Tiguan :: 2009 - Intermittent Start / Engine Shuts Off
Jun 12, 2010
I've got an intermittent issue with a 2009 Tiguan. Sometimes when starting (engine either warm or cold) almost as soon as letting go of the key, the engine will shut off. Multiple attempts to get it started result in the same issue, then for some reason it will start and run. There does not seem to be a pattern as to when it doesn't start.
The first time the dealer replaced the fuel pump control module, then when it happened again they said it was the fuel filter. It has now happened a third time.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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Got Tiguan 2011 46000 miles on it. Just serviced intermittent no start and occasional stall after start.
Dealer replaced High pressure fuel pump and fuel pump control module. So far so good.
Seams like common issue.
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We've had this 2009 SE with the 3.3 since brand new, and have had the engine shut off/lose power out of the blue while driving 4 times over the years.
Each time we were able to pull off the road, shut off the ignition, then restart and have it work normally but the odd thing is that there hasn't been any codes or CEL on etc. so when we take it to the dealership they run diagnostics, and say "no codes, no problem" which is beyond frustrating.
How to get to the bottom of what's causing this?
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Recently picked up a 2009 Tiguan with 150.0k kms. I had my shop swap out the old spark plugs shortly after purchase along with oil change and quick go through. Shortly after I had the CEL come on with a read on the #2 injector. Through this time the CEL would come on/stay lit, the car would run rough after start and I could smell gas.
So back to the shop. I swapped out a coil to ensure it wasn't a coil issue with the same result, CEL on injector #2. I had a new injector put in on number #2 along with the new seal received when purchased. While running much more smooth now, I again have the CEL back on again on injector #2. This morning at start up the CEL came on and flashed this time a few times before staying lit. (misfire?).
I've read that it could actually be another injector which is causing #2 to fault but how do I determine which and if this is actually it?
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I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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A few minutes into a summer's evening drive, the engine shuts off and will not start. We've determined that there is fuel to the fuel injectors and they are clicking. There is a strong spark coming from the distributor. When there is fire, from cranking the motor, it results in a backfire in the intake manifold. As for the OBD, it's a 16 pin connector that when I shorted pins 5 and 6 (top-right pins) with a paper clip, gave all code 12s (not sure if it's OBDI or II)....
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Today when my 2009 Tig hit 120k mark, the engine starting to shutter almost like the engine was not getting enough fuel or something. The engine never did stall and the shuttering began to start intermittently. I've read on other threads regarding Carbon Buildup on the injectors.
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One morning my 09' Elantra didn't start. It sounded like it was only the starter running. I checked the spark and there wasn't any. I checked the fuel injector pulse and got nothing. Occasionally I could get it to start just by trying a bunch of times but never more then once in a row (or day for that matter).
I decided to replace the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The first time it took a bit but started up and ran nicely, till i turned it off. Now I'm back to a no start car and again with no spark or fuel injector pulse. It does feel like it's trying to turn over just a little bit now that i replaced the sensor.
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I bought my daughter a Tiguan late last year, new 2012 model and since she has had it she has been having a serious problem. Whilst driving it randomly just shuts off and you have to restart it. AS you can expect this is extremely dangerous! Have had it back to the dealer now on two occasions and they cant find anything wrong, nor is their any error codes produced in the ECU.
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While I am driving my Passat randomly shuts off and then will not start for 5 min - a few hours. No beeps or warnings, the car just shuts off. When I try to restart it, everything sounds normal, the engine turns over fine, but it just wont start.
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1997 Volvo 850 Engine Problem? My customer question is, during the times my customer drive, When my customer start the car & when my customer put it on drive, the engine shuts off. My customer was wondering what was the issue of the problem , ALLDATA 10.53 & what's causing it to happen.
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Ok so I have a 09 tiguan S that stalled yesterday while driving only a few short min. My wife had been driving home about 4 miles when she got home I could hear a faint squealing noise as she pulled up. I left right after and assumed it was the the ac belts it that exist, so to verify that I turned off the ac and the sound did fade. I drove with it off for a few min then turned it on again the car acted normal and cooled just fine then about 5 min later I pulled into a lot and while waiting for others to move the engine stalled and I had the engine light, epc and battery lights showing. Now it was something like 110 outside and I thought overheated but the temp gauge showed normal and I received no warnings. I smelled a burned rubber smell and I recall seeing a small puff of smoke. I could not locate anything that could have burned out. The only thing I could see that was unusual was what looked like buildup on the air intake tubes.
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My 2009 Silverado 1500 with only 12,000 miles has begun intermittent display of all warning lights that are normally seen at start up. They stay on for 2-3 seconds and all gauges drop to -0-. When the warning lights go off, the gauges return to normal. It is not as prevalent after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
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6 weeks ago my 2012 Tiguan, that I had only had for 7 months) was hit. I was sitting at a light and rear ended. Has been in shop getting the almost 10K damaged fixed while I drove a rental. Most of damage was to the rear drivers side and underneath as it messed up tire and all connected parts underneath. Body man was excellent and ordered all new parts and it looks perfect with no alignment issues, (which I was most worried about). I was so happy to get my Tiguan back home but it was short lived. Drove home, about 70 miles, then another 60 during the day and all was find except a little noise under the hood.
This noise is pretty normal as the Tiguan is somewhat loud going up hill and such. Later that evening we go in to leave and it wouldn't start. Just turns over and clicks/grinds somewhat, loudly then shuts down. Hasn't started in 2 days now. Right before we parked it the check engine light came on and the fuel was a bit low, but not empty. We added more gas, checked oil, etc. Three lights come one when you try to start it, battery, engine, and EPC. We have used a scanner and received codes for POO16 Crank Shaft Position/CAm Shaft position correlation/bank 1 sensor A. Not sure what to do at this point because it could be several different things and the nearest dealer is 75 miles away.
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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I recently purchased a new 2015 toyota camry XLE v6 and i love it! HOWEVER the remote start feature i have a problem with. I use the Keyfob that came with the car but i just have to press the lock button twice and hold the third time to remotely start the engine. when start the engine with the remote and it starts normally, when i put my hand on the door handle it unlocks normally but when i open the door the engine shuts off and i have to restart the engine when i get in.
No other car i know does this and its annoying. Did they not install it properly? Or can I have it programmed to not shut off the engine when i open the door and just press the start stop button when I get in like any other car. I got an excuse from the dealership that its a security feature on the car but you cant unlock the door without the keyfob being close anyway.
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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There is no problem starting the car- it always turns over immediately, but every 1 out of 7 - 10 cold starts includes a strange noise from the engine compartment. Just as I let go from the crank position, I hear a sound similar to that of playing cards being shuffled. The duration of the noise is just a second or two, just like the time it takes to shuffle once.
It never has happened when the car is still warm. I had the Toyota dealer look at it, but they couldn't reproduce the noise- not surprising, since I didn't leave the car overnight, and even if I had, it still would be unlikely to happen when needed. The noise has been happening for a year or so, and it doesn't seem to increase or decrease in frequency due to air temperature or weather.
I did have a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals last summer and had starting problems then, and had the mechanic clean the terminals and check the battery, and the battery was fine, yet the sound continues, but no further starting issues. What might be going on?
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I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
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