Taurus :: Stalls While Braking
May 22, 2015
I didn't see this problem anywhere. this car feels like the whole engine just fell out for just a second. it doesn't really stall but you can feel that there are weird things going on with the shifting. I'm scared to say transmission. my sister had a car that did the same thing but when it was accelerating..not braking and it was the rear sensor. I don't understand sensors or how it could make an engine do that but I don't know anything about cars. we've checked all fluids and all are ok.
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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2003 Taurus, 3.0 duratec flex, 30K. While driving at various speeds the theft light flashes for a split second and the car starts to stall before resuming normal operation on its own. The rpms drop off, and power is lost for a split second. This is getting more frequent and happened five times during a 30 mile drive. The original Ford key is being used. My scan tool reveals no codes. I understand that there may be anti-theft codes that my scanner cannot read.
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i have an 03 ford taurus. recently i noticed a grinding sound when braking. My first thought was that i needed new brakes. I want to the mechanic, they did a courtesy inspection and found nothing wrong with them! the rotors are smooth with no grooves, the pads look almost brand new! the mechanic seemed baffled. when i bought the car the brakes that are on now. it's just recently that i have noticed the grinding sound. The mechanic ruled out other possible problems such as bad bearings and shocks...etc.. What could be the problem?
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This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
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My 2003 ford taurus SES randomly has problems with the speedometer fluctuating from 0 to 10 mph upon idling. Sometimes the car will eventually stall out but always restarts without a problem. You can feel it "jerk" when changing gears or what I describe as a "hesitation" once in awhile. The car is an automatic and we have already replaced the relay and the voltage regulator/alternator - that has not workeded. I can't afford to keep throwing money into it replacing parts that don't fix the problem. What could be wrong?
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I have this weird problem that the car suddenly stops running while on the road. It has happened 3 times in the past 14 months. Every time it happened, my speed was less than 10 mph in slow traffic. And it was after I had driven over 15 minutes on the highway without any signs of trouble. The check engine light and low engine oil light would come on while the stall happened. After the stall, the car would not start. But after 20 minutes or so, the car would start normally, and it would run without any problem for months.
I have brought the car to a mechanic to diagnose the problem. I was told that it might have been caused by a faulty exhaust valve. The valve was replaced 5 months ago, but the stall happened again earlier this week. About a month ago the starter died and I went to a different shop to replace it. I was told that the cover gasket was leaky but it should not cause noticeable problem. After the starter replacement, I also started to notice that the car would occasionally vibrate abnormally for about 30 seconds after starting. I am not sure whether this is related to the stalling problem.
I cannot tell whether it is an engine problem or an electrical problem that is causing the engine to stall.
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I havent had my 2000 taurus too long.... Last week a knocking noise started. It usually happens when I am turning but there have been a few times it does it when I am braking. It doesn't happen right away - just after I've been driving for at least 15 minutes or so....
I got this looked at last weekend at by a mechanic and they drove it and didnt hear a thing and supposedly things underneath looked okay. I can tell that things ARE NOT OKAY. Also, since this knocking started, my alignment seems to have gotten off a bit. I may be a blonde but I've had enough problems with past cars that I usually know what I'm talking about!!!!
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Our 2005 Ford Taurus makes a rhythmic clunk from the rear when you slow down. The rhythm seems to slow as you brake. The noise isn't there when you are cruising or accelerating, only when you slow down. We recently drove 2000 miles with a small trailer attached. Could that have anything to do with it?
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My 1997 town and country van stalls when I brake or idle otherwise it drives fine what could that be?
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I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I have a 2002 Ford Taurus with 219000+ on it. The las couple times that I have driven when the air temp was over 85 the temp gage moves to hot when the air is on. When I turn the air off the temp comes down. I have checked the fans and they are running. I also looked at the condenser and it seems to be clear. I have talked with some one and he suggested flushing the radiator.
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my taurus FFV motor does not have a fuel pressure regulator. it does have a fuel pressure sensor though. and a fuel blend sensor. the blend sensor is $450. my rich running issue went away when i started using a higher ethanol concentration. i slowly am going back to a E10 mix and my CEL has not come on yet. dont know why my issue went away with E50+ fuel mix.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx about 150000 miles.. When I start the car the rpm goes up then drops to like 300 rpm then goes back up then back down.. Now if I hold on to gas pedal the car runs fine then and I don't have any codes.....
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My wife car is a Ford Taurus 2006. I wonder is this a popular problem, or what can I check.
The Point is that the AC is on always, no matter what that ac is working and throwing cool air all the time.
Only when the Air flow selections switch is off, then ac will go off.
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I just changed my brakes, first time i have done it. Everything went well, no more noise and everything. I lubed the caliper where needed and checked the Caliper Slide pins and they moved seamlessly and were well off. i used a toothbrush to clean off the junk and stuff as well, no water or anything. I aligned everything properly, or so i thought. I did have an issue with one bolt, the one circled in red.
When i got the bolt through the blue and into the red i tightened it a bit and then as i tried to keep tightening it, the part in red and ended up spinning with the bolt. It would not tighten until i took a screwdriver and put it in between the D shaped part, and where it was supposed to stay. But that is what happened. I ended up being able to tighten it and it stayed so i assumed it was all good. Could that have not tightened right? I read that the smell and heat could be caused because the caliper slide pins might not be lubed as well.
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2001 DOHC AC all of a sudden started blowing warm air when on max AC, not regular cabin air but warm air as if it is on heater mode. It has automatic climate control. I checked the charge and low side is 30psi and high side about 130 psi. Pipes in engine bay are sweating so cooling is occurring. The compressor cycles once or twice when I first turn the car on then just runs continuously. I put some charge in but it didn't do anything so I didn't want to overcharge it. I was thinking maybe stuck blend door but how would I check for that.
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I am trying to change the alternator in my dohc but cant get it out, I am trying to remove the pulley on the crankshaft and cannot figure out how to remove it. How to get the alternator out???????
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'02 Taurus SES, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N, 140K miles.
The car drove normally the other day, but now the transmission won't shift into drive. Actually, I've been able to get it to shift to drive by easing back on the accelerator, but it will shift back to the next lower gear as soon as you attempt to get back on the gas.
I dropped the pan today to check for metal fragments and found nothing out of the ordinary, just the normal graphite-like sludge around the magnet, maybe about 1/16" or so thick. This leads me to believe that the transmission has not (as of yet) begun to consume itself.
The OBD II is throwing a code of 0750, which is SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION. Don't want to deceive myself in thinking this is something simple, but could this fix be as straightforward as going in and replacing the shift solenoid?
I did a little investigating (not sure if I came up with the correct info, though) and found some info regarding testing the solenoid coil resistance. Disconnected the trans harness and took some continuity readings between the pins. Here's what I was able to obtain.
PIN 2 to PIN 1 3.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 6 15.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 8 16.6ohms
If my test method is correct, these readings are showing that the coil associated with PIN 1 is weak.
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My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
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