Tiguan :: 2007 - Brakes Have Non-linear Feel - Squeal A Little Bit?
May 5, 2012
I just purchased a used 2009 tiguan with 70k KM on it and I love it. thou the brake feels a little odd and I am not sure if this is normal. the brakes have a non-linear feel to it, and it squeals a little bit at very low speed.
the brake have a step feel to it. it feels like the first 1/3 or half is really not doing much, while at a certain point it brakes hard. when I am slowly releasing the brake when trying to move very slowly, it won't move at first, then all of a sudden it kind of jumps.
is this normal? or do I need to get something checked out?
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So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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When car is standing on d, I feel like I need to press brake pad with good amount of foot force to keep it parked. If I loose tension a bit then it feels like car will go forward.
When lexus inspected a month ago they said pad was little slim but brake actuator was fine. But brake does feel squishy when parked.
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The brakes on my Equinox squeal badly when I back up but don't seem to squeal at all otherwise. It's driving me crazy...and probably my neighbors, too, whenever I back out of my driveway.
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I just installed new brake pads in my 2WD 2009 Santa Fe. I bought the cheapest AutoZone pads. Now I have a loud squeal sound when I apply the brakes. If I apply a hard brake the squeal goes away. Until I apply the brakes again. Now, after install...I have been researching and noticed that the stock pads are ceramic. I did apply (Not once but twice) break grease on the pads. What the problem might be? Oh yeah, I did see that after 2007, oiling the caliper springs is required and might be the problem too. But I do not know where the spring in question is and how to oil it.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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Yesterday I was on the highway - dry surface, a little bit of wind, but not much. While driving I kept feeling *kind of* like the Tiguan was getting pushed around by the wind, but not really. I looked at the trees, at the other cars and trucks on the road and none of them seemed to be moving around like me.
It was "kind of" like getting pushed by the wind - but actually more like the car was "crabbing" ... like the wheels were not spinning at the same speed. Very similar to the way it feels on snow/slippery conditions when traction control kicks in and straigtens out the Tiguan. It was like the front was fighting the rear and the car was twisting.
I chalked it up to being windy, although I've been in the Tiguan before in windy conditions and this was not the same.
Then today, I was leaving Home Depot. I closed the door, started the Tiguan, foot on brake and put the car in drive. Then immediately I had 4 tap-tap-tap-tap. Very much like if someone was pulling into the spot behind me and tapped me with their bumper.
I spun around in the seat and no one was in the car behind me, plus I have the trailer hitch in, so it would be a different feeling.
hhmmm ... very odd. I put the car back in park, back to drive and no tap.
Now I am curious. I turn the car off, wait a second, start the car again, back to drive, and sure enough another tap.
This is not the engagement of the transmission, this is a harder tap that happens after the transmission engages.
Tried it another couple of times and can replicate it.
I have to drive by the exit where my VW dealer is to get back home, so I stop by *HOPING* that I could replicate it again to the service manager, and sure enough - close the door, start the Tiguan, foot on brake and put the car in drive. Transmission engages, then immediately tap-tap-tap-tap
"hhmm that's not right he says". It was too late to get it into the shop tonight, but I left it overnight. Given my odd driving experience yesterday and the tap-tap-tap today, he was not sure if it was a safety issue with continuing to drive it.
This is a 2012 Tiguan SE 4 motion
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I have noticed that the throttle is a bit light...meaning that the resistance bringing the throttle back to idle is too soft. Two issues as a result. Unexpected..faster acceleration from a stop and my leg tires a bit in town keeping speeds in the 30-45 range. Assume there is no retro fit and/no adjustment. It's rather odd in that just about everything else on the vehicle seems well thought out and executed. I could complain about the over boosted power brakes....or the brake squeel that the dealer can't/will not fix...but the throttle is really getting on my nerves.
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New sound today: a click that simultaneously happened when the parking light (a yellow light with a P) came on the dash as I applied my brakes. i had already put the car in park but not yet applied the electronic parking brake.
