Tiguan :: 2009 SE 2.0T Stutter Or Stumble Periodically
Jun 29, 2015
My Tiguan runs really well for the most part. I do have a slight issue that happens above 2200 RPM or so that seems to be getting worse as time passes. With little effort on flat road, the car runs flawlessly. Up a slight incline or light grade on the freeway it gets an intermittent misfire or stumbles periodically (getting more frequent). It smooths out and has a ton of power with heavier acceleration.
It doesn't always happen (though more often than not lately), doesn't throw a code, ambient temp doesn't effect it, happens rain or shine and engine temp doesn't change it. The only code I get from time to time is P2181 (coolant performance), but I can't see that being the issue and it stays happy right around 190ish. Gas mileage is not effected, getting around 27-28 MPG average. Using 91 octane Shell gas. I did a Seafoam induction cleaning since it started happening and Seafoam in the tank with no change. Seems to happen in all gears. if I stay below 2200 RPM it never occurs. The car has about 68,000 miles on it.
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I am trying to trace down an issue with my 2009 Tiguan, auto. Its in regards to a stutter I notice in the vehicle at a certain speed/rpm. Almost appears if it doesn't want to shift and unless you really give it. The car certainly still has the power and all, this is also more noticeable on colder days. Today I stopped by the dealer where the vehicle was originally purchased as I am the 2nd owner and they provided me a complete print out of all the service history of the vehicle (quite informative).
Reading through it I found that the not even 6000 km the intake manifold was replaced under warranty they scanned for error P0215. This was on August 2014. They also replaced the injectors during this service.
And then also back in Dec. 2010, 70000km ago they replaced the manifold runner assembly and manifold for the first time.. Appears that they replaced the manifold on this car twice now.. Could this be my cause for the stutter?
Hard to believe that the same part would be getting replaced on a car within 60000km twice..
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I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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328i, inline 6, starts fine. drive 100 yards to stop sign, give the car gas to go, and it seems to stumble or stutter. gas has to be pressed heavily to get it to smooth out. seems to get better as the engine warms up. no code or engine light comes up. thought the engine was just cold natured, wife says it does it with her even when warm, I couldn't duplicate when warm. Can dealer diagnosis with no code?
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About two months ago, my EPC light came on and my check engine light started flashing while I was driving home from work. Never heard of/saw that EPC light before. The car started to stutter and buck really bad when trying to accelerate (on light and hard acceleration). Also, when sitting idle (like at a red light or stop sign) the car would still buck but not as bad as when driving. The only time the car doesn't buck is when I am cruising, like after I just get done pressing on the gas and the car is coasting basically. I call the mechanic the next day and he tells me right off the bat, it sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor and to drop it off so he can look at it. So I drop it off, he tells me he believes it is just a bad coil on cylinder 1, so he swapped it out and gave me an oil change (it was due for one). Picked my car up on a Wednesday, it seemed fine. Then on a Saturday same issues and same warning lights came back on. So I had it scanned at Autozone, misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, random cylinder misfire and multiple cylinder misfire, so I call him and tell him, he said just bring it back he'll swap it out. I changed the coils myself since it only takes 10 mins. The car seemed fine for about a month. Then two weeks ago, all of the same issues are back and same warning lights.
Had issues with the EPC light? Also, is any truth that the Crankshaft Position Sensor can be related to this or was the mechanic completely wrong? Read another post by someone else and there was talk of carbon buildup. My friend is mechanic and said that he thinks it might be a fuel related issue or electrical, since the issues keep coming back. Also, it misfires more when the heat is on and seems like the interior lights flicker a little when it's misfiring at idle, it's very subtle, definitely notice it so I don't know if it's electrical, fuel related, carbon build up or what.
-February of 2014, I had a fuel pump replaced by the dealer (it was for a recall)
-Back in January 2015, I had the ignition coils and spark plugs replaced by a friend (who is a mechanic).
-In July I had the lifters replaced (by the same mechanic I called)
-Been up to date with oil changes
-Use plus gas from Citgo
Going to drop it off at the dealership tomorrow.
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I have a 2011 Fx4 super crew and my advance trac warning light comes on and off periodically while driving, I have taken my truck to the dealership about 6 times to have the problem fixed. For some reason they can't fix it, I have tried everything I can to get it fixed but still having the issue.
