Thunderbird :: 1986 Won't Stay Running / Smell Of Gas
Aug 24, 2015
My Grandfathers Thunderbird has sat for 5 years. I need to get it running again. I can hear the fuel pump build pressure, replaced fuel filter. After cranking on it, eventually it will start. When it starts to die, I give it some more gas, RPMs increase but it doesnt run much longer. I do smell gas after it dies. After a couple times of this the battery has to be recharged. I hook it up to a jump at 55amp's and it will start once more and then die. Also, I did drain the fuel and put in half a tank of new gas and 1 - bottle of gas treatment.
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I have my car and it takes a few times to start but once its on it wont stay running if i let go of the key or the ignition cylinder ....
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My 1995 Ford Thunderbird has a problem when I turn it off. After turning it off and removing the key the gauges still stay on and the low fuel light come on even though there is a full tank. Every other time I turn the car off the heater fan turns on even though it is in the off position. I replaced the ignition switch and cylinder but it didn't make a difference. I'm thinking it might be the ECU but I don't want to just start replacing more and more things trying to find this out.
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After starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
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1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed
So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.
When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........
The problem now? Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.
Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Air Control Valve - Removed and cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.
Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (was told it's located on Pass. fender wall, but can't find it, according to the manual)
EGR Valve and sensor,
Throttle Position Sensor,
EVP sensor,
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic.
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My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has 60,000 careful miles on the odometer. It began stumbling, like running on 3 cylinders, when started cold. Time of day and moisture make no difference. New Cold Start and Air Flow Sensors have worked a little, but it still has the stumbles about half the time when started cold.
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What to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
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My engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.
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But here's too my question. I recently bought a 2wd Ford ranger 2.9 automatic. Bought not running. They said it wouldn't turn over that there was something wrong with the starter. I figured it was the neutral safety switch turned out it was there's a wire broke on it. I can get in there touch the wires together and it'll turn over. But I can't fix it because the shifting linkage is In the way. I'm wondering how too take it off. I've never worked on one before. And I don't wanna mess up my gears.
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Recently picked up a 2009 Tiguan with 150.0k kms. I had my shop swap out the old spark plugs shortly after purchase along with oil change and quick go through. Shortly after I had the CEL come on with a read on the #2 injector. Through this time the CEL would come on/stay lit, the car would run rough after start and I could smell gas.
So back to the shop. I swapped out a coil to ensure it wasn't a coil issue with the same result, CEL on injector #2. I had a new injector put in on number #2 along with the new seal received when purchased. While running much more smooth now, I again have the CEL back on again on injector #2. This morning at start up the CEL came on and flashed this time a few times before staying lit. (misfire?).
I've read that it could actually be another injector which is causing #2 to fault but how do I determine which and if this is actually it?
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My 2012 corolla has got about 7500 on it, and recently whenever I turn off the A/C, and keep it running on fan, it smells like old socks or really bad B.O. through the vents. Stays like this for about 5 minutes and goes away.
I heard of spraying Lysol through the air intakes, is it the one right below the windshield wipers? I know I should probably take out the cabin air filter and give that a thorough cleaning as well. Is there anything else I should do to eliminate the smell?It's getting to be pretty bad..
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I have a 1992 volvo 940 about a month ago I started noticing a burning smell and it was my brakes, they also make a squeaking sound and I took it to my mechanic upon which they will need to be replaced. Today I notice my battery,brake and system lights all came on and stayed on while I drove about 4 miles. Can something to do with my brakes needing repair?
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I have a 1995 Chevy 2500 with a 454 engine with 72K miles. The engine won't stay running (won't idle). There is fuel spraying into the throttle body. Not sure about the pattern being correct. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body the engine starts running fine for a short time(until the fluid is consumed). So, I'm assuming it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter is O.K. Don't know about the fuel pressure.
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My CR-V stalled out the other day 3 times. Then would not stay running. Now won't run at all. We have changed the Camshaft position sensors, spark plugs and air flow control valve. It has fuel pressure, spark, compression tests good and timing chains good. Running out of things to check.
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My car sometimes runs like a dream and then abruptly will lose power, act like it's not getting fuel, not respond to the accelerator and sputter and buck. My mechanic has rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned fuel filter, cleaned out tank, replaced hoses. He's familiar with Porsche engines and I know he's not blowing smoke up my nose, so to speak. He's tried everything he can think of. I never know when it's going to act up. It will run smoothly, I will drive it hard, drive it slow and easy, corner hard, not hard, and it sometimes stays happy, sometimes decides it doesn't want to run. It improves when clutch is pushed in, acts like it wants to respond, then after I let the clutch out and apply gas, it starts to buck and there's no power. Haven't been able to get it out of first when it does that.
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So our battery died and after getting it jumped the Jeep would not stay running. As long as I was giving it gas it would stay running. As soon as I stopped giving it gas it would die.
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My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
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Ok so I've got a 92 Cherokee that I have replaced the plugs wires cap and rotor, fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried the idle air control and the throttle position sensor and put a new alternator on it but it will run for a few seconds and then die. If I keep revving it up to bout 3 to 4000 rpm it will stay running if I keep pumping throttle. What else is there I can do? I'm baffled
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Drove the truck one week ago today and it ran perfectly fine. Drove it last night for about 20 minutes - ran fine. Drove it again today just 1 minute up the road - ran fine. Started it again this evening and drove it 5 minutes down the road - ran fine. Stopped and put gas in it - now it's not fine. After putting gas in it it refused to start but will turn over. Put a booster pack on it and it will start but would only stay running with the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor, as soon as you took it off it dies. Now it will not stay running even with the gas pushed all the way down.
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Came out of my house and my 04 Sante Fe will not stay running. It worked fine on the way home form work won't stay started now. You can give it gas and everything but it just dies out after a few moments. I checked most of the basics...
-Fuel pump runs when key is on
-Added gas, over 1/4 tank
-Checked engine fuses
-removed air filters and hoses
-removed mass air intake unit
-down to throttle body and such,
-to keep running by spraying gas directly into engine?
-removed fuel pump under seat
-checked mesh filter and connections
-clean no build up no visual problems with pump or filter
-checked cut off switch, not activated
-removed gas line from injector rail getting good "squirting" from rail
I have asked everyone and most think it is some kind of sensor but I have no light on and I have put it on the OBII and no error codes are found unless I un plug one of the many sensors, which i have done to a few to check them (air mass intake).
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So I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
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