the gm manual says to put both bolts back in the exact same way from inside the control arm out and the both nuts to be facing outside. and even when i took them both off the one was bolt end from the outside in and the other from the inside out? i have a 1997 3.1 front wheel drive. and i have only 1 lower control arm on each side
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On a level-of-difficulty-scale from 1 to 10. 10 being the most difficult. How difficult is it to change the upper control arm and the lower ball joint?
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I have been told by a couple of mechanics that the bushings on the lower control arms on my 95 Camry are worn. They recommend replacement of the lower control arms and ball joints.Is this a repair I can do myself? I have reasonable mechanical competency. I figure that I will have to rent a tool at the auto parts store for the ball joint, remove a few nuts and bolts, and bring the car in for an alignment once I get the parts installed.Now my wife is adamantly against me doing this myself. She thinks that I am going to mess this up, the parts will fail at high speeds, and I will die in a fiery crash. She apparently has more confidence in the repair shop grease monkey than her engineer husband. So is she right? Is this a repair which is best left to the shop?
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I just might be out of luck but wanted to check here first. My driver side lower control arm is dangerously rusted. I bought a replacement and was able to get everything undone except 1 of the 2 bolts that go into the sub-frame. The one towards the rear of the vehicle came out ok. The one towards the front of the vehicle just spins. I have read that it is probably a welded nut to the frame that has broken free and is just spinning inside the frame.
I have seen pictures and another thread on here (but for a santa-fe) where the owner had just drilled a 1 3/4" hole through the bottom of the subframe to grab that nut. Well mine is in a location that a 1 3/4" hole would almost be more than the width of the frame itself. So I thought maybe just a "slit" in the frame so I can get a open end wrench up there to grab the nut. I drilled just a test drill to see where I would land, sure that I would be past the end of the bolt. But I wasn't. I can see the threads of the bolt.
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