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OK, 4th time in a week that my truck has had this problem... Seems to only be when the truck is already warmed up, restarting after sitting for a few minutes. Starts up just fine, but as soon as I drop it into gear it begins to stutter and stumble, running rough as can be and absolutely no throttle response. I have to kill the engine and restart the truck for it to correct itself, but the restart takes up to 5 seconds of extended cranking to finally fire up. Today is the first time I actually got a CEL and a code: P0078. Only had the truck 8 days now...
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Just hit 70,000 miles and went out of warranty. The issue is the Heads Up Display periodically shows "Check Back Up Sensor". When this occurs the sensors do not detect, and this doesn't happen all the time. I did clean the lens on each of them.
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A couple questions I have about my truck. I'm still new to the F150.
First, my truck has an Ecoboost and I have a slight stumble/hesitation when you start the truck cold. It clears up within 10 seconds and doesn't seem to affect drivability whatsoever.
Second, it seems that only my driver side mirror has the "dimming feature" to it. Is this normal?
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2009 Passat 2.0 TSI. Purchased new in Nov. 2009. The car is 2 years and 3 months old. It has 28xxx miles. Maintenance regularly performed. (Mobil 1 0W-40 every 4-5 thousand miles...)
I was driving the car yesterday afternoon when about 2 minutes after leaving home the car's check engine light turns on along with the EPC light after a minute. the car started to stutter with light smoke. I drove home immediately to call the dealership. I scanned the car and it had two cylinder related fault codes. I believe 'Cylinder 2...' and 'Cylinder disabled?' Unfortunately I did not write down the codes as I was in a fury.
The dealership tells me to bring the car in as soon as possible 10 minutes later, I turn the car on and relatively heavy white smoke continues with excessive stuttering especially while in park. Additionally, the muffler sounded as if it was sputtering out the white smoke (1920s train in color and noise). I drove the car slowly to the dealership and noticed difficulty accelerating to 15 miles per hour. I did not try to go above that.
I just had the intake manifold replaced 4-5 weeks ago since I had a check engine light related to that.
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My mother-in-law just bought a 2009 Tiguan, and she's just over 5k miles. I looked in the owner's manual, and in booklet 1.1, page 37, it looks like service is every 5k miles, just like on my A4 and my wife's Passat. However, the dealer is telling me that VW recommends 10k service on the Tiguan. What am I missing? Is the dealer wrong? Am I misunderstanding the Owner's Manual?
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I have been running the APR stage 1 for about 10 months. Yesterday, my vehicle refused to start. I got in the car and turned the key, The console lit up as usual, the second I tried to crank all the lights and display went off and the vehicle refused to crank. I suspected the battery, and tried jump-starting using a booster. While the engine cranked, it refused to start. I finally had it towed to the dealer.
First the dealer suspected battery issues. But today he calls and tell me they are going to have to replace the ECM. They claim they are not able to communicate with the ECU at all, and when they connected an ECU from another Tiguan and apparently that worked. Dealer claims its because of the tune.
The symptoms as I saw it - When I turned the key to the ACC position (with the Batt-booster connected) the console lights up as usual. If you keep it there, the lights also go out one after the other in the regular order. I was under the assumption this should mean the ECU is working and the circuits/sensors are passing the self-test. The MID, radio, seatbelt chimes etc - everything works with the booster/jumper connected - except it wont start
Therefore - can it be the ECU?
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I have a 2009 SEL (NA) that doesnt have the convenience settings on the MFD, I have read this can be enabled at the dealership or through VAG-Com. Although my user manual states I can access it (which i cant) should i take this up with the dealer to enable the feature?
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I have a 2009 VW tiguan 2.0T that vibrates violently when i hit 60mph, I mean pretty hard to the point where it doesn't feel safe to keep accelerating and everything inside not attached starts to rattle. Regardless Ive driven it to 100+ to see if it vibrates on higher gears and it does. I also have cruised on neutral downhills and stills vibrates the same.
So far this is what I have had it:
-Aligned and balanced tires twice.
-Had inspected and replaced both of the axles with new OEM parts.
-Had overall suspension inspected and everything seems fine.
-Checked the bearings by two different professionals, one used a dynamometer. came out fine
So far nothing has worked, and I am afraid or actually in denial that it might be something major with the transmission. I've researched and read various post around the web but i have not found anything beyond checking and/or replacing the the aforementioned parts.
I inadvertently hit 85 mph driving on an downhill interstate road and the vibration stopped, but came back again as soon as I slowed down to 60-80. Lets me to believe that there is something wrong with one of the transmission gears, probably 3th or 4th.
