Taurus :: Wheel Getting Hot - Tightening Bolts?
Jun 10, 2016
I just changed my brakes, first time i have done it. Everything went well, no more noise and everything. I lubed the caliper where needed and checked the Caliper Slide pins and they moved seamlessly and were well off. i used a toothbrush to clean off the junk and stuff as well, no water or anything. I aligned everything properly, or so i thought. I did have an issue with one bolt, the one circled in red.
When i got the bolt through the blue and into the red i tightened it a bit and then as i tried to keep tightening it, the part in red and ended up spinning with the bolt. It would not tighten until i took a screwdriver and put it in between the D shaped part, and where it was supposed to stay. But that is what happened. I ended up being able to tighten it and it stayed so i assumed it was all good. Could that have not tightened right? I read that the smell and heat could be caused because the caliper slide pins might not be lubed as well.
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The last 2 times I have taken my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan in for tire rotation, the service guy informed me that I had a broken bolt (one of the five) that holds the front wheel on. One time it was a left front wheel, next the right front wheel. They replaced the bolts and lug nuts. I told this to lots of people and no one has ever heard of wheel bolts breaking - on any car! I have rotated the tires regularly at other establishments and have never had this problem. My question: Is this unusual? A known problem with Dodges. Am I being "taken for a ride" by the dealer?
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I am trying to adjust the steering box since it is so sloppy. I know there is a set screw with a torque head on top of it but I can't get the nut to loosen. Is there any way to do this. I've drenched it with a product we use called Rusty which is a rust penitrant and a solvent. Works real well to get the rusted screws to loosen but this thing isn't budging!
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My 2000 ford Taurus which has 120,543 miles needs an outer tie rod end. I went to sts for an oil change and asked them about an alignment after I did the tie rod and they told me I need to change my struts. If I only change the front struts could I get an alignment or am I going to need to change the rear also? Also, i know I have to get new tires in the front because they are getting bad from the alignment being off so I would have to get tires also.
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I was wondering if there is any way to easily adjust the parking brake so it bites tighter. I took it to Lexus of Pohanka and they told me that it's normal in a Lexus car to have to press the parking brake all the way to the carpet to get it to engage. I immediately debunked this when I recieved a loaner and engaged the parking brake and it grabs a lot sooner.
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Where to find a nice, simple step by step instructional for tightening power steering belts for a 2003 hyundai accent?
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I have a 93 f250. Have a few inches of play in the wheel. Any way I can tighting this up?
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Fix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
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2004 Ford Taurus - transmission was going out last Aug - had it rebuilt (new seals and torque converter) got it back steering wheel was slightly off (1/2 inch) of being the center when driving straight. Took a while to get it back to the shop - life happens - took back today - said they did everything they could and really needs an alignment which they do not do - drove it home after hanging out at the shop for 5 hours. The steering wheel is now off 2 inches from center and the car is pulling noticeably to the right. Going back tomorrow - but they are saying that it was not them and that I need to pay for an alignment.
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My taurus makes this weird sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. It sounds like that cartoon "rubber being stretched" sound or maybe a little like plucking an overly tightened string. It doesn't affect driveability but I've been dealing with this for quite some time and I'm trying to sell it now... it's a major buyer turn off.
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I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
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2008 F-450 Crewcab .... The seatbelts in the back seat keep tightening up when driving. They cant be working right which makes them dangerous. Had the grandson turning red they were holding him in so tight and every bump they tighten a little more? Any way to set them up or anything?
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My 2002 Ford Taurus has 73,000 miles and was in good shape except for a small leak under driver's side. Has a new rack and pinion replaced one week ago. Have now noticed small leakage again. Also, when the steering wheel is turned it makes a clicking sound...almost like winding a clock. Rack and pinion replaced and alignment done. Why would it begin leaking again. This is a very comfortable car and has been maintained.
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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One thing I cant clear is how to fix the annoying door clicking. The one bolt behind plastic cover on body side isn't a torx 40 its a bolt/philips and its tight. My 2 bolts on door side dont seem to be getting tight. The doors still clik seems to be in join in middle of door arm.
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I've removed 3 bolts ( Headlight assembly removal)and loosened the number cover to be gridlocked by something I cannot see or just a bit more friction than the amount of force I'm willing to give for fear of breaking something.
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How to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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2007 Passat 2.0T, 48,000 miles
Essentially, I get a clunky/pop/crinkle sound from beneath my feet in the driver's side footwell. This sound/feel occurs when I either get back on the gas after slowing down but before the car fully stops or if I take my foot suddenly off the accelerator without touching the brake.
VW told me after three tries that the "noise is from the driveline changing directions, making some noise because loads are changing on the driveline when going from deceleration to acceleration" and that it was normal.
I have seen some posts about the subframe bolts either being faulty or worn on this site and other VW sites...
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So i folded down my seats today to try and fit a box in and i noticed that the two lower unibrace bolts were unscrewed about half way. When i put it in, those bolts were pretty tight. There is a little movement if i push down hard on the bar. Those dam nutserts dont seem to be a good long term option. I mean if one of them was loose then , but both are loose, and the tops are perfect. Im guessing because maybe the bottoms are taking most of the pressure.
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