I have a Tiguan 2010 Manual , I noticed yesterday that the fans Runs after 5 Seconds from Turning on the Engine and continues to Run until i switch off the Engine. Everything else in the car is normal , Temp , Oil Temp l Airco ..etc. The only thing i notice is the high noise due to this.
View 8 RepliesThe other morning I went out to the garage and heard a strange noise coming from the rear (underneath the 3rd row seating/storage area) of my GX460. It sounded like a pump or something running continuously. I was in the garage for 10 minutes and the noise had started before I entered the garage and continued after I left. When I went back out to the garage 3-4 hours later it had stopped so I am not certain how long it was running for. I previously owned a 2006 GX470 with the rear air suspension and this was not the sound that was coming from my new GX. The car had not been running or driven in over 8 hours and I am at a loss as to what it could be. I figured I would check here first before delving into the 700+ page owners manual to troubleshoot.
View 9 RepliesI recently bought Lumina 2004 LS. both radiator fan clicks when temperature is very high (about to reach red). Also I have noticed when the AC switched on fans are not running continuously, works for few seconds and went off.
I have already tried replacing the thermostat and two relays. What to check? Looking for wiring diagram for Radiator fans.
I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
I have a 2008 F350 FX4 with the 6.4l diesel, a couple weeks ago I was reprogramming the ecm and noticed the vacuum pump was running and wouldn't stop, so after a bunch of reading and testing i changed the solenoid vacuum valve. I tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks.
View 3 RepliesFrom the first day I bought my 2014 gx 460, my tire pressure warning is lit continuously. I checked all tire pressure even the spare tire and everything was wright.
View 2 Replies2010 Prius V owner as of last week. All has been going well and got into the car this morning and all of the above noted lights are on at start-up and stay on as I drive. Have made appointment with the dealer but they cannot get me in until late next week. I did make a short drive this morning and all seemed fine with handling and braking. Searched a few threads here and answers are very varied and none that I saw had all of above lights on. I don't think that it is the Hill Start Assist. Safe to drive until we can get into the dealership?
View 14 RepliesI own a Ford escape 2010. the engine light stays on continuously. The car wont pass inspection (required in MA). I just took the car to an Auto service place and they came up with the code P144A. Ford dealership refuses to provide me with a interpretation of that code # unless I bring it in and they can do a diagnostic themselves.... What that particular code is in english. (It has to do with the engine).
View 6 RepliesOk, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
Driving home yesterday and a check engine light came on while I was at a stoplight. When I got home I plugged my scanner in and came up with a P2187 code, running lean at idle. Cleared the code and went inside to start doing my google homework.
Looking around various threads I'm leaning towards the PCV valve being shot. Seems like they go quite a bit and it describes quite a few of my problems going on; CEL, lumpy idle, and a bit sluggish.
Currently at 50k miles on my 2011. I've been Revo stage one for about 7k if that makes a difference too.
Went to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?
I know, this has come up many times. I am having trouble determining whether the valve is good, bad or about to fail. Here are my symptoms:
I had several "bank one lean condition" codes come and go. Brought it in, they did not replace any parts, but have done "software update". Now the check engine has not returned for a few months. But, fuel consumption has increased, and one parameter, instant consumption at idle, has gone from 0.6L/hr under no load, to 1.3L/hr under same conditions. Performance is about the same. Now I can not do more than 450km on full tank mixed driving.
As for PCV, here is what I notice. At idle, if I remove oil cap, there is significant vacuum release, and engine starts idling rough. If I place my hand on oil cap opening, it will pull vacuum down again in about 3-4 seconds. Another thing, I can hear and feel when I place mu finger on breather hole on PCV valve top, that there is air being sucked.
Today was the second time it happened. The first time I let it go.I was braking around a bend for the onramp of a highway when halfway through, I went to accelerate to start getting on the highway when the car wasn't in gear anymore. I hear the RPM's going from 3-5, and checked to make sure the car was in Drive. I thought quickly to put it in sport mode and was able to get on safely. After a couple of seconds I put it back in Drive and it was fine. I made an appointment, but the quickest one I could get was next week.
It's a 2010 Tiguan.
My worry is that they won't be able to replicate it once it's in their possession.
Purchased a 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg edition 2 days ago and giving its first wash I noticed the hood up front doesn't quite line up with the front grill. I'm not sure if I'm being overly picky or if I could have stumbled upon some major problems. Carfax came back clean- 1 owner lease, no accidents. Upon further inspection, it looks like the bolts that hold the hood onto the hinge and the bolts that hold the drivers side qtr panel have paint scraped off the tops like they've been removed. The vin sticker on the qtr panel match the vehicles vin, so I'm not sure what to think or do or how to further investigate this.
View 7 RepliesMy 2010 Tiggy S had the base radio so I upgraded to RCD-510 and installed the antenna adapter. The roof antenna only has one coax from it to the radio. FM reception is great. What am I missing?
View 7 RepliesI always set my tiguan 2010 at 72 degree. But today, the air came out was rather cold. I had to turn it all the way to the hottest side to get the hot air. What is wrong?
View 4 RepliesBrought the Tig in for an oil change & while it was on the lift the tech noticed that the subject bushings are cracked/separating...Tig has about 43,400 mi...is this a common issue?
View 6 RepliesSo I'm about 10 mins from home today when the coolant low/overheating dash light (the key light) came on and started flashing. I got off the next exit and pulled into a Wal-Mart and notice I had no coolant when I lifted the hood. There was a strong coolant smell so I looked under the car and it was pouring out.
I got some more put in to get me home. I was 5 mins away and by the time I got home it was completely empty again. I can't see the leak looking from the top of the engine. When I look up it's coming out on the passenger side at the back of the firewall.
I filled it back up and just pulled the car into the garage. 7 hours later and the coolant is still full so it only happens when I'm driving. There was no oil present in the coolant leak. I pulled the oil dipstick and it looks normal, no milky color.
I'm having it towed to the local VW dealership tomorrow morning but just wanted to see what everyone's opinion on the issue might be.
Only 33K miles on the Tiguan The engine never ran hot. The needle was right in the middle the entire time. No engine mods other than a Chip, Intake, and Catch Can. I've yet to hear about either of those three mods causing this issue.
I have a 4motion Automatic Tiguan 2011. It always had a tiny acceleration lag which I believe is quite normal. But lately, our Tiguan developed a that-doesn't-sound-right symptom. I feel the acceleration gap is much longer now, the engine makes quite a bit of noise but the car hesitates to go, and it gets a bit worse on uphills. It had a transfer box leak that was fixed 3-4 months ago.
It sounds like a transmission problem to me. Is there something wrong with the power train?
I need to change spark plugs in my daughter's 2010 Tiguan but I have never worked on a VW before. How do I get to the spark plugs and what brand is recommended?
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