Tiguan :: 2010 - Lost Boost While Driving / Car Won't Start Since Turned It Off
Feb 22, 2016
Went to see a movie, Vehicle was running fine. Then, on the drive home I noticed there was no turbo boost at all. Was a struggle trying to pass someone going 10km faster than me. Got home, Reverse the Vehicle into my parking spot then the engine died. Car wont start now. Sounds and feels like the fuel pump went, turns over, a mere whisper of the engine trying to get going, but never does. Plugged it in, getting misfire codes. Checked the Diverter valve and seems to be fine, checking the front PVC Valve tomorrow. Its just really strange how the turbo wasn't functioning at all, but the vehicle ran all the way home, Then died when i backed it in my spot. and now wont start. Its throwing me off, All i can think of is Coil Packs, spark plugs, Diverter Valve, PVC valve. 2010 Tiguan 2.0t.....
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I recently installed a boost gauge on my 2010 Tiguan (Auto, 4 Motion) and was rather surprised by the readings when driving on the freeway.
At around 65-70 MPH on a flat surface, the manifold pressure is just about 0 (range of 1in Hg - 1psi) all the time. I am used to my 1.8t thats runs 10 in hg vacuum at highway speeds. I just find it a little odd that the turbo is working hard enough to relieve the intake of all vacuum, and sometimes even boost while driving with hardly any engine load.
My gauge reads 20 vacuum at idle and 15-18lbs max boost with apr software. What readings does every else here see? Any difference between auto and manual?
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I've just automatically left my AC on the past month I've had my 2010 Prius. I turned it off this morning and was surprised at the obvious boost in the car's power. It still ran in the ECO range, but with lots more zoom. Now that the warm weather is leaving the SF Bay Area, I might get used to leaving the AC off! My last 2 MPG's were 50.0 and 45.9 I'm hoping to see an increase w/o the AC on all the time.
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Up until this morning I thought I had almost a perfect car with a potential of lasting for 10 years but this morning, while I was driving on a local road with 35-40mph, so suddenly my car stopped moving and I couldn't even pull over as it completely stopped with no error or any warning/alerts! So, I turned it off and on again, it started working but I was still nervous if it would happen to me again while driving on a freeway but it didn't and I have made to work safely.
Now a question is should I bring it to the dealer today and have them run their diagnostics on their computer to see if anything is wrong with the car engine/ battery/ or anything else or should I just reboot it like we do for computers and go on everytime it happens? It's just little scary to think of its happening during a busy highway driving! I have driven it since July and has about 14K and I have had a good MPG of anywhere between 50 to 60.
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So i was driving home when my radio started to go out, headlights and gages were dimming and it seemed like my car was struggling to keep going and then it died. Hazard lights were blinking real slow and dim after also. Now when i try to start it just clicks and if i turn on my lights my radio goes out. i have a new battery, changed my alternator about 4 months ago, new battery terminal cables, and new starter relay. All fuses are good and new spark plugs. And by the way its a 1979 chrysler newport....
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I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
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Driving Down the highway at approximately 80 mph. Adjusting my electronic boost controller for more boost, I input the values set it and slowly accelerated in fifth gear reached max boost around 90 mph all of a sudden I Lost all throttle response EPC light ESP come on and I start decelerating. The pullover to the side of the road and I hook up my generic OBD2 scanner comes up with the code P0606 (001542 - Internal Control Module: Processor Fault == 214b) and P2106 (Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Power Limited due to Malfunction. After scanning and reading and looking up with the codes were disconnected the battery reconnected the battery and tried to start the car again but this Time Rd., Ranger pulled up behind me blocked traffic so I can get back on the highway soon as I get on the highway CEL back on run the code real quick message airflow sensor. Get off the next exit go to the gas station shut the car off disconnect and reconnect the mass airflow sensor clear the code get back on the highway check engine light does not come back on but idles fine 14 to 1 air fuel ratio but if I step on the gas and hit boost it goes all the way lean 60 mile an hour cruising speed it stayed at like between 13.9 and 15:1. Also got a CEL earlier in the day for p0040 (oxygen sensor swapped bank 1 sensor 1, Bank 2 sensor1.
Hpa air/water intercooler
Sri
9:1 weisco pistons
I.e. H beam rods
870cc injectors
Unitronic big turbo 870 tune
Gerrett gt35r
Full custom 3" exhaust
#ctsturbo downpipe
Ctsturbo turbo manifold
New gizmo electronic boost controller
Engine has Aprox 2300 miles body frame has about 79000.
