Tiguan :: 2010 - Hood Not Lining Up Right
Apr 7, 2013
Purchased a 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg edition 2 days ago and giving its first wash I noticed the hood up front doesn't quite line up with the front grill. I'm not sure if I'm being overly picky or if I could have stumbled upon some major problems. Carfax came back clean- 1 owner lease, no accidents. Upon further inspection, it looks like the bolts that hold the hood onto the hinge and the bolts that hold the drivers side qtr panel have paint scraped off the tops like they've been removed. The vin sticker on the qtr panel match the vehicles vin, so I'm not sure what to think or do or how to further investigate this.
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30-40 seconds after shutting down the engine, i can hear a single "clack/click" noise coming from under the hood, near the right wheel. Is it normal? What's moving, some sort of electrovalve/actuator?
I hear it being out of the car, inside it's not so easy to listen. It's well after I turn off the key and it does it only once. It's not really near the wheel, with the hood open i located the CLACK behind the engine (on the side near the windscreen), could it be something related with fap / etc.?
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My lining is starting to come off, and it looks like it was cut short when assembled...
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE, 4 cylinder. Every time it rains the passenger side roof lining gets wet and floor gets a puddle. I did not see any drain holes in the moonroof area. I have read that the drains get clogged, but cannot find them. Looked behind the front wheel wells and did not see any drain tubes.
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I have some trouble with some rubber lining coming off my car, I'd like to re-attach it but don't know what kind of adhesive to use that is weatherproof and long lasting.
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I put on new Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads. I did the brake in runs and could feel the stopping power improving. When I got back to the house I looked at the rotors and I noticed that on the driver's side the pads are not parallel to the rotor. They are hitting on the outer edge of the outboard side and the inner edge (closest to the hub) on the inboard side. Took it all back apart and I can't see and reason for this. Double checked all the mating surfaces and didn't see any problems. I torqued the caliper brackets to 150 ftlbs and the lug nuts also to 150 ftlbs. Is it a problem the caliper sliders?
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Lately my roof lining has been 'squeaking' when I drive over textured surfaces. I previously reported to the dealer as a sunroof issue but now I detect that it's coming from the headliner behind the sunroof. It seems that the lining is loose. How I should approach the dealer to explain this? Am I using the right jargon? All my rattles have been eliminated bar this one and it drives me nuts!
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Just wondering if this would hurt anything or if it's a splash guard of sorts. There's been previous posts about the alternators being mounted too low on these trucks and getting water damaged over short periods of time.
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I have a 2013 GS350 thats lowered on Tanabe Springs and 20s. It looks nice but the only problem i have is rubbing against the plastic (that what it sounds like) lining in the fender well. This only happens when I make a quick left turn or U turn. The tire size is 245/35/20.
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I have a used 2010. Came home to my car rifled through (I left it unlocked) door not completely closed, 12v battery dead because of interior lights. Jumped it. Got it into ready mode. Thought I left it on enough to charge the battery. Locked it. Unlocked and locked it with the fob... no problem.
Came back later in the day, now dead and locked. Car didn't come with manual key. Very expensive to replace so i skipped it. Is that now my only solution without damaging the car? How to open the hood so I can jump it?
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I rented a 2010 Toyota Matrix with 29,000 miles from Hertz Rent2Buy and noticed rust in the engine compartment screw heads, hose clamps, battery clamp, and on top of the shock housing. The pipe before the muffler has it also. The inside smells fine and the car runs fine. I ran an autocheck report and nothing bad came up. I took it to a local Midas shop for a visual courtesy check and they said it looked fine and that it could have been from humidity or rain if hood was open. The car was registered originally in FL and then mostly in PA. Is this rust normal or should I be concerned?
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When I look under the hood of the Elantra and then try to close it, it seems to not want to close. I usually have to lift the hood up and let it fall which kind of worries me will break something...
or I have to put what seems to be a lot of pressure on the hood with my arms and hands to close it...to the point where I feel the metal of the hood bend slightly inwards and then pop out to its regular shape.
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Problem with the paint chipping/flaking on the hood of a 2010 LE? I have three spots, about 1/16"-1/8" on my hood that have chipped/flaked and you can see the primer. I don't think that I have been hit by flying debris but that's not to say that it couldn't be the case. I'm thinking of mentioning it to the dealer when I go in for my 20K service just so it is on record should there be some future TSB/recall for a paint problem. Car has been on the road for 18 months.
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I got a small rust spot on a corner of the hood of my car (5 months old). The 3 year/36,000 mile paint warranty included with the purchase of the Elantra should take care of this, correct? It's small so I was gonna sand it down myself and use a touch-up pen, but now having second thoughts. Should I take it to the dealership instead?
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I was driving yesterday and I noticed at highway speeds the hood vibrates. I have a 2011 RX with 62000kms on it.
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I noticed my car hiss and hum from under the hook after shut down, for a few minutes. What is it doing?
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Went to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.
I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no support there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but how to get around to this.
How to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.
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I'm wiring up some COB LED strips like dowdogg did, mounted them in the same location in the lower grill (although I put mine at the top slot, not the bottom).
I've got them mounted and wired up and grounded. I went to grab my Fluke and find an ignition wire (I want them to be on all the time, as long as the ignition is on), and my 9v battery is dead for my Fluke. I don't feel comfortable using a test light on a newer car (stories of fried ECU, BCM and deployed air bags, etc) - so I figured I would ask here.
I'm really looking for a wire in the fuse box, coming off of the junction plug (ECS or BCM, I forget). I fused the power to the lights, so that isn't much of an issue.
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I know, this has come up many times. I am having trouble determining whether the valve is good, bad or about to fail. Here are my symptoms:
I had several "bank one lean condition" codes come and go. Brought it in, they did not replace any parts, but have done "software update". Now the check engine has not returned for a few months. But, fuel consumption has increased, and one parameter, instant consumption at idle, has gone from 0.6L/hr under no load, to 1.3L/hr under same conditions. Performance is about the same. Now I can not do more than 450km on full tank mixed driving.
As for PCV, here is what I notice. At idle, if I remove oil cap, there is significant vacuum release, and engine starts idling rough. If I place my hand on oil cap opening, it will pull vacuum down again in about 3-4 seconds. Another thing, I can hear and feel when I place mu finger on breather hole on PCV valve top, that there is air being sucked.
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Today was the second time it happened. The first time I let it go.I was braking around a bend for the onramp of a highway when halfway through, I went to accelerate to start getting on the highway when the car wasn't in gear anymore. I hear the RPM's going from 3-5, and checked to make sure the car was in Drive. I thought quickly to put it in sport mode and was able to get on safely. After a couple of seconds I put it back in Drive and it was fine. I made an appointment, but the quickest one I could get was next week.
It's a 2010 Tiguan.
My worry is that they won't be able to replicate it once it's in their possession.
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My 2010 Tiggy S had the base radio so I upgraded to RCD-510 and installed the antenna adapter. The roof antenna only has one coax from it to the radio. FM reception is great. What am I missing?
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