Tiguan :: 2010 - How To Check For Bad PCV (oil Separator)
Oct 24, 2015
I know, this has come up many times. I am having trouble determining whether the valve is good, bad or about to fail. Here are my symptoms:
I had several "bank one lean condition" codes come and go. Brought it in, they did not replace any parts, but have done "software update". Now the check engine has not returned for a few months. But, fuel consumption has increased, and one parameter, instant consumption at idle, has gone from 0.6L/hr under no load, to 1.3L/hr under same conditions. Performance is about the same. Now I can not do more than 450km on full tank mixed driving.
As for PCV, here is what I notice. At idle, if I remove oil cap, there is significant vacuum release, and engine starts idling rough. If I place my hand on oil cap opening, it will pull vacuum down again in about 3-4 seconds. Another thing, I can hear and feel when I place mu finger on breather hole on PCV valve top, that there is air being sucked.
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Yesterday, while cleaning my Tig, my check engine light came on. I didn't know what it could be so I checked my oil. Sure enough, it was low. I actually checked the oil maybe 3 weeks ago and it was fine. I was looking at my instrument cluster at an angle and I couldn't see one. Since, I decided to check for fault codes too, none showed up.
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I have a 2010 Tiguan and the check engine light has come on. When I use my ODB scan tool it doesn't find any codes and the check engine light won't go on. What might be the problem?
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New 2012 Tiguan S with a manual, 800 miles and the check engine light comes. Seems to idle a little rough, at least the idle seems to fluctuate a bit. The real disappointing part is I took it in to the dealer expecting an easy fix within an hour, its now been at the dealer for 2.5 days and they'll have it over the weekend as well. They tried putting several parts in it, still didn't fix it. They called VW who said pull out the new parts, put back the old parts, and apply some software update. Dealer did that, still not fixed.
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Went to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
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Well, my water separator light has been coming on and going off for the past week. Today, I finally thought about it while drinking a beer, and decided I'd pull the plug to see what I can catch.
As you can see from the pictures, this brownish color crap comes flowing out, followed by clean fuel. What it is? I've drained the separator in the past, but never have I seen this come out.
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My buddy has a '98 B4000 4.0 4x4 Auto, and just recently he lost 4th gear for whatever reason. Which is strange, considering 5th gear still works, and OD requires direct (4th) to work.
So we're thinking its a valvebody problem, and apparently the gasket blowing out of the separator plate is a very common problem. So we decided we're going to drop the valvebody and inspect/replace the gasket.
Now I see that the they now bond the gaskets to the separator plate: What is the part number for this bonded plate?
I've also seen mentions of a TSB, and other mentions of an updated EPC solenoid. Looking for more info on this?
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Anyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
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I was in cruise control at 50 and pressed and held the increase speed button to pass a car and once i got to 55 and still holding it the check engine light flashed twice a second until i released the increase speed button. Are you not suppose hold that button? Could this be APR related? I also noticed that the speed doesn't matter, it could be at any speed just hold it for like 5 seconds...
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What is the part number for the gasket that goes on the water separator on a 2003 6.0 diesel.
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My name is Linda & I own a 2008 F250 laritt crew cab , 6.4 I bought new in september 2007 .. I love my truck !!!!! but today i drained the water seperato as I always have it started and ran for a few seconds it sut itself off and now i cant get it to start
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We have been having near zero temps for several days and it occurred to me that there may be some amount of water in the water separator in the rail mounted fuel filter (not enough to send a message, but maybe some amount). I only have 3,000 miles on the truck. So, just wondering if a small amount of water is going to hurt anything in the filter or filter housing if it freezes? Should I drain the filter in freezing weather even though enough water hasn't collected enough to activate a message?
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2016 Powerstroke ... Bought the truck new and now with 17000km. 1st oil leaking from water separator. 2nd oil leak from what looks like the engine pan,and they have some O rings ordered for it. I have had either huge flares in all gears or slipping whatever you want to call it ? ford dealer finally acknowledged one year after me first telling them of this issue. Especially when the truck first driven in the morning never really fully engaged in gears,it has no torque and all revs. So just got it back from the dealer and its something of a firmer shift but still flares.
But also now shakes violently in reverse since i got the truck back from them. Don't really want to put a tuner on it to get shift firm enough to be practical but voiding warranty. i like the low down torque this motor produces,and in manual mode works well but still flares some. Horrible in auto no torque like driving an old beater with a worn out clutch. They replaced shift D and E solenoid but I don't think this it the issue with my transmission. im thinking of taking the truck to a tranny shop for diagnosis. Could it be line pressure ?
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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My wife started her 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) this morning and the Oil Pressure, Check Engine, and Check Battery lights were all on.
She turned the car off, waited and started it back on and the same thing.
I rushed our kid to day care and her to work before coming to work myself, I haven't had a chance to check anything.
I replaced the air filter and cabin air filter over the weekend and the oil was changed at the dealer 2 weeks ago.
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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So today. I filled my truck full of diesel. when I started it back up, it through the wrench light plus drain water separator. What it could be I have a loss in power. wont get over 45mph.
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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Today was the second time it happened. The first time I let it go.I was braking around a bend for the onramp of a highway when halfway through, I went to accelerate to start getting on the highway when the car wasn't in gear anymore. I hear the RPM's going from 3-5, and checked to make sure the car was in Drive. I thought quickly to put it in sport mode and was able to get on safely. After a couple of seconds I put it back in Drive and it was fine. I made an appointment, but the quickest one I could get was next week.
It's a 2010 Tiguan.
My worry is that they won't be able to replicate it once it's in their possession.
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Purchased a 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg edition 2 days ago and giving its first wash I noticed the hood up front doesn't quite line up with the front grill. I'm not sure if I'm being overly picky or if I could have stumbled upon some major problems. Carfax came back clean- 1 owner lease, no accidents. Upon further inspection, it looks like the bolts that hold the hood onto the hinge and the bolts that hold the drivers side qtr panel have paint scraped off the tops like they've been removed. The vin sticker on the qtr panel match the vehicles vin, so I'm not sure what to think or do or how to further investigate this.
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My 2010 Tiggy S had the base radio so I upgraded to RCD-510 and installed the antenna adapter. The roof antenna only has one coax from it to the radio. FM reception is great. What am I missing?
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