The check engine light came on again after coming on about a week ago and then shutting of by itself. Everything seems to run normal with the car so I don't know if I should ignore the light and just keep driving or what. What would you do? My car is a 2011 Ford Taurus.
View 1 RepliesI changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 ford taurus. just changed the engine with a used engine has 130k, did tuneup changing all spark plugs, wires and distributor cap. Also changed the 02 sensor upstream. And the check engine light remains on. if i start the car and it idles the check engine light flashes. but once i drive it, it just remains on. brought to the mechanic and he put on the machine and it reads that the problem is the 02 sensor upstream and the spark plugs misfiring. my mechanic is lost not sure what the problem is. someone told me it could be the manifold gaskets and pedlum gasket.
View 1 RepliesI have an old 2000 Ford Taurus that has been having some misfire issues. I replaced the wires and plugs about a year ago and hooray! it worked... until about a month ago when the check engine light came one. Misfire in cylinders 1 and 3... again. I ran some SeaFoam through and it did okay until this week, when the warning/flashing check engine light came back.
It is idling very hard (expected) and feels like it is trying to stall, even before the misfire came back (also to be expected??). So here is the question: is this a coil pack issue, or something more sinister (and expensive)?
This car has been giving me quite a bit of trouble lately. 04 Ford Taurus SES, about 97,000 miles on it. Just last weekend, it broke down on the highway. Found out the torque converter failed and needed to be replaced. I was suspecting that something was wrong with the transmission for a while now, because it would stutter sometimes when accelerating, and sometimes start shaking in the front when I turned it on. (It still stutters after having the torque converter replaced.)
Well now, a day after shelling out quite a bit of money to the dealer for this torque converter, the check engine light is on. I went to Autozone to check the codes, and they found P0300, P0305 (cylinder misfire) and P0316 ("crank sensor condition"). Is it possible the transmission is failing?? I found a bunch of complaints online about the transmission failing on the 04 Taurus. I'm trying to avoid more expensive repairs, but I don't want the car to break down on me again....
Also, a couple months ago, the check engine light went on a few times, but always went off within a day or two. Never did get it checked out because it didn't stay on long enough.
98 Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L OHV, 184K miles. Check engine light is on and code reads "P0411 - secondary air injection system - incorrect flow". This is my son's hand me down car and has a rather large exhaust leak that I plan on fixing. Could this code be related ?? I found out that the CEL has been on for quite sometime now and the car is due for emissions testing (state inspection) in October.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
Today my check engine light turned on, not sure why car is still running perfectly fine ( from what i can tell ) .
View 4 RepliesCheck engine light on and code is P1451. I have been told its one or all four things:
1. Gas cap,
2. Evap Canister vent solenoid,
3. Evap purge solenoid,
4. Evap canister.
I am trying to fix this problem on the Taurus. I have changed the Gas cap and this did not solve the problem. The other three things on the list: Are these three separate things? Or are they part of the same thing?
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 RepliesI started my Accent this a.m. The Check Engine Light is on and it runs really rough. I left it here at my apartment - it's that bad. It's got 27k miles.
The only other thing to note is that it's been very cold (for Northern California anyway) - around 45 degrees F right now.
First-time poster, haven't had any problems with the accent except for a sun visor that was replaced under warranty last week. All scheduled services done at the Hyundai dealer.
I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
View 6 RepliesMy Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesJust today I noticed an indicator showing up on my dashboard. The indicator shows the passenger side of the car, and a little screw coming out of it. I grabbed the giant book of boredom (Car manual) and the indicator is one for checking the gas cap and says once the gas cap is seated properly the light will go out.
I reseated the gas cap making sure it clicked when I turned it, and drove the car for about 45 minutes (My drive back home), and the light has continued to stay lit. What seems strange is that the check engine light is not showing up, which I know typically happens if the gas cap is not on properly.
Is there a sensor somewhere in the car that will cause that 'check gas cap' light to come on, and if so is it something I could find and replace myself, or am I better off going to a shop?
2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
View 7 RepliesWell another problem with my 11. It was just at the dealer getting the fuel pressure sensor replaced and then it started throwing a different check engine light. Dealer says it needs a new EGR cooler. They said there is a TSB for this. I don't have the exact code it was throwing right now. I haven't heard much about EGR coolers being a problem.
View 4 RepliesMy 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
View 3 Replies1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
I have a 2011 F250 6.7 that I bought in August of 2010. I have 35K miles on it and it has pretty much been trouble free once I got the firmware update for the shifting issues. I have the local dealership do all of my service work and all updates and service bulletins have been applied. Unfortunately on my way to work this morning the stupid Check Engine Light came on. The dealership has it now - hopefully I will know tomorrow.... I do think it has been running a little sluggish but I am not sure if that is the winter grade diesel (I use PM22-A in every single tank).
View 2 Replies