I have a 1995 ford thunderbird 3.8 l. I changed the heads according to a chilton book. The car ran well for approximately 2 weeks and all of a sudden it started Idling high. I turned the idle screw all the way off and no change.
View 7 Repliesmy 1995 tbird just sat for a year i replaced the battery but when trying it it clicked it actually clunked i replaced the starter put a jump on it still clunked when trying to turn it the surpentine belt did move inches at a time what else can i try?
View 7 RepliesI have a 92 Ford Thunderbird and it stalls every time I accelerate from a stop. I am a single parent and extremely low on funds. I don't have a mechanic that I trust so I don't know where to turn. How much do you think it would cost to repair? I also struggle when I don't have a car. There is no public transportation close to where I live.
View 1 RepliesTruck idles a little too fast? I don't even have to press on the accelerator to back-up and out of my driveway, and it's a little bit uphill. (2012 Screw, 4X4 Ecoboost, 3.73) It goes into the shop in the morning for the modification to the intercooer (I think?) and a reflash of the computer.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1991 S10 with a 4.3L V6 TBI that recently began having trouble cold starting, meaning that at a mere 40F I can crank it over and over and it will not catch. If I plug the block heater in for at least an hour, it usually will start, but at a very low, very rough idle. Once it has about 30 seconds or so to warm up, it will then idle TOO FAST at 1500 rpm, and stay that way for the first few miles of driving, which makes it rather awkward to drive, being a 5-speed. Once its been driven awhile and fully warmed up, it runs normally. (I'm running a 180F t-stat.)
The IAC valve, block temp sensor, and TPS sensor, were all replaced last year, so I'd find it hard to believe that one of those could be the problem. I put Heet treatment (red bottle) in the fuel, changed fuel filter and reset the computer. (Although it's never given a trouble code.) The problem is still there.
My local mechanic says replace the ECM, but he hasn't actually diagnosed that as the problem, so I think he may just be taking a wild guess. (He hates OBD1 systems with a passion!).
1987 LeSabre v6 engine misses under load. It is a "hard" jolt, miss that happens under slight load weather warm or not. Engine also idles very fast on first start. Wondering if the problem is electrical or vacuum related (or both?). Do not think it is fuel related as pump and filter were replaced a while back. Vehicle has also stalled with difficult restart once in the past few days. Not showing any codes.
View 9 RepliesSo I have a 95 aerostar 3.0. I use it every day my a delivery vehicle. I keep it maintained. About a month that ago, it developed a skip or a hesitation, most!y at high speeds, usually under load. I thought it may be transmission but had it checked and was ok. I drove it like that for several weeks. Then got worse so I parked it for ten days until my mechanic was available. When I cranked it to drive it over, it spit and sputtered the whole way here and barely made it. It had never done that before. He changed plugs and wires and distributor cap, even though it had been less than a year since all that had been done. Still no change. Driving way worse after sitting for ten days.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 4X4. About 3 months ago I started to experience rough idle in the morning. It went a away for a month or so, but it is back now. I noticed that it occurs primarily after the vehicle has sat for long periods of time. More than 10 hours, give or take, and it happens, less than 10 and it generally doesn't. When the issue does occur it sometimes almost stalls. I can tell the computer attempts to make up for it usually. The check engine light came on originally but hasn't since, a mechanic could not pull any code and could not reproduce. The issue disappears within 3 to 5 minutes usually after everything seems to warm up. I'm had regular maintenance and I am an 75k. I've even tried using gas additives and tried a high grade of gasoline to no avail.
View 17 RepliesI now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
View 12 RepliesI have a 95 Mitsubishi diamante es 3.0 sohc auto trans. it idles rough i have replaced plugs wires cap rotor button air filter and fuel filter. checked the timming belt ok checked the fuel pressure it is 40 psi the book calls for 38 psi. if i rev it up to 2000 rpm's it smoothes out.
View 9 RepliesEvery time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
View 7 RepliesMy truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
I have a 1995 Buick Century with 149,000 miles that will occasional and randomly idle rough when started warm. Also, on several occasions it will idle so rough it kills the engine and I'm unable to start the engine until the thermostat reads completely cold. I've taken it to 2 separate mechanics who both are unable to pull any error codes (even after the engine has died) and are unable to duplicate the problem. When it does idle rough most of the time I can rev the engine, put it in gear and drive it for a few minutes and the problem disappears. Other times I try to put it into gear and it kills, I put it into park and try to restart the engine and the engine will start for a brief second and then die and will die faster each time I restart until the engine doesn't turn over at all. Then once the thermostat reaches 'C' it starts up like there was no problem at all.
Here is a list of recent pertinent repairs:
- Replaced Battery 12/2/11
- Replaced plugs and wires 4/11/12
- Throttle Body Gasket and Fuel Filter Replaced 3/18/13
- PCV Hose replaced 2/19/14 (last mechanic's guess on the problem)
I don't notice any signs of a rich fuel mixture or abnormal exhaust (there was a discussion with a Buick with no start that had this).
I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE 4cyl and it has been rough idling for a while now but now I have this new problem. While I drive the car and after it has warmed up, the car shuts off when I'm at a stop. When I'm at speed, it runs just fine and smooth and I only have problems at stops. I then restart the car just fine and continue driving. I'm having to keep doing this over and over. What could be the cause or causes for this?
View 4 RepliesMy 1995 LeSabre (3800 v6, 62K miles) has a stalling problem, no engine power, but still has electric. It happens randomly and intermittently. Most times it will restart but has been increasingly difficult to restart. The only indicator prior to stalling is the speedometer "surges" and then the loss of power. Dash lights come on (oil, voltage, CEL). Sometimes the CEL will flash in time with a fast clicking that I believe comes from the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. Until this clicking stops the engine will not restart. I have replaced ignition control module, and then the crank and cam sensors. Replaced PCM with rebuilt and it was worse (defective?) and put the old one back in. Mechanic can't find any codes to determine what is causing it to stall, except possibly PCM is bad.
View 11 RepliesWas having a hard time shifting fast from 1st to 2nd when accelerating hard, it was like something was blocking the 2nd gear gate, same thing sometimes when downshifing fast from 6th to 5th.
After JT recommending it here, I installed the Neuspeed torque arm insert. Used a scissor jack on the left front side (it has a wide base), got under the car from the front bumper passenger side. 21mm bolt was tight, but got it out with a regular length 1/2 inch socket bar. Insert was hard to get in (even after spraying silicone on it), finally just sprayed silicone into the existing bushing and the insert slipped right in.
First test drive really made it easy to shift from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration only a slight bump when entering the 2nd gear gate, downshifing was smooth too. Down side? none that I noticed, no vibration.
My 07 LE with the 2.5 has 151K on the odometer. It is an oil burner and now wants to stay on fast idle for an extended period of time. I live in the cold country so I know it will run fast at start up but it is alot longer then it used to be. It isn't working for the oil burning at all! Regarding the oil issue I tried running Pennzoil full synth and it drank it down like water! Is this a sensor problem if so which one would I look into changing.
View 4 RepliesWhat is it that is making a fast clicking sound in the back under the car every time i turn my key to on?? It last for maybe 5 minutes or so then goes off...Not a clue !!
View 4 RepliesKey has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
View 14 RepliesMy high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
View 3 RepliesI have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.