Tiguan :: 2009 - Stalling Out After Startup / Hum Lasts For 5 - 10 Minutes After Shut Off
Jul 4, 2013
I'm the owner of a 2009 4-motion SEL with 85,000 kms....recently it has been stalling out after startup. Sometimes this occurs after driving away, but most frequently before. It usually works fine after a couple of starting attempts. I've read through some posts regarding the high pressure fuel pump as a possibility. I've also noticed a pump or fan type hum that lasts for 5-10 min. emanating from the rear of the vehicle after shutting it down. Not sure if this is normal or could be related?
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From time to time I get this high vibration on start-up of the car. It almost seems like more of the engine noise and vibration is coming through to the cabin. It only lasts about 5 seconds from initial start up and the rpm does not change and stays constant. This only happens maybe once every other week or once a month. What or why this could be happening?
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester with 240K miles on it. When I start the engine in the morning, there's a squealing noise under the hood that lasts for a few seconds. (Usually goes away as soon as I pop the hood and look at the engine.) I think it's one of three things: AC compressor, alternator, or power steering pump, but I haven't been able to isolate the noise to one of the three. I don't want to wind up replacing all three.
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I have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
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Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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I have about 7k miles on the car. I have had this slight burning oil smell in start up for a while now. I couldn't find any leaks, and no smoke or anything else. It doesn't happen on every start, it's pretty random.
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My Accord has recently been stalling on start-up, and I'm trying to figure out if it's something I need to worry about. Here are more details:
It only happens sporadically (though more frequently recently), and only after the car is warmed up. The car starts up fine, but then a few seconds later the engine sputters and stalls. Second and third tries at starting it up are no different (still stalls). If I can get the car into gear and moving quickly enough (before it has a chance to stall), the car runs absolutely fine.
I took it to my regular mechanic and they, of course, were unable to reproduce the problem. They checked "everything" (including starter and fuel pump) and said it all tested "normal". It's otherwise running perfectly well.
My observation: the times when it stalls, it sounds/feels like the engine doesn't rev up enough to "catch" (non-technical explanation). I don't know a whole lot about cars, but this seems like a fuel pump issue, right? Maybe it's only acting up sporadically, which is why it tested normal at the shop?
An added mystery that probably doesn't have much to do with the problem, but that I find intriguing and would be perfect for Tom and Ray! 98% of the time, this happens when the car is parked in a parking garage. I can only remember 2 times that it's happened after being parked outside.
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So my R32 just recently started to stall at any stand still longer than 1-2 mins with the A/C on. Every thing works perfectly fine as avertised as long as the engine has not warmed up yet, I am driving at a cruising speed, or the A/C is not turned on. I'm thinking the issue maybe be heat related causing the crank position sensor to malfunction. Is there anyway to check the cps with Vagcom?
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Since day 1 I picked up the brand new Tiguan the fan is on once engine is shut off. Temperature here varies from a few degree celcius to mid 15, the fan is always on sometime longer 2-3 minutes. Is this normal?
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I have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
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We got a new 2016 Tiguan recently and it's a good car but since mile 0 it's had an issue where if you run the AC cold for a few minutes, and then just turn off the AC (but keep the fan on) the car starts to smell pretty bad within 3-5 minutes. I'm talking the smelly feet, cheesy aroma stuff.
The hotter it is outside the more this accentuates. I used to have a 2012 GTI that would do that every now and then, especially at the start of the Spring but it would quickly go away after the first few days or some Lysol.
I assume this car was parked outside the dealership for many months so that may have caused it. I've taken it back to the dealer twice, first time they said they ran a full deodorization, whatever that means, and second time they said they couldn't find anything wrong.
I looked at the air cabin filter, looks brand new, only strange thing was the cover panel under the glovebox was missing, maybe from when they replaced the filter after my complaints. Car is sitting at 1400 miles now, if anything the smell is now worse and I'm taking it back to the dealership for a 3rd time tomorrow morning...
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So i have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L v8 , it has been running good until as of lately. It has stalled or died on me 3 times, I can usually drive it for about 20 minutes, or travel short distances before it stalls out on me, the stalling is completely random, any speed/RPM. I have read everything under the sun about what could be wrong here, but where to start, have been hearing a lot about new Crankshaft sensors, TPS's , etc...
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Have a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.2 liter. Having stalling issues after 20-25 minutes of driving. Will restart but gets shorter and ashorter intervals between stalls and then stalls right after start every time until in has sat a while and cools down. Changer ECU.
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Drove the car, 20 min to shopping, and when I came out the car would sputter and die??!! it happened a few times.. it would crank for really a long time, engine would fire up but sputter & die. I was cussing & let the car sit at mall parking lot for a bit, thinking I'll have to cab home but it started up again after 10 min and drove fine. It happened on a parking lot, not on the highway.
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I have an intermittent start-up problem with my 2001 BMW Z-3, 3.0: cylinder 1 misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a few minutes under certain conditions. The misfire conditions are consistent:A)OBDII code P0313 (misfire detected with low fuel) or code PO1343 (cylinder 1 misfire with fuel cutoff). Both OBDII codes equate to BMW fault code 238.B)after winter storage it misfires on start–up for 5-10 minutes (I’ve always added a fuel stabilizer before winter storage);C)after a spike in humidity it misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a minute after a rain storm or;D)If I don’t run the car for a 3-5 days (always stored in a garage) it misfires for a few seconds (just long enough to turn on the “check engine” light).
Otherwise, the car runs flawlessly –plenty of power – smooth as silk - no hesitation, but with the bloody check engine light on 50% of the time.In lieu of black tape over the check engine indicator, I’ve taken the car alternately to both Minneapolis BMW dealers over the years (once if not twice a year), but the intermittent nature of the misfire and the fact that I store the car 5 months the a year has made it difficult to pin down the exact “root cause” of the problem. The dealership mechanics have swapped and/or replaced the cylinder 1 fuel injector, spark plug, cylinder coil and cable, kept it overnight and for days. The last dealership diagnosis was a defective cylinder 1 exhaust valve that could only be fixed with valve job! Yes, that’s right, pull the head and do a complete valve job - on all six cylinders. What am I missing here? What about the infamous BMW VANOS valve control system?
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My V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
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1974 F100 starts to chug after 15 minutes driving although infrequently when driving at a slower pace. Would happen around the 70mph speed and stop chugs when slowed to 65mph.
Only have experienced this after it's been warmed up, in the past 3 sessions of driving it will do this on freeway when driving 70mph, slow down to 65mph and no issue. Although, it seemed to have chugged once this morning when driving 45mph up a hill when during time engine was partially warm.
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I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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