Tiguan :: 2010 - Slow Response - Lag In Acceleration
Jul 13, 2013
I have a 4motion Automatic Tiguan 2011. It always had a tiny acceleration lag which I believe is quite normal. But lately, our Tiguan developed a that-doesn't-sound-right symptom. I feel the acceleration gap is much longer now, the engine makes quite a bit of noise but the car hesitates to go, and it gets a bit worse on uphills. It had a transfer box leak that was fixed 3-4 months ago.
It sounds like a transmission problem to me. Is there something wrong with the power train?
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The throttle response from a standstill seems VERY slow. When I push down the accelerator, it seems to go down a good 3-4 inches before I meet any significant resistance, and even then, I can do a good 2 second count before the engine seems to engage. If I am stopped at a light, and I slightly blip the accelerator, then push the pedal down, it does better. But if I am stopped and floor the gas pedal, nothing happens....at ALL...for at least 2 seconds. It is slightly better when in manual, but the issue is enough for even my wife to comment that it takes off very slowly when you first give it gas.
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As of the last few weeks/month or so, my 2010 Tiguan has been feeling like it wobbles under speeds of 30mph. When I first accelerate it feels like it wobbles, once I hit 30mph the wobbling completely stops. Also, when I'm decelerating (even without pressing the brake) it wobbles as it slowly comes to a stop. I'm not sure what it could be and I have seen all types of different reasons. What it could be? I haven't crashed into anything to bend the rim or anything like that.
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I have a 2010 Prius Pkg 5 with around 71xxx miles. I usually drive it like a regular car on eco mode and get around 38mpg average but recently I've changed my style of driving where I accelerate to the desired speed limit, let go of the gas, then reapply and keep the mpg meter in between the middle eco line and before the pwr band. I've been able to average 44mpg this way, which is great!
However, what I've begin to notice now is that say if I'm traveling at say around 45mph and let go of the gas and re-apply, the engine starts to shudder as if it's not getting enough gas. Why this is happening? I also need new tires (215/45/17) but that doesn't have anything to do with this. I've owned this car since 30xxx miles and haven't done anything other than put gas and change the oil at the dealerships. Could putting 87 octane gas with up to10% ethanol have any effect on this?
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I bought a 6,000 mile RX back in december and notice the vibration at slow acceleration.
It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the vehicle. It stops when it gets up to speed. I looked for anything lose and don't notice anything underneath.
I'm not too impressed with my local dealer so far to have them look at it. It sounds as if something is loose inside the muffler. It does not vibrate upon rapid acceleration.
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My wife got a 2014 Tiguan (R-Line) yesterday. Nice car but throttle response is slow.
Wondered to know about APR Stage 1 tune on a Tiguan.
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From time to time, the first time the car is started in a day, the transmission (4T60E, 1993) may take several ............ seconds before first engagement, either in forward or reverse. Fluid level OK, color OK, filter changed 2/3 years ago. This began just a few months ago. After that, everything will work flawlessly for all the day , no problem at all, all shifts OK, all subsequent starts OK.
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I own a 2004 Passat- 1.8. I want to make my steering and throttle more responsive. The throttle is very slow responding, and the steering is very sloppy. I know this is supposed to be VW's Luxury car, but this would greatly enhance the performance and driveability of this car. How do I do this?
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I finally finished installing my VF stage 2 supercharger. I fired it up and the idle is low (around 500 rpms) and a very rough idle. Throttle response is very slow, when it finally revs the car stalls. I can also hear a leak somewhere near the throttle body. I have an SAI block off plate. 630cc injectors and UM tune. No CEL
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I am a dedicated Ford truck owner. Both vehicles I have had are both F150's. My first one was a 5.4L v8 03 and my current is a 5.4L v8 06 4x4, seen below.
When I bought the truck it was straight piped. I went ahead and did a GOTTS mod on it. The truck also has the factory tow package. I replaced the spark plugs and engine oil (Amsoil High Mileage). I did a couple basic things like putting in the light bar and replacing the headlight housings. Other than that it it pretty much the same as when I bought it. I cleaned the throttle body and sensors, using the proper cleaners. I ran two cans of SeaFoam through as well.
With my last truck, I 'flushed' the transmission (not a actual flush, but I changed the tranny oil about 7 times in a short period of time). A buddy suggested I do it, as it was a DOT truck and maybe wasn't treated the best. It was a automatic, just like my 06. Would that do any actual good?
I have noticed that truck has a spongy/delayed throttle response. The engine idles normally and there are no codes being thrown. I had a similar issue with my 03 but it had a cable to the pedal and I just had to tighten that up and it was better. Perhaps because of the straight pipe and GOTTS and no tune?
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I've tried to do my due diligence searching on this (I've seen many posts but most have other codes).. I have the P000A code, reads as follows-- Intake (A) Cam Position Sensor Slow Response (powertrain).
I have no misfires, hesitation rough idle, nothing. I have 94k miles and I always done my oil changes @ 5k intervals and I have not had any prior engine maintenance done to the car....
I took my R32 to the local VW dealer today and they are saying they believe it might be the time chain tensioners. I am wonder if this could be a simple sensor issue since the car runs perfectly fine, I just get the engine light coming back on after 1 to 2 weeks of clearing the code. I have had this issue since January and I thought it might be the cold weather here in WI.
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I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
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I am fairly new to working on diesel engines. I was towing a camp trailer and got a P0299, Turbo Charger Underboost engine code. I never gotten any other codes other than this one when towing. I decided to pull the turbo and clean the vanes. Everything seemed to go back together good but now I hear what sounds like an air leak coming from the turbo area. The boots on the intercooler pipe are in good shape, I only loosened the clamps at the intercooler and the turbo. Left the boots on the pipe. I have tightened the clamps around the exhaust pipe connections with no change. I also seem to get a slower response from the turbo and possibly not as much psi as normal (according to dashboard gauge). I have driven the truck five or ten miles trying to work the turbo and have not gotten any engine codes to this point.
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When the engine is cold, and up to about half way to 190 degrees on the temp gauge, the throttle seems to not want to open very far. Almost like there is a disconnect between your foot and the throttle. You get a little acceleration but no where as much as when the engine has warmed up. I have noticed this when the outside air temp is below 25 f or so. Is this some goofy emissions or "save the motor until its warm" thing?
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Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
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7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
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Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).
Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?
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I purchased a 2014 3.6 SEL from a non VW dealer. They may have put regular gas in the car, I feel like it runs weird, feel a delayed throttle response and a little stutter before acceleration? or is it just me?
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I have a Sonata 2012 limited version. Lately its been loosing power while driving. It will going around 60 for instance and as I am pressing the gas all of the sudden the rmp begins to drop and the car doesn't respond to the acceleration of me stepping in the gas. It is not until I completely get my foot of the gas and re-engange again that it will recognize it and continue accelerating. It will doing whether I am going 60, 40, 20 mph.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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