I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
I am getting no pressure at the fuel rail. Relay seems to be ok, so I am assuming the pump just failed (in the driveway luckily). Before I drop the fuel tank, I would like to confirm I am getting voltage back to the pump. I cannot fine any wiring in or under the car going to that area! How to find that circuit as close to the pump as possible and still accessible without dropping the tank?
View 1 RepliesI picked up a Haynes manual for the engine/head removal. It has the procedure for 2003 pressure release by unplugging the fuel pump and running until it dies. Unfortunately the car does not run. I do not know what to do now.
View 8 RepliesA friend has a 1999 Caravan with the 3.0L engine. He couldn't get it to start and to make a long story short, I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and they were good but there was no pressure on the fuel rail. Turning the key I couldn't here the fuel pump come on and determined the fuel pump was bad.
I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter put in 1/4 tank of gas and turned the key, and it turned over but wouldn't start. I can audibly hear the fuel pump come on for a second or so, and feel the vibration when I put my hand on it, but there is still no pressure at the fuel rail.
I stopped and when I started the SF the engine light stayed on. I shut it off and checked oil. Oil good. When I started it again it didn't start as swiftly as it normally would. Since I still had 150km to go in the dark I decided to give it a whirl as the alternative, like waiting for a tow truck, would be many hours.
Max rpm, about 2000. Give more gas and it sputters. Eventually nursed it to maintain 80-100 kmh at the 2k rpm. Since it was mostly downhill I continued to at least get closer to civilization. Found sort of a sweet spot and was able to maintain 100kmh on level ground and lost some on grades. Engine was running smooth.
As it turned out I made it home. Total milage on SF: 58,250 km. Guess I'll see what the dealer says on Monday.
So I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Next mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
View 1 RepliesI need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
Several weeks ago I was smelling gasoline odor in the cabin, mainly when I came to a stop. Took the car to the dealership,and they found a leaking connector going to the fuel rail. They tightened it up, but this morning the odor is back.
View 5 RepliesWife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
Today, my 1995 E150 suddenly started acting like it was running out of fuel Lucky for me, this happened close to both a parts store and my usual mechanic's shop. Unluckily for me, it happened on Saturday, and my shop can't get to it until Thursday. So here I am, hoping to do a fix in the meantime.
At first, it seemed that it must have been the fuel pump, because I couldn't hear it come on when I turned on the ignition. Then, a guy who said he was a mechanic told me he could hear the pump cycling, and that my problem was the fuel pressure regulator. So he managed to start the vehicle after a few tries, then it crapped out again. He did this twice. Then he went away.
I called every parts store in town, and none of them had a fuel pressure regulator for my vehicle, and the earliest any of them could get one was Monday. But I knew I was due for a fuel filter, and I'd changed filters on this vehicle before, so I got one of those and put it in. To my delight, the van started right up and idled beautifully. In fact, it ran beautifully for about 15 minutes, until I came to a slight rise, then it crapped out again. It still started up and idled smoothly, and even revved up smoothly, until it reached a high idle speed, at which point it crapped out. I did manage to limp into the parking lot of my shop - which, again, can't get to it until Thursday.
So my question is: does this sound like a fuel pressure regulator to you? If so, is that a job which somebody with a reasonable mechanical aptitude (i.e., at least good enough to change the fuel filter) should be able to feel safe doing? If the answer to those two is "yes" (or even if it's "no")....
for the past week we have been trying to figure out what is wrong with our truck. We recently bought it and it ran fine. Then got in a minor accident just a fender bender and it started acting up so I got towed to garage. First it would run when cold, but when hot fuel pressure would drop to 28 psi.
So I put new fuel pump, it started but still did the same thing hot 28 psi fuel pressure shuts off. So I put regulator on it, then had 0 fuel pressure won't even start. So got a another regulator thinking I got a bad one, still 0. Checked relay, there fine. I'm gonna check lines and see where fuel stops at but everything is new on it.
I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
View 1 RepliesWorking on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
I had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
Yesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
View 6 RepliesI bought the truck now it won't start has to fuel at the fuel rail cranks but won't start when I spray starting fluid it starts but won't stay running....
View 1 Replies