Tiguan :: 2009 Quits When Leaving Parking Lot - No Hard Acceleration
Dec 31, 2013
My wife's 2009 Tiguan SEL has quit on her several times over the last several weeks. Each time it has happened as she was leaving a store parking lot--moderately warm, no hard acceleration. She says battery light is lit on the instrument panel when this happens. Nothing else. She says it will not turn over, but that might be because she doesn't put it back in park before trying to restart. She waits a few minutes and it starts with no problem.
I've had into the dealer and another shop I use periodically. Computer had codes for misfire, faulty ignition switch, flap stuck open in intake, and fuel pressure. Ignition switch, intake, plugs, and air filter were replaced. Cleaned carbon from the valves. Have run one tank of fuel system cleaner through.
I see a few other posts on fuel pressure or pump issues. Has this resolved with a new fuel pump? From what I understand, it's a pretty expensive repair since there are two and they sit in the tanks.
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About two months ago, my EPC light came on and my check engine light started flashing while I was driving home from work. Never heard of/saw that EPC light before. The car started to stutter and buck really bad when trying to accelerate (on light and hard acceleration). Also, when sitting idle (like at a red light or stop sign) the car would still buck but not as bad as when driving. The only time the car doesn't buck is when I am cruising, like after I just get done pressing on the gas and the car is coasting basically. I call the mechanic the next day and he tells me right off the bat, it sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor and to drop it off so he can look at it. So I drop it off, he tells me he believes it is just a bad coil on cylinder 1, so he swapped it out and gave me an oil change (it was due for one). Picked my car up on a Wednesday, it seemed fine. Then on a Saturday same issues and same warning lights came back on. So I had it scanned at Autozone, misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, random cylinder misfire and multiple cylinder misfire, so I call him and tell him, he said just bring it back he'll swap it out. I changed the coils myself since it only takes 10 mins. The car seemed fine for about a month. Then two weeks ago, all of the same issues are back and same warning lights.
Had issues with the EPC light? Also, is any truth that the Crankshaft Position Sensor can be related to this or was the mechanic completely wrong? Read another post by someone else and there was talk of carbon buildup. My friend is mechanic and said that he thinks it might be a fuel related issue or electrical, since the issues keep coming back. Also, it misfires more when the heat is on and seems like the interior lights flicker a little when it's misfiring at idle, it's very subtle, definitely notice it so I don't know if it's electrical, fuel related, carbon build up or what.
-February of 2014, I had a fuel pump replaced by the dealer (it was for a recall)
-Back in January 2015, I had the ignition coils and spark plugs replaced by a friend (who is a mechanic).
-In July I had the lifters replaced (by the same mechanic I called)
-Been up to date with oil changes
-Use plus gas from Citgo
Going to drop it off at the dealership tomorrow.
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So i have a 09 tiguan with 112000 kms. and lately i have been having problems with the transmission. i am getting a vibration upon acceleration and it acts up with its shifting like switching gears every once and a while like its hunting for a correct gear. this problem has been getting steadily worse. Is there anything i should know about these transmissions that is common to go on them that would cause this. the car is not beat on and i tried to get vw to do a filter and fluid change but they refused to stating it is a sealed unit and the do not touch it.
Is this a software issue (i highly doubt it) as i did a tb reset and it made it a bit better. i am at a loss with this car it is costing me a fortune. One last thing i had the prnd letters light up solid one time a while ago upon starting but it only did it once and never did it again. I am pretty sure this says there is a fault if i am not correct.
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I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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Two weeks into an 09 CPO Tiguan and I have a question about a clunk sound. I hear it (and kind of feel it under my feet) if I pull off the gas after a burst of acceleration. Kind of a muted clunk -- not too bad -- from underneath the floorboard, right as the car is getting back to its equilibrium position. Doesn't affect the driving, so my gut says not transmission (auto).
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My 2009 CTS Caddy with a 3.6L, 156,612K miles, AWD has been steering hard for a few weeks. Its very difficult to to steer at low speeds, like parking. At highway speeds its ok. Its not making any noise and the fluid level is where it should be. It is hard to steer at low speeds if the cars is hot and when its cold after just starting car. My question is, how to I determine if its the pump or rack or something connected with the speed sensative steering without going to the dealer.
