Taurus :: 2006 - Stutters When Shifting Into OD When Warm?
Feb 20, 2015
In a nutshell I have an '06 Taurus that is pretty mint -108k miles - but the other day when driving home the car stuttered at about 40 mph, just as it was shifting into Overdrive. My heart sank because I was afraid my transmission was busted. Continued until I got home.
The next morning I took the car out cold and nothing, car shifted like it was fresh from the factory. I said Ok, but I noticed the rpm needle wasn't steady with the tiniest fluctuation between 500 and 600 rpm while idle.
So, I go for a drive later and the car is driving and shifting well but there is a hum sound from the front passenger side of the rear of the engine compartment. The car is still driving and shifting well. Then, after driving enough to get the car up to temperature, the car stutters again at 40 mph and when shifting into Overdrive.
I've confirmed, over the past few days, the car runs perfectly when cold and the car only stutters when shifting into Overdrive when warm, as I can drive the car in low gear at any temperature all over town with no problems.
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MY 07 passat 2.0t stutters til it warms up. Took it in to vw and they replace the plugs and coils but it still does it. Engine light stays on says 2 cylinder misfires. Its stops after 5 mins but when it sits for awhile it starts again. it has 110,000 miles thought maybe it could be carbon buildup?
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2001 DOHC AC all of a sudden started blowing warm air when on max AC, not regular cabin air but warm air as if it is on heater mode. It has automatic climate control. I checked the charge and low side is 30psi and high side about 130 psi. Pipes in engine bay are sweating so cooling is occurring. The compressor cycles once or twice when I first turn the car on then just runs continuously. I put some charge in but it didn't do anything so I didn't want to overcharge it. I was thinking maybe stuck blend door but how would I check for that.
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I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
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I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
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Lately I've had some issues with the indicator(the orange needle telling you what gear you're in). Often when I start my car, it would let me shift gears but the indicator would not move. I've never once had a problem shifting into whichever gear I want(knock on wood). Usually when this happened I would bring the gear selector back to park then try shifting it again. This would fix the issue and it would bring the indicator with it, but I knew I had to do something about it eventually.
Last night when I was on my way home, I started my car and shifted into reverse to back out. It didn't move the indicator, and nothing I could do(no back to park then trying again) would work. I eventually decided I'd just count gears to get home, then I'd have it looked at.
At home I decided to do some research as to find out the issue, and I thought I'd found it. I removed the panel under the steering wheel to look at the thumb-adjustment. Many posts I read said it's likely broken and I may need a new one (Or to fix it with zip-ties or glue). When I found it though it had not been broken. The white housing and the black wheel were both working fine, the wire doesn't seem cut. However when I put the parking brake on so I can shift gears and see what it's doing, the gear selector moves but the wire just acquires slack in it. It's still attached and I can't see a break in it anywhere, however it may be broken inside the jacket. I tried turning the black thumb-adjusting wheel both ways and got no success from that. It moved a little once but that was it.
The indicator needs to be replaced?
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Rough shifts like my 99 GLS (93k mi.) suffers from. Why this would happen only in warm weather and stop and go driving and not when the outside temp is less than 60 degrees?
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I have a 94 Ford Crown Victoria with 180,000 miles. I got it from my grandmother in 2008. It's a great car a runs like a dream most of the time. Here's the problem though...for the past three summers, when the temperature outside gets above about 70 degrees, it starts giving me transmission problems. The shifting becomes rough, and it revs and jerks. It does this all summer and then when the weather cools off again it runs beautifully. Do I need a new transmission or is there something less expensive that I can do to fix this? Why does the transmission act up only in warm weather?
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My wife car is a Ford Taurus 2006. I wonder is this a popular problem, or what can I check.
The Point is that the AC is on always, no matter what that ac is working and throwing cool air all the time.
Only when the Air flow selections switch is off, then ac will go off.
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I have a 2006 Ford Taurus SE. Tried to start the car, it would turn over, but would not catch. I shut it off and tried again and it started right up. Is this a sign of trouble and needs something?
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Have a 2006 Ford Taurus that has two dead cylinders. Cylinder 3 and 4. Code says bad coil. I replaced with new coil and plugs. Same problem. Replaced wires and same problem.
Car has 65K. What is causing both cylinders to be dead? Pulled wires off while running and no spark on 3 and 4.
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I have a 2006 ford taurus that the dash started flickering about a month ago then it was fine for a couple weeks, yesterday it started flickering again, and then today it completely stopped working all gauges like car is off, check engine and battery light is on as well as oil light, car runs great regardless of cluster out or not. Air conditioning goes out when cluster goes out. I see many things on lights for the cluster but nothing for this and nothing with the a/c as well.
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I have a real puzzler on my hands. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a manual transmission. Its only got around 70K miles on it, since i was not driving it much for the first couple of years after purchase. Around the fall of last year, i was noticing that the car would make a creaking noise, and with time i was noticing it more. The "creaking" only is heard when the car comes to a stop and takes off (like in bumper to bumper traffic). So when the car is normal speed, i dont hear any noise regardless of putting on the brakes.
I have also noticed that the noise would only come during the afternoons (after my car had been sitting in a hot parking lot). In the morning, the car sounds normal and has no "funny" sounds, due the fact that I park my car in a cool garage overnight. The car drives normal no matter the heat conditions, but the noise can be very annoying. I have also recently noticed that you can sometimes hear this noise when people get in their seats of the car.
I have tried to take my car to a mechanic, but they can not find what is wrong. (Unfortunately, I have only been available to take the car in the mornings, so they of course can not hear a problem). The bearings all check out fine, and doesnt appear to be the shocks. My father also knows alot about cars, and this is really stumping him. The only that he noticed is that the engine mount was cracked, so we got that replaced. We were hoping that this would solve the problem, as he guessed that the "creak" was of the engine shifting. This did not solve the problem, but I am glad that we got it taken care of. As far as I can tell, the sound seems to be coming from the front center of the car, and not from a particular wheel.
During the winter here in Houston, I have not heard the noise, but now that its heating up; the "creak" has reared its ugly head again. What can i do?
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 A/C started blowing warm, so I checked all the fuses and they were good. Swapped the relays and still nothing so I check the wire to the compressor and it was reading 14v. This would lead me to believe the a/c clutch is bad, I didn't want to replace just the clutch incase my compressor craps out on me later on so I'm just replacing the whole thing now. My questions is how much oil does a new compressor need?
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OK all sensors and evac valve done. No codes being pulled. No check engine light. Car starts no problem in the morning or when its been sitting but when the car has been driven to temp. I will not restart and just keeps cranking, if it starts to start it shudders and dies. I am the original owner and its had any maintenance its needed.
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Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
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On my 2007 GS350 I have an annoying (or) normal problem where the Nav screen has to warm up a little, like an old tube radio, to full brightness when I start up the car on a colder morning. It takes about 15 to 20 seconds. My Lexus dealer first said it was normal but eventually gave up and replaced it. It still seems to be about the same.
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I noticed that my car rattles (the engine) when is warm, if the engine is cold by the morning nothing happens, is just after the engine is warm (working condition) some people say gas quality but I use Premium and always the same station, the rattle is after switch gears, just for one or two seconds (sounds like click! click! click!)
Could be that the cylinder head is blown? Oil "Quaker State High Millage" was change 3000 kilometers ago, sparks plugs brand new NGK Iridium IX at the same time...
My car: 07 Accent hatchback 127,000 kilo on it ....
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Having problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
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I have a weird issue on my 2008 Elantra. The heater starts blowing luke warm/cold air after running for about 1 hour or so and stays like that.
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