Tiguan :: 2009 - Auto Lighting Turned On At Daytime
Feb 13, 2013
Recently I found that the auto lighting (dashboard light) is acting weird. Sometimes in the middle of the day, the dashboard will be lighted up (I'm not going under a tunnel, or it's not dark outside). It has happened a couple times, but the dealership said they didn't find any problem.
This is on my 09 Tiguan. There are many other users with a 2010+ Tiguan and the lighting system is very different.
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I have been noticing over the past couple of weeks that my headlights are on in the middle of the day. It is bright outside and the headlights are on. I have the switch in the Auto setting and have turned the DRL's off and enabled the rain sensor. Could it be the light/rain sensor?? Or maybe the light switch??
2013 Passat TDI SEL
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Last night we went to look at some Christmas lights in a drive through park. There was a sign in the beginning of the park that said "Headlights off please." This seems to be impossible on the Touareg. I turned the headlight switch to off but the daytime running lights stayed on. After calling my salesman at VW, he asked many service techs how to do this and they have never been approached with such a question. They were stumped. The salesman told me that I can shut the daytime running lights off by depressing the emergency brake but that doesn't even work. The lights still remain on. Is there a way to shut the headlights off?
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Swap out the LED dome lights in a 2012 Camry SE? I'm considering switching the bulbs out from the yellow tone stock lighting to the white lighting LED bulbs. I am also considering floor lighting that can be activated with the dome light switch and/or with the doors opening. The issue I'm having is that I would like them to be hooked up to the same switch that the stock lights are set up with. (So I can use the dimmer switch for lighting). Where I would be able to tap into the wiring for this? Is there a DIY thread somewhere?
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I recently purchased a 2009 Corolla LE. I noticed that at night, my radio does NOT light up. However, when the car is in the 'on' or during the day, the radio screen is lit. I just know this can't be right. Is there something I can do to fix this backward problem? Or do I need to take it in?
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2009 Lexus GS350 ... My interior lighting sucks on this car. There is LED lighting currently installed into the car but its not very bright. Also, there is no dome lighting other than what is in the back seat so when it gets dark out at night it gets very tough to see.
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The LED Daytime Running Lights are at maximum brightness when the headlights aren't on. When I turn on my headlights, the LED Daytime Running Lights dim down drastically. Is there a way to make the LED Daytime Running Lights not dim down when I turn my headlights on?
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Just bought a new 2010 VW Tiguan SE. We love it, however had a question regarding the automatic headlights feature. It looks like in the owner's manual there is an option for "Auto" between the OFF and headlights ON (which also illuminate the dash controls). However, I don't see "Auto" on my car! Strange.
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I'm having a few issues I have 2010 corolla le.
For some reason when my daytime running lights are on my rpms drop to 600 rpms and I get a rough idle. My needle jumps up and down. Happens when car is warmed up. Once I turn my low beam on rpms go up to normal 800 rpms. No rough idle and car runs normal.
Yesterday I was parked with radio on ignition off for about 10 15 min and turned the car on and idle went really low. I Rev it up and the needle dropped to the bottom before going up. Hesitating. Did the same a 2nd time needle dropped all the way down and car shut off. I shut the car off and turned it back on and car was hesitating. Then after a few revs car was normal.
Car is running fine now no light on my dash.
Is it a throttle body problem? I cleaned throttle plate recently it's not dirty.
I'm wondering if I should replace throttle body?
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I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
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I've just acquired a 2015 Tiguan TSI.
I'd like to turn the auto locking 'feature' off. By this I mean the doors locking at 7MPH.
I'm a long-time VAG-COM user, and have performed this operation on a couple of previous vehicles, but the Central Locking controller isn't accessible on this car.
VCDS reports 'no response from controller' after three attempts.
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2010 SE 4Motion: My Tiguan's tranny seems to clunk pretty bad when coming to a stop. Wasn't a problem until after I got flashed to APR stage 1 so it may still be adapting, but I'm not sure.
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New sound today: a click that simultaneously happened when the parking light (a yellow light with a P) came on the dash as I applied my brakes. i had already put the car in park but not yet applied the electronic parking brake.
I found it odd as i had my hand on the gear selector and felt a slight tap. So while the car was still on and in park with no electronic parking brake applied, i let go of the brakes and the yellow P light went off. so i applied the brakes again, the click sound and tap feel from the gear selector and the yellow P light came back on the dash.
Never had that happen before. Applied the electronic parking brake and that little light came on as normal on its button. that's when i normally see the yellow P light up on the dash. I always use the electronic parking brake so i am not sure what page 205 in the manual is referring to when stated:
If the electronic parking brake has not been used for a while, an automatic system check will occasionally run while the vehicle is parked. this system check makes audible noises.
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I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
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I have an 08 LS460 and set my lights to auto.
I have noticed recently, two times I have turned the car off and the lights stay on.
One time was in the garage and I never lock the doors while parking it in my garage.
They were on for 15 mins after I turned off the car.
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Is there a way to prevent the radio from shutting off when ignition is turned off? I would prefer if it shut off when the keys are removed. The book is not so friendly as far as finding this kind of information.
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So, driving home from the meet & greet in DC yesterday and when I turned on the headlights, the auto-leveling light came on. It randomly came and went for a bit but was on continuously by the time we got home. Headlights work and are at the correct height. Lights cycle up/down when the key is turned. Other than the warning light, it appears to be working normally.
Of note, this was the first time using the lights after the airbag actuator recall last week. Not sure how it could be connected unless it is a dash connection issue. If not,how to isolate if or which sensor is causing the issue?
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Went to see a movie, Vehicle was running fine. Then, on the drive home I noticed there was no turbo boost at all. Was a struggle trying to pass someone going 10km faster than me. Got home, Reverse the Vehicle into my parking spot then the engine died. Car wont start now. Sounds and feels like the fuel pump went, turns over, a mere whisper of the engine trying to get going, but never does. Plugged it in, getting misfire codes. Checked the Diverter valve and seems to be fine, checking the front PVC Valve tomorrow. Its just really strange how the turbo wasn't functioning at all, but the vehicle ran all the way home, Then died when i backed it in my spot. and now wont start. Its throwing me off, All i can think of is Coil Packs, spark plugs, Diverter Valve, PVC valve. 2010 Tiguan 2.0t.....
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After reading the book, I'm afraid I still don't understand. When the hubs are in AUTO, & the shift on the fly selector is turned to 4X4 high, or 4X4 low, is the truck in 4 wheel drive. What happened to free or lock.
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I have a VW Tiguan w/ auto lights. I was just wondering if there is a way to have the fog lights turn on with the auto lights function.
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2009 Camry SE 2.4L. I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard. At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road (was stopped in gear) I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs.
I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again. Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway.
For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal. The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related?
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