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My 2009 Tiguan SEL with 120,000 miles is going through oil like crazy--quart a month with normal driving. More if under load--drive in mountains. We have massive amount of oil on driveway. So much I've had to put down oil dry.
The oil appears to be coming from the turbo. I noticed it on the back firewall and back of the engine near the upper timing cover. I took it in to mechanic and he confirmed the oil is blowing out of the turbo. He said a remanufactured turbo from VW runs about $1250 and it'll be roughly $1200 labor to install and clean the intake side.
The Tiguan has been a pain. Just replaced the air conditioner compressor over the summer. That was $1200. Have had two intake manifolds installed due to misfires. One was at my cost, the other VW's. Ballast on driver side Xenon headlamp went. Had to take the entire front off to get under headlamp assembly to replace that. And then there are those water leaks from the poorly designed sunroof drain tubes. I've replaced all four of them myself. They're about due to be replaced again.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan SE 4Motion with a little over 82K miles on it. Hard to pin point exactly but somewhere around 65 - 68K the vehicle started shaking, noticeably but not ridiculously while driving at a decent speed, 50 mph seems to be the speed where it's most notable. I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as the tires needed to be replaced. I had the tires replaced a few K later but the shake was the same. I took it back to the dealer who did the basic balance troubleshooting but they were unable to find anything. I pressed them and they did some additional troubleshooting but then I felt like I was wasting my time with that dealer because they started looking at the floor and talking nonsense about road conditions.
I feel the shaking regardless of road surface or speed, noticeable but not violent, 50mph and steady seems to be most noticeable. I feel that it is transmission/drive train related because everything else it could be has been checked or changed but I could be wrong. I feels like it's directly under the vehicle, I have sat in different seats while someone else drove and it doesn't seem to be more noticeable on one side or another. When on the highway going a steady speed on it will increase and decrease seemingly randomly. It hasn't really gotten any worse over the past 15K miles or I would have brought it to a different dealer, but it really bothers me, especially since my Tiguan was so smooth when I bought it.
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My Tig came with 17's ... I purchased 19" Savannahs but now my TPMS is on.
I pumped up the PSI to 38 even and its on still ( blinks for a min then solid on ).
Is this likely needing resetting? One dealer told me the sensors may need changing?
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So i have a 09 tiguan with 112000 kms. and lately i have been having problems with the transmission. i am getting a vibration upon acceleration and it acts up with its shifting like switching gears every once and a while like its hunting for a correct gear. this problem has been getting steadily worse. Is there anything i should know about these transmissions that is common to go on them that would cause this. the car is not beat on and i tried to get vw to do a filter and fluid change but they refused to stating it is a sealed unit and the do not touch it.
Is this a software issue (i highly doubt it) as i did a tb reset and it made it a bit better. i am at a loss with this car it is costing me a fortune. One last thing i had the prnd letters light up solid one time a while ago upon starting but it only did it once and never did it again. I am pretty sure this says there is a fault if i am not correct.
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I have a 2009 TSI/2WD with 68k miles on it which we bought brand new. The car has been relatively trouble free for all these years and my wife loves the car.
Middle of the last December my wife calls me and tells me the "Check Engine" light came on while she was driving.I told her if there is no unusual noises or any warning lights blinking drive the car home and I'll take a look at it when I get home.She said everything looks normal and nothing unusual.
Long story short,I came home scanned it with VAG-COM,found random misfire codes and spotted the oil leak on the garage floor and saw where it was coming from.Yeah you guessed it right, it was the Crank Shaft seal.
I went ahead and replaced it with new one from the dealer and a new PCV breather too.Started the car after I finish No leak,No check engine and everything was fine.
Until two weeks ago again the check engine light came on.went ahead scanned again and this time it was P0300,P0302(RANDOM AND CYL.#2). There was no visible misfire that I could feel so I cleared the MIL.I also did swap the coils to make sure it wasn't coil related and again it stayed the same as before.Spark plugs have been replaced 3 months ago,so that's not it either.
After couple of days of my wife driving it,I noticed that the MIL always comes on when she starts the car after it was driven and the engine was hot or warmed up, so after a lot of searching and reading online forums,I came to conclusion that it must be the valves and it's"DE CARB" time.
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I would like to know how you adjust the headlight height on your Tig. Does it have an electrical control/wheel on the dashboard or are there any different ways of adjusting.
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