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Was driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
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Ive been having two issues with my GLI lately, last week while driving on the parkway my car just randomly lost acceleration, no lights came on but the gas peddle was unresponsive. I was able to restart it while coasting and thought nothing of it. Then it kept doing it. It was raining that night but ive never had an issue before. Other times it dies it is sunny out. The second issue is sometimes when I hit over 10lbs of boost the car will start to misfire and run like crap. No CEL's come on the dash but if we scan it with VAGCOM it says theres misfires happening, obviously. Already did a smoke test and there are no vacuum leaks.
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Is there anyway to get a boost readout On the MFI for a 2012 tig s 4mo?? Also any way to LIFT a 2012 4mo???
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My friend's tacoma is having some starting issues.. He says when it's cold it starts right up but if he's been driving and turns it off then tries to start back up it won't start.. Said he has to let it cool a bit and then it'll start.
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No warning ...would not start. 24,000 miles on a 2011 PRIUS. Tow truck jump started it and I drove 1/2 mile and emission light, then red lights came on and I lost power? Towed to the dealer. This is my 1st hybrid and I have no clue what is wrong. The tow truck driver mentioned the hydrocell?
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I own a 2006 B6 and I'm just ticking down the list of common repairs... The last series started with boost lost anytime the car was pulling a steep hill or high acceleration. Eventually I lost boost altogether. I replaced the PCV valve and got back a little power but still no boost. This last weekend I replaced the DV valve. The old one was visually shot. The new one is the latest revision of that valve. Now, the boost will kick in, and cut out, kick in, cut out, in a rapid cycle during any acceleration. I double checked that it was installed and tightened (stripped the bolt heads) and reseated the electrical connection. I'm still getting the rough on/off of the turbo. If I slowly increase the acceleration it will act better, but that isn't a sure thing. I love the car, but I'm about to reach the point of pushing it off a cliff.
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I am very puzzled with my new 2015 Lexus RX 350 , I parked my car at the gas station and suddenly noticed that I dont have my key on me and couldnt find it inside the car anywhere. I thought I dropped it somewhere outside but to my surprise when I tried starting my car it started fine assuming the key was some where close by.
I tried stepping out and to lock the car and got a message the key is inside the vehicle so car wont lock. I was able to start the car and drive it home about an hour drive car never complained about key not detected message. I called the dealership and they told me car will keep running if you drop the key outside while the car is running but after 15 mins of driving it will give a message key not detected.
I am locking the car now using the second remote but its risky to have the car in such a condition as any one can drive it away if they open the lock somehow. I have looked every where under the seat, in between the centre console and seat, under the seats key no where to be found. Could it be possible that key was dropped outside and the car is malfunctioning that its allowing me to start it and drive it without complaining.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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Under light acceleration without any load. The motor backfired through the intake. Lost all boost. Other than the backfire noise the motor seems to be fine except for lack of power due to no boost. The motor has been serviced by Ford Dealer since new. All services have been done at 5K mile intervals. The last service was done at 60K miles. All filters had been changed at that time (oil, air and fuel).
I do have experience with turbo/ supercharged motors. My experience would tell me that the problem was with a lean condition at the time of the backfire. Plenty of fuel in the tank and no low fuel pressure warning. I have seen low fuel pressure warning in the past but it happened during the winter when temps were negative 40 degrees. The truck is still under extended warranty so I really don't have concerns regarding repair costs.
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I was driving on freeway today and the car start to stutter sounds like it's not getting gas the engine light to blink, so quickly exit the freeway and pull over the parking lot, turn the car off. Scan the car I got 5 codes all misfire 1,3 and 4 cylinder miss fire, I try to start the car it would crank but and try to run but if would die quickly sound like the car is not getting gas. Just wondering if fuel pump going bad.
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Removed the battery to install a boost gauge and came back to a christmas tree cluster. Not just the usual steering/EPC either. I can post the expanded scan but you can see a lot of things are affected, still drives fine however. Airbag fault and parking brake fault appear on MFD as well.
Thursday,07,May,2015,15:43:55:18277
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
[Code] ...
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I was driving the wifes 12 Tiguan SEL 4mo the other day and noticed that on accel it makes some odd noise, almost a tinny boost leak noise, it seems to accel just fine but at certain rpm's it makes this weird noise, its not a normal turbo boost noise i hear that as well. Maybe this noise is completely normal or maybe it isn't?
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Our car has been throwing a low boost code. We replaced the dv valve, pcv was just replaced but code still comes up. It's been making this noise that has arised with the code. It will do it down hill from 1500 to 2400. Just a constant rattle.
What do we do from here? Fix rod? New wastegate? New turbo?
[URL]......
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I am experiencing a power/boost pulse when under moderate to heavy acceleration. I'm wondering if this is a sign of my diverter valve failing or another issue withing the turbo system.
I don't have a boost gauge and the main pulsing seems to be between 2800 and 5k in the rpm band.
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