I was at the dealer for routine maintenance Friday and he didn't have time to look at it but said a rack and a pump, he didn't even mention if there could be something wrong with the speed sensitive doohickey. Which leads to my second question, can my normal mechanic, who I believe to be quite capable, be trusted to replace the pump or rack or is this a job that the dealer would be more suited doing. If can bring it to my mechanic I can always buy the parts myself and he can install it. Thats why I would like to figure out exactly which part is bad before I go to him.
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I have a 2011 Super Crew, 5.0, 4x2. I've been told this hard shift at low RPM and speed like idling through a parking lot is normal? We bought the truck used a few months ago and I've been told this is normal.
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I just replaced computer brain and finally it works and 6 miles later same symptoms again. Its unreliable, will start wont drive, drive and quit and wont start. I replaced : cps emc ecm coil packs sparkplug wires sparkplugs pvc valve inline fuel filter
I have tried anything someone says.....like loose or bad gas cap can let water in your fuel. if thats true or not I put heat in to dry up any water problem put premium fuel in my truck. Changed the oil ever 3 thousand miles. Its my work truck never took it out in the woods and abused it never raced any cars with it. Just babied it and tried to get as much mileage out of her as possible.
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Was driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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Motor has a whining when driving then van quits, after a couple minutes can restart and drive.
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My mom drives 2012 tiguan. Somehow she engaged parking brake and didn't know how to disengage. So she put the car in drive and pressed gas pedal tiny bit. It seems this did disengage the parking brake but she feels like car started to make more noise. Is she just paranoid?
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I got my 2011 Tiguan today but the manual is being shipped up so I don't have it yet. I got it home (I love it), and I stopped at my mailbox and engaged the parking brake. I had engaged it before and only had to let up the clutch and it would disengage. This time it stalled. I started it again. Pushed the parking brake button down. It would not release. Pulled it up. It would not release. Simultaneously pulled it up and put my foot on the brake, and it released. I know it's gotta be easier than this, but I don't know the trick yet I guess.
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Just like the title says, I have a 2013 Tiguan. When I park and turn off the Tiguan, I will hear the the parking brake activate and then turn it back off immediately. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen.
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2013 Tiguan SEL
Battery is dead and electronic parking brake is engaged. Hooked up a battery jumper and still am unable to release the brake. Is there a mechanical workaround to disengage the electronic parking brake?Need to be able to get the Tiguan out of my garage in order for a tow truck to take it to the dealer to address an overall electrical issue that is cause the car to lose power... hence the dead battery.
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My 2012 Tuguan has, of course, the electric parking brake. It is very refreshing to have a car with a parking brake that actually works. I'm a believer in actually using them.... unlike my wife who just doesn't see the point. And I use it a lot, like for long waits in traffic..... it's so easy.
Anyway, I am wondering how it works. I took a quick look underneath, looking for a motor operated cable that might be working on a secondary drum, but didn't see anything like this. To be honest, I have never seen parking brakes work directly on a disc. I thought it might be possible that there is an electric hydraulic pump that closes the calipers, but this would require some fairly complex valving to prevent back pressure on the master cylinder. How it works. I can hear what sounds like a motor(s) running for a couple of seconds when I raise the little paddle.
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My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
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I recently had the rear pads replaced on my 2010 Tig after about 39k miles by my local mechanic (won't do that again). Not soon after I received the warning light that indicated a parking brake error but had no issue using the brake. Took it to the dealer for the 40k service and they checked the brake. Couldn't find anything wrong with it after diagnostics but they did reset it. Service Mgr said I may get the error again and they would have to look into it further (possibly the switch??). Received the error again today.
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I just noticed yesterday when I used the electronic Parking Brake. When I engaged the Electronic Parking brake, the DRL Indicator (light) on the dash went off. I did not go outside of the vehicle to see if they actually turned off (the vehicle was still running). Is that normal?
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New sound today: a click that simultaneously happened when the parking light (a yellow light with a P) came on the dash as I applied my brakes. i had already put the car in park but not yet applied the electronic parking brake.
I found it odd as i had my hand on the gear selector and felt a slight tap. So while the car was still on and in park with no electronic parking brake applied, i let go of the brakes and the yellow P light went off. so i applied the brakes again, the click sound and tap feel from the gear selector and the yellow P light came back on the dash.
Never had that happen before. Applied the electronic parking brake and that little light came on as normal on its button. that's when i normally see the yellow P light up on the dash. I always use the electronic parking brake so i am not sure what page 205 in the manual is referring to when stated:
If the electronic parking brake has not been used for a while, an automatic system check will occasionally run while the vehicle is parked. this system check makes audible noises.
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