Today when my 2009 Tig hit 120k mark, the engine starting to shutter almost like the engine was not getting enough fuel or something. The engine never did stall and the shuttering began to start intermittently. I've read on other threads regarding Carbon Buildup on the injectors.
View 4 RepliesI've got an intermittent issue with a 2009 Tiguan. Sometimes when starting (engine either warm or cold) almost as soon as letting go of the key, the engine will shut off. Multiple attempts to get it started result in the same issue, then for some reason it will start and run. There does not seem to be a pattern as to when it doesn't start.
The first time the dealer replaced the fuel pump control module, then when it happened again they said it was the fuel filter. It has now happened a third time.
Hate to make a question like this my first post here, but anyway. Just got an '11, 5L, Scab, only have 350 miles on it and absolutely love this thing. Since I've never driven any other '11 F-150 I'm not sure if what I am feeling is normal or not for these trucks. With a light foot, driving around town my truck feels like it has a very slight shutter just before the 2-3 up shift or between 20-25 mph.
I have felt it in the 1-2 up shift but it appears to be intermittent but almost 80% of the time. Had a cup with ice-water in the cup-holder and exactly between 20-25 mph on the 2-3 up shift the water in the glass slightly ripples and caused the ice to slightly chatter. Is this normal or should I take it back and have Ford look at it?
Oh forgot to mention if I give the truck more aggressive throttle pressure I can't feel it, only seems to be low speeds, such as driving through a neighborhood or parking lot. I hoping it just needs to be broken in yet.
I have a 2012 4x4 f150 163" wheelbase 8' bed that vibrates/shutter when you take off you fell it more when you are on an incline and a WHOLE lot more when you have a load on the truck (trailer/load of fire wood).
View 3 RepliesWell I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
Ok so I have a 09 tiguan S that stalled yesterday while driving only a few short min. My wife had been driving home about 4 miles when she got home I could hear a faint squealing noise as she pulled up. I left right after and assumed it was the the ac belts it that exist, so to verify that I turned off the ac and the sound did fade. I drove with it off for a few min then turned it on again the car acted normal and cooled just fine then about 5 min later I pulled into a lot and while waiting for others to move the engine stalled and I had the engine light, epc and battery lights showing. Now it was something like 110 outside and I thought overheated but the temp gauge showed normal and I received no warnings. I smelled a burned rubber smell and I recall seeing a small puff of smoke. I could not locate anything that could have burned out. The only thing I could see that was unusual was what looked like buildup on the air intake tubes.
View 5 RepliesOn my '11 5.0L I've noticed at light to mid throttle if I get into 5 or 6 with the rpms down near 1k or so it will have a light but noticeable to me shudder type sensation. At first I thought maybe it was a converter lockup effect or possibly road noise but the more I drive the more I notice it. Very indistinct and mild with no check engine light and mileage was 17mpg mixed so I'm pretty convinced its not an engine shutter- but I have no experiencing dealing with these coyotes yet...
View 4 RepliesOn my early 90's Corolla, when I turn the key to "on" but don't start the engine, the fuel gauge will -- for example -- read 1/4 full. It will stay at 1/4 indefinitely as long as the engine isn't running. Then when I start the engine and drive the car for a few minutes, I notice the gauge has gone up, so it will be reading 3/8 full within 5 minutes of driving. And I don't have to be moving, once it gets to 3/8, it says at 3/8 whether moving or idling at a stoplight. It has always done this, even since the car was new. It's not a problem, but I've always been curious what causes the fuel guaue to rise like this.
View 9 RepliesMy 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
There is no problem starting the car- it always turns over immediately, but every 1 out of 7 - 10 cold starts includes a strange noise from the engine compartment. Just as I let go from the crank position, I hear a sound similar to that of playing cards being shuffled. The duration of the noise is just a second or two, just like the time it takes to shuffle once.
It never has happened when the car is still warm. I had the Toyota dealer look at it, but they couldn't reproduce the noise- not surprising, since I didn't leave the car overnight, and even if I had, it still would be unlikely to happen when needed. The noise has been happening for a year or so, and it doesn't seem to increase or decrease in frequency due to air temperature or weather.
I did have a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals last summer and had starting problems then, and had the mechanic clean the terminals and check the battery, and the battery was fine, yet the sound continues, but no further starting issues. What might be going on?
I have a 2009 Corolla with 48,000 miles. Yesterday night, the check engine and vsc off lights came on. By the way, a gasket is starting to leak (probably unrelated to the lights).
How urgent are the lights? Can I wait to get the car into an independent dealer next Tuesday?
My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
I'm not sure what is the correct term to describe the engine behavior. Maybe backfire, knocking, but it doesn't sound like the youtube videos I see online. I just know that under certain conditions, the engine shutters with an exploding feel to it like it needed to "pass some gas" for a human.
This happens when braking quickly from high speed to slow speed or a quick stop. Also happens when accelerating then stopping a bit and resuming acceleration (an interrupted acceleration as rush hour traffic not allow for a nice acceleration - you know how people stop and go speeding up then having to break and repeat, affecting you and when you misgauge the best optimal acceleration speed, you have to stop acceleration a bit then resume).
I drive automatic transmission. Are many auto tranny cars affected by this type of thing? I seem to notice it with the cars I've driven. Or maybe I drive crappy cars. I think I noticed it once in a friends manual shift car. This expected normal behavior of cars?
Car drives fine except for the mentioned behavior for the drastic speed changes. The car is a 2006 Suzuki Forenza, automatic transmission. Currently 80k miles.
Having issues with 2009 Honda Odyssey. I'll describe, but I can't be certain these things are related.This morning, battery was dead for no apparent reason. No lights were left on, etc. Battery is brand new.After jump-starting, car ran fine for a few moments, then starting making loud intermittent "buzz" sound from engine/radiator area, down inside maybe on the left side of the radiator. There was also smoke rising from the engine.
I don't know much about cars, unfortunately, but cursory research suggests it might have something to do with the AC system.
I have attached a MOV which captures the sound it was making.
2001 Regal GS Supercharged 3.8 with 120K
After a normal start, about 30 seconds later, the engine starts to shutter with RPM dropping low and surging. If I do not play with gas pedal will ultimately stall. Once it is past its fit, which lasts about a minute, maybe a little more, the engine then runs and performs fine until the next start. This happens with a cold or hot engine. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter. Still have the issue. All battery connections, grounds, etc. are good. No check engine light.
When it starts to shutter it is significant. Reminds me of trying to start a cold piston aircraft engine on a cold day after a couple shots of primer and goosing the throttle.
2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
View 5 Repliesi have a 1999 F-150 2x4 witha 5.4 liter v-8 with 151,000 miles. Last week the truck began to run rough when i accelerated (ideled fine)and felt like it wasn't fireing on all cylinders and was puffing white smoke. A few minutes later the battery light came on and the truck lost all power and shut off. I replaced the battery and alternator and everything ran fine for a week. Now the issues have come back but i'm not sure the alternator and batter have gone bad again. What could be going on? Have the coils gone bad?
View 1 RepliesRelatively new 2016 Prius Four with all the boxes checked was working just fine this morning. At the end of the work day I got in the car to drive home and I got a warning - 'Grille Shutter Inoperative Visit Your Dealer' - accompanied by a check engine light.
Since I'm a little over 200 miles from a dealership I'm in a bit of a spot. They have a local shop that they contract with but they can't get me in until Thursday.
i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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