I found it odd as i had my hand on the gear selector and felt a slight tap. So while the car was still on and in park with no electronic parking brake applied, i let go of the brakes and the yellow P light went off. so i applied the brakes again, the click sound and tap feel from the gear selector and the yellow P light came back on the dash.
Never had that happen before. Applied the electronic parking brake and that little light came on as normal on its button. that's when i normally see the yellow P light up on the dash. I always use the electronic parking brake so i am not sure what page 205 in the manual is referring to when stated:
If the electronic parking brake has not been used for a while, an automatic system check will occasionally run while the vehicle is parked. this system check makes audible noises.
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Well, the Tig has developed brake squeal when we're backing out of the garage first thing in the morning. I notice it even more when it is humid outside (I live along the coast in Texas....when is it NOT humid outside?). Anyway, took the Tig in for the 10k mile checkup and oil change (I'm at 9500 miles right now), and I had a small list of things for the service tech to check out. The brakes was one of them. They came back and said that the squealing brakes is just a fact of life with VW. I told him, that was funny, that my 2003 Jetta never had a brake squeal, all the way up to 90k miles. He said that there was nothing they could do about it.
So, my question is.....does any TBS from VW that covers excessive brake squeal in the Tiguans? I thought for sure that they would at least offer to scuff up the pads or rotors, but he said it was normal because of the amount of dust generated by the pads. I also had the tech check oute that occasionally, in the first mile of driving the Tig, the brakes feel like I'm trying to stop a 2 ton truck old style, that is, they don't slow the Tig down until you're almost at the point of locking the wheels, and of course, they couldn't replicate the problem, so, no problem found.
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Second time my Tiggy is going back - first time I was told to speed up to 50 or 60 MPH and slam on the brakes and that appeared to work for a while, but now, I feel like the neighbors are going to file a noise complaint on my brakes!
There was mention of a TSB - just wanting to see how to be able to get that number and if there was any other solution, minus the replacement of pads as they have plenty of meat on them still.
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This is on my g/f's 04 silverado 2x2 started about a month ago. Light comes on after rolling a few feet and right after hearing the abs pump run for a second. Then the light pops on, but the brakes feel fine. Only thing I tried so far is to clean the ground wires under the drivers seat but it's still doing it. I know when my sensor(s) went bad on my 00 the abs pump would kick on when stopping! not fun at all, but like I said it stops fine, just the little pump hum then the light.
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I just recently replaced my radiator and cold air intake. right after I did and I drove it, my car was idling high at 1.5 and the brakes feel like they are going out. I am kind of confused as to how this is even related.
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My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
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Occasionally for the last year when in Reverse my Prius' brakes will feel hard as rock and will only depress an inch or so. I depress the brake and within a literal inch it's solid and will not depress any more. I can still use the brake and reverse it's just jerky and awkward because I only have an inch to work with.. it's like they lock up or something.
Well today same thing happened while in reverse but instead of the car actually reversing like normal when it has this hard brake problem it actually started rolling forwards while in reverse!! it was as if it was in neutral because touching the acceleration pedal did nothing.. which made me think of neutral cause it does the same thing, but the dash read reverse... all while I'm dealing with a hard brake. I have come to overlook it because I cannot mimic it and figured it was a possible regenerative/electric braking thing and seems fairly common among people here, but today was spooky because it rolled forward out of the blue..
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Wierd new noise from my brakes - No issue when I press the pedal, and they work just fine. However just as I'm about to come to a complete stop the brakes feel like the ABS starts kicking in. I can make it not stop by lightly pumping the brakes but this can't be right. What it could be. I just had CV boot replace if that could have done something.
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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My 98 Sunfire has a grab and release feel when applying brakes. Mechanic fixed this same problem March 2012. I was told it was warped rotors and brake pads. This worked great until four weeks ago when it started again. I find it hard to believe that rotors and pads would warp again after 7 months. Also the front brakes lock up real easy on wet surface such as a light rain. When they lock up I get a bad rattle sound under the dash. ABS light does not come on and never has. This happens all the time. Even after new pads and rotors were installed.
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